SteveCZ28

do you still have the jets available?

no the slides arent in backwards. yes they do fit backwards for maybe half an inch. because of the cutout in the slide alligns itself with the little peg in the side of the carb. so yes they have to be put in correctly inorder to completly be installed and to bottom out. yes the needle is bent in one of the slides, because i accidently stepped on it. which is no biggie as i have a few spare needles still from a rebuild kit

this is the way it was on my bike with these 2 slides together....i noticed they are the same so i want them this way? and i want the ramped section facing the filter side?? so the slide would look opened from filter side and closed from cylinder side???

i dont know what was up with the non tors carbs that came with the bike. the right cylinder would run, and the left would just fill with gas and would crack the reeds only in the left cylinder. then i bought these tors carbs and ran them (before my bike blew up) and it would run on both cylinders just fine...but yes the slides that are on the bike, are both the same. but me using a slide from my tors set up, now gives me 2 different slides

Im having a weird issue with the slides on my banshee...i have 2 sets of slides. one set is attached to the tors set up. and another set of slides are non tors and came with my bike when i got it. i also have 2 sets of carbs, the tors version and the non tors set. i got a tors idle kit for my tors carbs, as i have a problem with the left carb that is non tors, it was dumping so much fuel into the cylinder i was cracking reeds left and right in it. so i got another set of carbs (my tors set) and drilled and tapped them with the tors idle kit as i know these carbs worked with no issues. but heres my dilemma: when i put the slides and carb caps onto my carbs one side is open maybe 1/4 inch, and the other carb the slide bottoms out in the carb. so when looking into the carb from the airbox side, you see one slide open, and the other side shut. but when looking into the cylinder side of the carb, the carb that looked like it was open 1/4 inch is now shut, and the carb that looked bottomed out/shut is now open 1/4 inch... so i dont know what my deal is, or how to set it up. now i took a slide from my tors set up, and put it into my carb. now i can either have both carbs open from the airbox side the 1/4 inch like before, and then both shut on the cylinder side, or vise a versa. my question is, how do i want these carbs set up to run right? obviously i cant run it the way it is with one slide open on the airbox side closed on cylinder side one one carb, and cant run the other carb with the slide bottomed out on air box side, and open cylinder side examples: open on airbox side/ closed cylinder side closed airbox side/open cylinder side

its supposed to say dis assemble old motor. i didnt build the old motor, thus the reason it blew up haha

yes this site has been very helpful, as far as me getting parts that i needed from here, and the resources/articles on here. i did assemble my blown up motor, and did my rebuild from there. went through everything to make sure everything made it, which most did, i did have some slight markings in the bottom end where the crank was from the left cylinder letting go, but i did alot of cleaning and re polishing of that area, and you cant even tell there was any damage. i did all the work myself on this motor except for the boring of the top end. so i am proud of myself on this build. ive done top ends before, but never tackled the entire motor myself. i really wanted to make sure this engine wouldnt melt down like the old one, and i did alot of very close inpections of certain parts and seals upon disassembly to figure out why it went boom. whic it was a combination of a blown crank seal, and the intake boot was torn/ripped and sucking air there also. but knowing what caused the old one to go boom, i now know the new one wont be suffering in those areas

well its been a very long process since i blew my banshee up 4th of july thanks to a bad crank seal, causing the bike to diesel then lose compression. so ive been gathering parts for it since then, and have been slowly building my motor. has a new hot rods crank, new seal kit throughout motor, bored top end with new wiseco pistons. i was very weary of building this motor and i was really stressed about the possibility of another air leak in the new motor then destroying the money i put into it.and i wasnt sold on the yama seal stuff (the thin gray runny waterlike gasket maker) so i built a leak down tester for it. put in 6 psi of air, and watched my gauge like a hawk....it easily surpassed what would be acceptable leak down. as i only lost .5 psi over a 30 minute period so i went ahead and buttoned the motor up and installed it in the bike, then did my compression test today (as its hard to do a compression test on a motor flopping all over the ground when trying to kick it over. 4 kicks it peaked at 150psi on both cylinders. another pat on the back for me as i was just stressed about that. hooked up wiring, and nice to see spark again, although it had spark when it blew,which i was surprised to see it had spark after all the mud i scraped and cleaned off the flywheel. its spick and span now. but its always nice seeing it again after a re-install of all components. i do need a idle kit for my carbs as they are the tors version and dont have idle screws and i should be able to hear this beast scream again, and do some heat cycles on it....but sorry to ramble on, im just excited about my findings on the motor, so maybe ill have more than 15 minutes of ride time on this thing again haha

i tighten the 2 nuts down against each other and really crank on them to tighten them into each other, but when i goto unscrew the stiud by using the bottom nut all it does is spin both nuts on the stud backign the nuts them selves off the studs, and the stud doesnt even turn

i dont have a local yamaha dealership to even ask them...so sorry if it was a dumbass question...the reason i ask this also is if i were to goto an aftermarket head, would it need a different set of studs also?? also i dont want to sound completly retarded, but how exactly does the stud installer/remover work???? becuase im seeing some that are installer/removers in one. ive never used one, so i honestly dont know...

Im trying to put my shee together. and am having issues with the head studs. the only way im able to get the studs out of my old cylinders is with vice grips, as the double nut trick is not working in my situation...but putting the vice grips on the studs im really scoring/gouging them up, so i dont even want to mess with them. my question is where to get, or which head studs do i get? im still running a stock head on my bike. But just browsing ebay for them, theres so many different kinds...so im lost as to which type to get, as i dont want one set thats too long, or too short.... also when i do get the studs, what is the best way to install them? and will they go too far? or will the actually bottom out in the cylinder? any info or help would be greatly appreciated. thanks in advance guys

How much for the rear brake setup?

still looking for this...

Any word on the cylinders u took in to get looked at?

Is that 80 for both? If so ill take them. How much shipped and where do I send paypal