trickedcarbine

Jeff at fast will probably just mod your shaft for being a BHQ member

88 mph? So like 10/38 on the sprockets? Then I can travel time?

Hint: call some one else!

Yeah, bead locks seem a little over kill. Mark your tire to rim with a paint pen, you'll know if it's slipping if the marks move. But I've seen asphalt bikes run 14mm DM's and not need em. However, if you just want some. Call wicked racing. They have some nice ones

While you are in there do everything you can. -Billit basket -Cushions -Pancake Bearing -New hub washer and but -Shift star, buy one or mod yours -Shift Shaft mod, or get it from Jeff -Shift Pro -Adjust the Eccentric screw Then you can just be done with it. I'm done with the days of constantly going in and out of my clutch. Till the new drag build at least.

Go with the 33's and be done. At least till you want even more.

Last one I bought was mattoon. But my local fella at chariot was not in stock. The mattoon piece is very nice

Can I just use the regular old halogen fluid in my blinkers or will it burn them out?

That is the RM stator. You can get a Billit plate for under 50 bucks. Mattoon, Chariot, Pro Design, RDZ, etc.

Yeah, it had plenty of compression. You could just keep it simple and set it up with the 66mm. But, if it were me, I'd go for the 68mm+ set up. It will take more work but be worth it. You need to make sure the deck is prepped and true. Machine the cylinders and ONE piece head for O-rings like you see on the race cars. Maybe even give TDR a call for their one piece girdle head. I did finally get mine to stay sealed up with a stock head machined head and a Special TDR Big Bore gasket with metallic compression rings in it. But if I ever touch those cylinders again I'm doing the metallic o rings

I had a buddy complaining about people who buy sweet looking hard annodized rockers for their hot rods when all they do is cover them with valve covers. He bought the cheap o shit online, and ran threw them at the woodward dream cruise. Week later he to bought those bad ass purple rockers him self. Been in that motor for 9 years pass after pass, mile after mile.

The only acceptable cast plate to run is the slOEM plate. There are plenty of manufacturers making plates now so the days of the $95.00 pro design plate are gone. Running cast aftermarket plates just leaves room for disaster! The only user error is agreeing to run one. A few years ago I did a build and I used the whole RM package and it totally vibrated it self apart even with LOCTITE and proper torque spec. You can see in the photos where the plate originally came apart. The debacle costed me a new stator, plate, and flywheel.

Nope, KY just makes the gears slip around. Dang!

So I jerk off on it or do I use the KY to slip it in? I find that spit usually gets me in any where no matter how tight it is, but ky in a pinch helps to, I'll try it.

Aftermarkets! Tons of good deals in the for sale section.

TDR has the best deals on the WSM stuff

About a year ago there was a guy on eBay that sold cover inserts for DD, Mattoon, Trinity, and SFB. From what I remember they were all brand specific. But he sold his clear and tinted inserts for pretty good prices. Maybe give the 100 pages of "banshee clutch" results a browse.

Things were getting a little slow around here so I thought I'd ask about why I can't get the Red Power Band to install properly from my crank to transmission. I keep using the ultra stretcher that comes with it, but it won't go all the way around my primary gears. What gives? http://www.planetash.net/gos/powerbands.html

Daj is on the right track

187ish is where my old big bore trail motor was at. Remember with the added CC's you can keep the exhaust up a bit more because the displacement will carry it down low. Also, before you go doing this..... I suggest a stock machined head or one of the single piece heads to keep the big bore sealed up. That or set up at 66mm. Big bores are a fucking cunt to keep sealed up unless they are designed for a totally different head. I will personally never in my life build another big bore motor in the stock head stud pattern. Never! I rebuilt it 3 times a season and every time it was coolant leaking in the cylinder related. Let's just say that coolant is not very good two stroke lube.

LT arms? If so, Hell Yeah!

Bitchin!

Cams seemed to be going together nicely, and that YFRZ was pretty nice

Another nice assembly tip: leave the jugs just loose and step torque the head then snug the jugs down

It is easy when you first start out. But once you begin making money off another company's logo you are asking for a shit storm