trickedcarbine

Nope, sure can't. Link doesn't work on my I phone. So again I ask.... Will I be able to view the full version from my mobile phone?

So.... Will a fella be able to use the full version from a phone?

Sent you a text to the number posted money can be sent when I get out of work

Hmm, just Paid the 1.99 for the ISP App and it is still bogus....... No more Premium for me.

Yeah, I've only got mobile access and I hate the mobile formats for everything so it is nice when you can use the links for full version. I no longer use the Tippmann forums due to them no longer allowing full version access although there is a link. Now BHQ no longer allows me acces to full version even though there is a bogus link for it. Glad this happened before I upped my subscription to Premium again for this year.

UPDATE: This thread needs to be read from page one. Slingshot tuning: The sling shots are cool in their own way, but in my opinion they are more for trail/play bikes until someone comes up with an actual quick change cover that allows fast track side adjustments. I chose to run the Slingshot due to its increased rotating mass which really helps with crank momentum out of turns for flat track. They are pretty adjustable but you have to be creative and patient. My newest trick has been finding proper sized balls that are made from different materials for different weights. So far I have found aluminum, zinc, steel, and ceramic. The ceramic sketch me out and I worry about them breaking down and releasing residue throughout the clutch

Ok, after seeing your first post and even the check list that you just made the one thing that jumps out at me is your plug color! 170 is pretty rich and you are getting grey plugs. Typically a sign of over heating. If I were you, I wouldn't dare ride that thing with out doing a Leak down test. You could try the brake cleaner or soldering torch gas around all the seals and gaskets while it's running, but a true leak down will be your best bet. Grey plugs mean bad news.

He wound up fiddling with some long travel Honda shocks that never really worked out. He just sold em for a set of the new long travel 450r shocks but time is sparse!

No a high revving motor won't win circle track races. Well maybe if pistons and clutches were new every race. That shit would destroy cranks. I have been so apprehensive about a 10 mil because a few builders who are familiar with flat track racing said the cranks just not be up to the task of 20 lap races strung out to 10,000 rpm. But me and Jim were talking about doing a 10 mil and getting it to peak around 9,500. Maybe I will have a second set of domes made so I can run way lower compression on the big ovals with less timing to keep the crank together while really revving it out. Dunno. No big half mile tracks out here any way....

Hey I am a flat track ice racer out of Michigan so I know what you are after. I definitely think there are great advantages to the PV motors but as you mentioned they still seem to take a while to really come alive. Big Red has a nice motor but it is not like those PV's actually create more bottom end on that particular set up, they more or less make the abrupt delivery of the power become smoother which is nice out of the turn on blue groove clay or powdery topped ice tracks. I really think that the more research I do that a properly set up big serval is the ticket. I am seeing guys doing things with them to get more front side curve then an equally sized cheetah will produce with only a slight sacrifice to the top end. And in our kind of racing covering ground faster out of the turn means being first in to the next turn. Hence you wanting the roll on power. On that note, I really don't think you will find any pipe to get you going any earlier then the Pro Circuits will. However those pipes will look good on a dyno, yet in the real world they will become totally heat saturated and not transfer the heat nearly enough to let your big serval do its thing. A 7mm super serval is a pretty big motor and I am designing my new set up around the same motor maybe even a 10mm. This is where I ask exactly what your set up is? I know you don't wanna hear it but under true oval race conditions you are gonna need a big inframe pipe. With just a little porting you can have it designed to come on smoother and even earlier. There are a handful of builders doing it. But do your research and make sure if you do go that route that they have built that style of motor and actually raced it. Not just sent a racer a dune port(HJR, FAST). Then comes in to play the proper domes, with a bigger in frame you should be using compression and race gas or even alky if you are a warm weather racer. These servals seem to really do well around 165psi cranking. Then you can throw timing at it. With he better fuel the motor will handle it and resist detonation. Start around 7 degrees and work from there. Back when guys out in the north west were milling cubs down to create serval type cylinders, they were throwing as much as 10 degrees at them so it can be done. Don't be a pussy with the fuel, you spent all that money on the motor don't be cheap now! Next, learn to gear that thing! That is a totally different motor combo then what most guys are running for our style of racing. So duners and drag racers can only make UNEDUCATED guesses. You will have to ride the thing and really figure it out. I don't know your experience, but I've been ice racing since my teen years and I have found that grabbing the brake is a momentum and RPM KILLER! A motor that size should have a lock up and if you give it the compression you should be able to take advantage of engine braking by gearing it so that as you approach the turn at WOT all you need to do is literally yank the clutch drop ONE gear let the clutch go and let the bike do its thing and set up. IE. as soon as you let the clutch out the bike should slow a touch and begin to pitch sideways all the while staying on the pipe. As soon as the bike finishes pitching, full throttle that bitch! Come off the apex and grab your gear maybe two but if it is two you are on a bigger track and might need to gear differently. If you were willing to read what I said, I have a set of Original Rockets you could play with on the Dyno. You pay the freight both ways and I must have a deposit or copy of your info, something...... You can play with them for a week and then I need to get back to testing. If you think the Shearer pipes aren't doing it for you these might. Like I said, you might not see it on a short run on a dyno, but once you are hot lapping that thing it is a total different ball game. We are litterally drag racing these things twice a lap with 3/4-full throttle bursts in between. So a pro circuit on your bigger bike may not play to well after 4-5 laps. My bike is an 80hp set up but probably makes a few less on the rockets but it seems to make more usable power on them then the shearers with my Passion 12 port/4mil short track motor. If you like them I know a couple fellas you can get a set from. You might be surprised. Loco took a 4mm serval with rockets and won a hill climbing event, so they have some grunt. PM me and let me know. Maybe get me a contact number? Brett

Port them and if you like them enough nikasil them when it finally goes. Yeah it is expensive, but if you don't wanna buy new cylinders and port those, and change the whole set up again.....

Jim really is a great guy and I am glad to see him full time in the shop now. He really does stand behind his product and when he says he'll make it right, he does! I am getting ready to start my ice season up and financially I am ready to travel so I am getting ready to really see what this passion motor of mine can really do!

Only seen it one time and it was on a blaster. Cause: over torquing on assembly. That whole motor needs to be torn down and properly cleaned and rebuilt. Splitting cases is no big deal. Once you open it up it is literally 2 trans clusters and a crank. Get a clymer manual and you're good

Teuche' my good man. Those look pretty nice and it seems that you guys really put some time in to the transfers and that is where most skimp. I always give props to a fella looking to figure this shit out. If banshees are gonna continue to thrive we need to make sure people continue to learn new things by experimenting. One day guys like Kevin, Jeff, or Cameron are gonna wake up and decide its time to throw in the towell and hit retirement.

I know with some of the Mikuni carbs they have different configurations for a particular carb such as angled fuel nipples, air screw location, end even idle screw. Is it possible to find a 35mm PWK with a right hand idle adjuster and air screw? Maybe modify it and tig weld the old holes? I could have sworn that I have at least saw a kit for re tapping the idle screw on to the right side, can't find it anywhere. Thanks for any input

I think a wise man just recently said great video except for the music..... Haha! You're a dad now, it's time to put down the slim shady. On a serious note, that is a fucking sweet hybrid! It's so bad ass it eats fuel, grass, dirt, and human legs. Hope to see that new bike doing well in the future to.

Uhh, it's a panini press...... Jeez!

Agreed, so many people think that just because a builder reccomended something that it is impossible to be wrong. Thats why we need to know what we are looking at and what to check on assembly. The only absolute sure fire way for them to be flawless is to have the cases, crank & piston combo, and the cylinders in hand.

What kind of riding will you be doing with this build?

Thanks Brandon. Now you got my gerbal wheel spinnin' and I'm trying to come up with other valuable questions.

Huh, that's funny. Wasn't it one of Matt's new customers (possum) that said Matt thinks every one in Michigan is a bunch of fucking morons and that no one here knows how to do shit, make shit, tune shit? Yet there he is runnin' good ol' Michigan product. Thanks Matt, for learning where to get the good shit and realizing that some fucking cholo in the back room of a greasy machine shop isn't gonna make you a quality part. Now, let's talk about that mark up......... Haha!

Another question I am pondering. I have heard a little info on this but can no longer find it. What exactly happens to the motor with say a wider squish band that is on the tight .045 side and a dome that has a wide squish with a looser clearance, say .060? Then also a dome that is to be considered a narrow squish band on both the tighter and looser side?

Simply put, RATH! You can sit around and wait for a decent bar to pop up here and there in the for sale section, but if you want the best bar on the market it is worth it to go straight to rath and get it. Mine is way nicer then the LSR or the Dura Blue and I have played with both of those.

Did you two just have a civil make up moment?

A few weeks back I decided it was time for a set of straight cuts and happened to find out rodger had a set. Only a few quick messages and it was boxed up and on its way ASAP with notification from rodger. Turns out they weren't a matched set as they were bought used on his end as well. All I had to do was inform him they weren't quite right and he promptly made the refund with out a single bitchy thing to say. Great guy, stood behind his sale even when it didn't benefit him. I hope to be able to deal with rodger in the future. Thank you Rodger (alcohalbanshee)