Jereme6655

its baically a cheetah cub with trail port timings.......it doesn't necessarily come in a 421.....its just the most common size. you can get it from stock stroke to +4mil to i believe a +7mil now....

sounds like someone got a little butt-hurt......

JJ is correct. The groove farthest out is for the lip on your seals. The groove around the bearing seat is there for the c-clip.....basically it is there to act as a thrust washer ( i believe) and keep the crank from walking side to side in the cases. I know that when i split my cases last winter and test fit my crank and everything......there WERE a few times that clip would get hung up on the bearing and go with the crank when i would pull it out. Look at your old crank and see if its on there.....if not you can order them.....pretty sure Jeff from FAST carries them in stock. im sure kevin at HJR carries them too...

how about rotating the motor over with the kickstarter nice and easy.....while your giving it some love with a rubber mallet....

lapping a flywheel is what is done to ensure a "as close to perfect fit as possible." There are products out there that are called lapping compound.....basically it is a gritty paste that you apply to the inside of the flywheel or the shaft (without the key) and then you twist the flywheel on the shaft. when i say twist i mean you want to purposely have the shaft stay stationary while you twist it back and forth. What it does is very slightly machine off a very small amount to knock down the high spots.....which will allow the flywheel to fully seat itself on the shaft for optimal surface contact.

id say get some bigger carbs. While you would see more power out of a 4mil....you would then be limited by the stock carbs.....they would be holding you back then. How about using the left over mad money on a quality suspension like +2+1 arms and also some works or elka shocks.... suspension can make you just as fast if not faster than stock suspenion banshees.

also what you may want to consider is whether you want to run race gas, alky or just premium pump gas. If you want to stay with Pump gas then i'd suggest the new serval setups as they can reach 80hp while still running off the pump....

the J-arms are still good suspensions..... yes they ARE lighter.....that's why alot of guys wind up liking them for more of a drag style platform. Also the brakes are slightly bigger and they take different pads than the later model bikes.......i don't know they're availability so that could play a factor into turning it into a racer.

The piston on the left looks identical to my OEM pistons that I pulled out of my bike. Which are cast namura pistons...

Not to mention.....who needs an oil control ring on a 2stroke.....its pointless cause there oil in your oil/fuel charge both on top AND under the pistons. Either way just solve the problem by getting good quality pistons......Wiesco pro-lites

nope....that is absolutely not correct. its should have full power right out of the box.

i will definately be gettin one of the WANTED shirts when you make those.......things are sweet....

Doing a plug chop is the best way to dial in your jetting. As far as the pipe situation......i'd check with NYUK.......he deals in parts on here and i know for a fact on here that he has shipped parts all the way to Australia. He's an honest guy to deal with and he's not going to rip you off... alot of people on here can vouch for him....

Call Jeff at FAST RACING.....he's usually got some good used ones in stock for this reason. i THINK he charges around $20 for them.....

describe the problem that your having and we can see if we are able to help and see if we can give you some tips....

modified shift star, modified shift shaft, maybe an pro-shift arm and spring......depending how much power you eventually plan on making you may want to get your trans cut by a sponsor to allow it to engage better (with higher powered bikes they stock trans will suddenly give you a "false neutral" because the dogs in the trans can't mesh that fast)

J-ARM.....he has a J-ARM frame.........so unless he wants to try and do an a-arm conversion to his old frame........then a-arms will not work for him. my suggestion is to look at the forsale section.....or talk to NYUK. He may have some J's kickin around in his garage or somewhere....

a compression tester is around $30 and a leakdown tester you can build for less than $10.......so for $40 you can have 2 new tools to throw into your tool box and be used whenever the need arrives. Could there be a possibility that you put the pistons in backwards? did you just get the cylinders bored and honed and installed new pistons?

nice bikes! awsome that people still rock out the old school rides..... and welcome to the hq!

look at your piston domes....are they starting to look slightly pitted? if so then that was the detonation from not enough octane. also were they cast or forged pistons? always let the bike warm up alot before you ride it? alot of people have skirts break off because they either have been re-ringing their motor alot (and not checking the cylinder bore for being egg shaped) or trying to make too much power for a 110 rod. 17cc domes are pretty freaking small man......that alone will cause issues if your not super careful with how you run it....

unless you get your head cut for a 4mil and your cylinders ported....yes you will still need the spacer plate. and new spacers to seal up the spacers as they as another place to leak air and burn down your motor from

jeff at FAST racing sells sync tools......you want the "squirrel cage" sync tool. it allows fast comparrison between cylinders while the motor is running..

put your plug caps back on? how about your choke tube between the carbs? put the carb slides back together correctly (they can be put into each other 180* in the wrong direction)? how about the carb bowls....those too can be put on the wrong carb? how about the tors.....got them disconnected? have you done a compression check and a leakdown test yet?

what do you mean you can get them off using vice grips but not the double nut method? You ARE using a wrench on each of the nuts correct? how about trying heat.....like heat the cylinder up with a torch near where the studs goes into the cylinder. also you can find the studs thru our site sponsors. i know jeff at FAST carries them....im sure kevin at hjr does also...

haha....yea i know what your saying sandrider.....i was saying usually it winds up with the "0" on the tach pointing straight down and just like you said either average engine rev or shift points usually wind up being straight up...