trickedcarbine

Never thought of the starting fluid washing all the lube away, but I see tons of alky guys firing their bikes that way. Your concept makes sense, but it's how a lot of big names bypass the ol' kick and pray.

A timing plate is a pretty cheap mod with a pretty good performance gain.

Should be tight

6 psi for 15 mins? Definitely carbs! Go through them like a detective. Also try domes from a good builder. Will totally be worth it

Yes, nicasil if they are ported nicely.

Those are nice for those prices! Sick garage btw.

Hmm, I'm lighting race fuel with out an issue. Make sure you have given it a proper jetting set up. And the little trick that RRL mentioned helps. Just a few ful slow kicks to get it to draw fuel in with the throttle pegged. Then let off and kick her over like normal. Worked on all my motors that way for ice racing. If not, get out the ether!

Better pic of the brembo twin conversion. They were on Ducati monsters and can be had for about 75-80 bucks

Mike Teagan is the owner of Magnum and distributes it through his place magic http://www.dirt-deals.com/

The secret is his choice in FZR1000 frictions. Jeff hasn't done any actual cylinder work for me, but his sales and service is always amazing and super prompt!

Didn't even know Toomey ever hung around here. Good to see ya

Just busting your balls. Keep the second one under a tarp

Bummer, I tried to check the archive on it but phone wont let me page through it. Shit like this just makes me sick!

One other possibility.... I have had magnum baskets that the bosses for the bolts needed a touch of machining. I mounted 3 sets of gears on it and fresh cushions and still had slop. So I put a piece of 80 grit on my granite bench top and ran the figure 8 pattern to get through the hard annodizing. Then hit it with 220 grit till I pulled .025 off it. Slapped my gears on it again and it was nice and tight

Uh oh! Wife is gonna be so pissed!

In my opinion...... Jim really is a pretty good engine builder. A lot of folks forget that. A few years ago most "site sponsors were having any of their dome needs taken care of by David Noss as it was known that he was putting out some of the best domes. Any one know who taught David Noss how to do domes?..... Any one? However Jim has teamed up with one of the least business savy, big mouthed individuals known to our particular genre of sport. I applaud their effort in trying to create something new that is not only a top quality product but keeping performance in mind as well. That last part is where the pipe falls short. I have heard positive results, but they are from sources that not every one wants to trust fully. I really feel that had Jim been full time on the engine program and putting more R&D in to the pipe design before an "Official" release, I think it would have went a lot more differently. They should have not made boastful claims and been a little more humble and I bet it would have made this whole situation a lot more different then it is. Just a shame when you see a builder with a killer reputation wind up nose diving in to the concrete because of their company. For the record: Not nut swinging Jim, but he has given me the most potent 4 mil stock cyl bike I've ever rode short of a full drag bike. He doesn't advocate the use of their pipe for every motor and has even reccomended "Run the shearer pipes on that bike Brett, maybe a CPI." So to say Jim is as snake is a bit grimy. Just wanna be clear who the thread is coming from so that a decent guy doesn't get stuck burning with this goon

Oh forgot, the tires! The 23" up front and 22" rear is premium for gncc type riding. Heavy ply, proper knobby, and TIRE BALLS! They rock in that riding. They will even save your ass if a tire does blow out. Maybe bead locks if you have the dollars.... Belly plate is a must. And don't overlook cooling. A taller seat might be nice. Handle bars, stem, and levers that are more ergonomic as well as modded brake and shifter. Pegs to keep you located. Best suspension you can buy!

Your friend is ass up with that trinity manifold. Your twin 28's are definitely the hot ticket. There is a 2/1 manifold that does work though.... It is off a Yamaha 440 Exciter and requires a touch of work. It also requires a carb in the 39mm + range.

Stick with a PWK from keihin. Great performer, and it is fairly easy to learn tuning on. There are also tons of guys on here who have used those carbs on infinite combos and will be more then willing to help you sort your combo out if ya ask the right way.

Michigan ice racer here. I run either my Mechanix "Winter Armor" gloves or I love to use Deer Skin leather work gloves. The deer skin are hard to come by sometimes depending on your location but they are nice for staying dry and they keep all the shredded ice at bay if I get stuck in traffic. There are a lot of good snocross gloves, but they are expensive as hell!

Joe?........

Jeezus! Why Gary? I was always a fan of the Passion Racing program, but then he(JIM) teamed up with one of the biggest mouths in our industry. I really feel that the reputation of Passion Racing would still be in tact had he not partnered with this yahoo..... Seriously Gary, stop talking and load the trailers and get your ass out west and do some racing. The way you call people out is a little brazen since it has zero effort behind it. You do realize that had you just held off on releasing the pipes or even just said you had a new design that you wanted people to help R&D and not made the outrageous claims, your reputation would still be in tact. Instead you choose to do this wacky game of keyboard racing. Load up! Get racing!

DIGITRON! Done....

Blaster shock is 14 inches 300 ex shock is 13 Both are readily available and cheap on eBay. Take your shocks off and put a floor jack or blocks under the bike. Adjust it to where you shock eye holes are at both of those lengths and decide which is for you. As far as the R6 shock it is fine, but really stiff unless it's on a longer drag style swing arm. It is a lot more headache to get bushings or machine it opposed to just grabbing up a greasable lowering link for the rear.

You could always nicasil the sleeves and they will last a long time!