trickedcarbine

As far as the Hinson gears on the PE/Magnum basket, the problem is the actual height of the bosses on the back side of the basket where you screw the backing plate on. They just need a bit of grinding to get through the hard annodizing and then put some 220 grit on a granite top or glass. Move the part in an figure 8 till the gear set will fit tight. Let me know if you need more details. If it were me I would just pony up for the basket that goes with your gear set.

My gears were off the "Billit Proof" basket I got from STROKING. They were cushioned not sprung. I guess your situation is a bit different. You will have to get the actual spring basket from Hinson to run those. I have seen guys machine the same gear set you have to make them work, but that requires access to the right equipment.

Totally doable. One thing I just encountered was mounting a set of hinsons on to my PE/Magnum Billit basket, was that the bosses which hold the cushions and screws for the backing plate were about 10 thousandths to tall. So it took a little 220 grit on the granite block to get it milled down.

I've always avoided a sale with the illiterate

190 in my bitch

Keihins and Mikunis are the standard because of availability, price, and so the japs have been putting them on everything with two and 4 wheels for many decades. What people need to realize is that there is still more technology out there and we need to be open minded and understand that they need to shut their mouths about it until they have proof that a new product is garbage. BTW, The smart carb has been proven in the mountains of Colorado and has been to Pikes Peak with GREAT results. http://www.powerapt.com/ Also, when Lectrons hit the market, everybody talked shit because they were a foreign concept. Now they are probably one of the most dominant carbs in racing.

Look for a tire that has a big blocky type of profile and remove every other row or lugs. If its loose dirt or gravel you can try some paddles, but when I used to do gravel pit riding I found the taller tires with every other row cut to be my favorite. There are a few guys who have a nice collection of trophys with that set up, so it's probably worth a try. As far as your carbs I would try to run something in the 38mm range. You could definitely go bigger, but you will lose a bit of response and will probably suffer a bit when chopping in and out of the throttle. And the pipes, definitely need to call CPI and shearer. I personally don't know much about the big bore pipes and and how they compare. Maybe someone who has ran both will chime in. Whatever the out come, I would start out with whichever would give your set up more torque. I'd assume that whoever your builder is should be able to tell you the differences in the pipes for your combo and how they will act. If not, it's probably time for another builder.

Remind me to not bank on you while I lay in pieces on a hill.

RetardedCracker520 "If you wanna run pump gas I recommend a serval. If race gas is ok a cub is prob better. What? The cylinder has nothing to do with fuel used to run it!! Compression & Timing are the only things that affect the burn characteristics required to not detonate! crazycracker" You are RE-FUCKING-TARDED! There are several reasons to make that determination based on the cylinder type. If you set up the cub properly it can make more power across the board, but it needs the compression and timing to do so as well as proper domes and porting. Which in the end would give you more then any serval would. I'm not the builder but that is only the brief break down of it and I'm just not sure you grasp where Cam was going with that, but you should definitely pump your brakes and investigate further in to what it is he means before you get gutted on here.

Pretty cool if it's for lawn mower racing type shit. I was once fabbing a racing tractor by grafting the rear swinger section and a arm sections on to a simplicity tractor. We were gonna throw a cbr F4i 600 motor in but the motor was sold and the project was scrapped. That shit right there is really cool!

The groove is for the half clip. It is a common practice to double up that Clip on Higher output motors and there are even a few places you can get a full wrap around C clip that works.

Buy from reputable sources. Steer clear of the " this is my first post, bt it's in the for sale section" type of guys. I have never been burned on here. Even when something wasn't quite right I confided in the seller about a possible issue and we agreed to have a knowledgable third party inspect the goods and was immediately given my money back. I would even buy from him again(alcohalbanshee)

They can do some cast stuff, but i believe parts are typically tumbled first

Yessir......

You need more octane then that if the motor is making that kind of compression. The motor will actually create a little more compression as the rings seat as well. 91 octane ain't gonna cut it. Shaving the head will get you torque, but you need to make sure you give it enough octane so it won't detonate. Especially if you are adding timing as well. If you want to run pump fuel, send the head out to a reputable builder and have it chambered. You would even be surprised at the gains proper domes/chambers would bring you. You could even just ditch the head and order a cool head and domes from a builder.

Thanks for the comments fellas. As far as hose starting gate clamp devices, they do work. At least the ones I had for an old KX 125 that I raced as a kid. They seem to help with the weight transfer issues some set ups can have, but I'm not sure that is something i have any problem with after switching to the -2 swinger. The bike literally became a new animal after that. Definitely got it to the point where I no longer need to let off much if at all, and I think a little more work on the rear shock set up will help

Ha! Doesn't look like it but I actually started out farther up. Thing gets out from under a fella when you launch it hard.

For sure Slower, I think I am gonna give the limiter a shot.

I have only got 10 gallons through the new set up and am constantly learning it's capabilities. This motor from Jim fucking goes! I hear a lot of guys knock him but it runs every it as hard as my previous big bore. Any who, I definitely sit way up on the tank due to the -2 swinger. It helps but the front still pulls up hard so I'm trying to play with the clutch a bit. I took the bike out to our local sand drag event to see what this thing really does under traction and after 20 passes or so got my seating position perfect. So far this is about where my happy medium is but I feel that if I do a little more shock/clutch tuning to keep the front down I can get it through he gears faster.

I never had a problem with Sidewinder but I bought their top of the line sprocket. I only ran it for 6 seasons on a big bore motor so I guess that might be junk...... Seriously, they do have good stuff but it is over priced and their customer service is hit or miss I have recently destroyed tusk and Moose sprockets in a day and have since then moved on to PBI sprockets & Sun Star which seem to be proven products

Hey fellas, I'm curious as to what technique seems to pull the better 60ft times. I am only looking for the hole shot in flat track and ice racing, but figured you drag guys are the ones with the times slips to really validate what works. I usually do OK but think there is more in it. First: the good ol' fashioned rev it up and dump the clutch...... Man it just feels like it is to violent and blows the tires off and it seems harder on parts. I am learning to tune my clutch to smooth all that out pretty good and I like the idea of a consistant procedure and relying on my set up to just take care of it all. Second: standard Moto Cross hole shot. Load the bike up on the front brake and let her rip. feather the clutch on the way out to keep the front end under control. This seems to feel much smoother, but I just can't believe it is as fast. Any body have any thing different they do that they know to be proven?

Pm me with details as I am looking for a mule bike

I have seen a guy in Mississippi Donna auxilary radiator under the nose before and I think it was the guy who did your motor. It was when there were very little options in the aftermarket radiator market. What he did was install a slightly modified 250r three wheeler radiator in between the rails under the nose to add cooling capacity. I did the mod years ago and it did work but newer radiators are much better. Either way, that guy had good ideas for his time, but his mouth was equally as big.

They are good pipes. Made by Shearer but to the specs from Vito's. They were a little more trail friendly then the shearers and IMO they ran similar to the CPI pipes.

-Umm, direct drive needs an expensive side cover -Mattoon sells a good lock up alone but you can use their stock modded covers or expensive DD style -Gigot is a slingshot that fits under the stock cover with very little nub modification but is pricey -DriveLine is another slingshot style that fits under the stock cover and has sweet price to boot What works for you? I run the Driveline unit, love it!