camatv

let alone the fact that the domes have a super wide squish band. and probably cc pretty low...

have fun! take lots o pics

i stretched them all the way out. for more midrange. motor still revv's ok but current setup is still pretty stock porting numbers. rode the bike again and the more i ride it the more i like the single carb bike gets really great mileage now. i'm going to try and get my 40mm lectron on it soon. hope the weather holds so i can run it more.

import grey, mega grey, use OEM crank seals.

with mine the plastic is raised up and allows a lot of air in there overall. but its really hard to tell. i DID have a blingstar bumper on it and it would get really hot. after trying a few things and having the same issues i removed the bumper and it cooled right down. even slow trails its fine now. i think the big plate with holes in it were slowing it down too much. when the bike is in a wheelie the nose scoops up air.. BUT the way you did the oem i was going to do. i would cut channels in the oe plastic and then maybe cut out the hood also. thats what i meant by another yamaha product nose section cover. they have rad cuts in them already and should look nice.. i'm going to try that on the next one. on remaking the upper a-arm maybe a j- arm type setup? just rember the ball joint needs to be in the same place it is now. moving it at all is going to change steering geo and fuck a bunch of stuff up.

i stopped using gaskets on the intakes about 2 years ago. right after i started using leakdown tester a LOT... i just straight import grey, mega grey, hondabond, yamabond, grey etc whatever you use.. and naysayers,, you just sealed the complete case together metal to metal.. why is this any different its leaking into the threads from the inside of the intake there is a tenny tiny bridge between the inside of the intake to the threaded area. yours is probably cracked or some ported screwed it up. i see it a lot on ported, or overly tightened cylinders or threads filled with rtv or some sort of sealer

wish i could have gone! next weekend!

i have some out frame sheare big bore's but they are kinda whooped up some. if you want to sell those pipes you have there i'd like to buy them. like to see silencers tho. they are old ass pipes tho. the cylinders have a bunch of work on them also.

just buy the hinson inners for the 8 plate setup. untill chariot makes some for maybe a 10 plate ( HINT HINT!!) easiset way to get an 8 in there i have personally blown steel backing plates off older hinsons many times i dont know why ANYONE would try to use alluminum.. what a joke. this basket i'm sure will hold up to all kinds of abuse !

i'm stuck with LRD right now. i'd prefer SLP, t6 or snipers if it was more agressive..

in sand if i'm riding it it will stretch the shit out of it. i have one of those cheapo red chains in my garage took off a bike after one ride it stretched so far it was out of adjustment. those are some trash!!

DAMN talk about bringing up the past! neat topic tho..

all chain manu's have differnt styles of chain there are budget 520's and high end high bucko 520's the only way to know is the read your tensile strength numbers you need at LEAST a 7900 lbs chain on a stocker if you want it to live. i usually run the rk mxz3 and 4 and those have worked great i think they are a 8900- 9300? chain BUT they are not o-ring chain. i race dunes. just put a zzz on my hybrid and its doing good its a high strength chain also. if you keep tossing chains you need to check your alignment and looseness and if all the guides are in place..

soooo... we all gay meth heads with 2 assholes ( cause we so GAY) and like fuckin our 12 year old sisters that need ridallin and a better sense of direction. damn i KNEW something was wrong with all you fucks!!! i'm outa here just like shit flying through 2 assholes yeoza!

OH FUCK i just read the whole thread.... dude just go to ebay put in "banshee" and buy what you like.. start assembling the bike of your dreams.

ok so i stopped at page 1.. sell the 06 buy a set of cases. get a yfz 450 frame put the banshee motor in the frame buy all the mx parts you can afford for the yfz. go jumpin. i'd sell mine for 8900

when i swap out this motor soon for the fully ported midrange engine i'm working on i will try the intake again. it gets way better mileage now also. it seems the curve into the reeds is ok. i had to fit a very short air filter to get it all in there. its not ideal and the duals work better on the yfz as far as overall fit in my past experience the graydon's length helped out a lot but i have never attempted to use the exciter setup. and since its kinda longer probably never will. i am thinking of either boring this carb to a 40 or getting a 40/44 lectron or something along those lines.

elephant farts lol!!

why not head over to your local machinist shop an just have them mill off those vanes.. then port match intakes to the v fose reeds..??? why no suggestions like that..

nice combo.

hell JD just lase up a set of stainless and make a "kit!!

finally some nice input on real world things!! the no business interest at all is what gets a lot of these projects up and rolling in all reality.. some parts can be overthought way to much and cause way to much unecessary issues. thats what happened when i was trying to get the last drum setup done. then came up with the 3 piece design. which would have worked great and been heat treat able easily. relativle low costs i think. BUT i dont work in any kind of manufacturing plant or some sort of primary business where i have access to the things i wold need to do this. plus not to many peeps around here are really interested in doing this type of thing. maybe brandon and i should meet up and talk about the override drum?? mull is a great company to deal with and anytime someone asks what to use if they dont want a star cut i refer them to mull star, detent bearing"kit" and also his impeller. most of the peeps i do trans work with usually supply the parts themselves after i recomend them. even though i'm about an hour away from mull LOL>..

shift star pins are a smidge short. the shaft is the real issue. its made of weak steel plate and flexes when being shifted. if the shaft is riding on the edges of the pins due to shit installation and/ or wear on the spacers and the cover as to allow the shaft to move back and forth in the case it makes it even worse.. when shifting they slide off the pins and miss a shift. OR the trans is bound and that happens also. a ratchet shift conversion would be the ultimate. an already ready to go override drum would be a great idear. shift star with correct placement of pin's and cuts for the1-5 n down and 6 speed N down would be great. case hardened gears with the angles already done on them would be killer also. the costs of all of this would be astronomical i'm sure. if the drum could be setup in a 1-5 combo and a 1-6 combo that would be nice. if it would cost less than 100 bucks with a star i think they would sell well. getting a good pattern for the override would be the tricky part. there are a ton of total shit verisons of setting N in place and ratcheting or clattering while in neutral or moving without running are common with those. i have a bulletproof pattern for the 1-5 n down that works much better than any other version i have used. but i'm not going to just publicly put it on here. . it would not have to be solid i have developed a 3 piece design that i think could be done relativley reasonable on costs. i just have no access to a cnc that can do it. billet basket like the HINSON straight cut spring loaded would be nice. 4 bolt 5/16 or 8mm bolts using spring cusion ?> idle gear with actual bearing that fits stock input shaft would be nice.. ( i have already done) clutch basket with bearing support instead of a bushing would be nice. (also i have already done in a real bearing support with bushing alignment but requires machining the basket gear) unlike others where only half the bearing is actually spinning on something and the rest can cause problems.. just some idea's.. i have talked with other " machinists and cnc guys about these things also. but after the real world time frame sets inplace and the relative low profit margin and low ROI they usually get dropped or abandoned for more profitable stuff...

yea.