trickedcarbine

Oh damn, I didn’t even see this when I made my last post. Those are cool pipes. Did you sell them yet? I’d be interested in adding them to my stash.

Those are old Grand River Racing Suicide Inframes.

Most folks switch to a long rod on just about any build once the stock crank shits the bed. The theory is that the rod angle has less wear on the piston and the skirts stay together longer. Just takes a different piston combo. Just about every crank manufacturer has a 110 and 115 option, most opt for 115.

Fkn crunch time!

Driveline is making transmissions now. If you just want a Pro Mod, send it to Tyson. As far as the carbs, the 33’s might net a few hp up top. The 28’s will keep it very snappy and get right in the pipe. If you’ve already got the 33’s, it wouldn’t hurt to toss them on and take them for a ride to see what you think. But to jump to the big 38–39’s might make a handful more hp on the dyno, but would make it way less fun to ride.

Noice! Let me know if you ever wanna let go of it. Still sick I didn’t buy that Roll swinger back when I had the chance. Everyone is hoarding all the cool shit now.

The RPM is the superior axle out of any of the traditional style axles. However it’s the heaviest, but also the most durable. If you’re more of a duner/play rider and wanting to ditch the weight, look at the JJA axle set ups.

Bryan, The Ti stuff is cool, but you know the dollars spent to smiles had ratio probably isn’t there unless you take a year to race every weekend. Why not find a nice light Chromoly set up on the used market? The Turbo Chassis stock style and rigid rear set ups are pretty affordable when they pop up. Throw it together with as much Ti hardware as you can, and you’d have a pretty dominant set up once it’s dialed in. It would be an easy set up to switch between asphalt and sand/dirt.

Peak entertainment 🫠

👀

Asphalt scene is heating up. Guys are hauling the mail in 1/8th mile. Not as much 1/4 mile, but I think once 4.5’s are common and the crowd wants a new challenge, I bet you’ll see mire 1/4 mile racing take off.

Stroke makes more torque than bore does. A 10mm 68 bore cub at 465 will beat a 472 4mm 72 bore.

That a Timmy bumper or Sundahl?

EEK Needle

Man, that’s a cool build. After the last few seasons I haven’t even bothered prepping for the ice. Then this year I just got caught completely un prepared. I’ll make the plunge and have a couple rides together for next year. I really want to come out to Wisconsin to see how you guys run races. Not a fan of the D14 stuff here. It’s a lot of money and waiting around for a practice lap and a few laps for heats and a short main.

Jetting on the 28’s will be far different than what the 35’s would. That 421 should be in the 55/150-155 range on good pipes. Those PT Mids may not be the most adequate, so it’s possible they’ll just never move AFM near the potential of that cylinder. Just thinking about the max power potential of what those pipes are capable of, I would say they may just need something in the 140’s for a main. You mentioned you looked over electrical, have you checked the ground? Make sure the coil mount is super clean and plug caps are on the wires tight. If it’s just intermittent, I would look more at the CDI. Maybe swap it with a known good CDI.

Toe will be the biggest culprit up front is all the rest of it is in good shape.

What a sad plummet to the bottom. ECATV used to be a mega name in atv racing. Dave Gibson had awesome suspension parts he partnered on with K&K. So methed up. Stay off drugs kids.

Toss a 27.5 pilot and a 270 main at it. With out pipes it shouldn’t need much more main, but it’s worth seeing what it does bumped up.

How did I ever miss this gem?!

Need MOAR!

Stock pipes?

Cylinders are at the end of their life. Likely the bottom end is as well. It’s one thing to build a different top end for a motor you know, but it’s questionable in your case. Agreed it’s a waste of time to do anything but a 4mm. Either leave it as is, or build a 4mm set up. You really should go through the whole thing top to bottom. It’s not as bad as you think. The first time you split the cases, it all starts to make sense. Since you’re on the hunt for cylinder options, I’d say do a Driveline Assassin set up or a Serval Cub. Both super stout set ups that will handle hills and dunes. Driveline has very good pricing for packages like cylinders and all the supporting parts including the crank. Definitely ditch the 2/1 carb. You can even go back to stockers and get them jetted well, and it’ll be super snappy.

Hit up Noss Machine for the domes. But first, get it assembled and the cylinder torqued in place. Then measure your deck height. That’s the height of the edge of the piston at TDC to the deck of the cylinder. You can measure it a few ways. Get the most compression you can out of your desired fuel and add some timing and you should have decent bottom end. Tyson Racing or Joe Molinari can get you sorted on the Pro Mod.

All easily dealt with. Lotta cases get blasted. If the bearing surfaces aren’t physically altered other than blasting, I don’t think there will be issues. Maybe a dab of loctite or sealant on the bearing when it goes in if anything. Threads are an easy fix with a tap and dye. Super common.