Jereme6655

no offense to anyone here......but he's got 10k in his banshee.....dude....its got T-5 silencers. the missing seat better be lined with fucking gold. i wouldnt' bid on that thing in a police auction the way it looks....

best fuel octane = depends on your motor mods/ compression that your cylinders are pushing best ratio = between 32:1 and 40:1 depending on your oil selection (conventional/synthetic) best oil = good god your gonna get everyones belief.......to be honest....any quality oil will out beat any and all cheap oil. I do know that my friend and i run and love using AMSOIL hp injector....we've had GREAT success with it over the years. his 89 cr125 went for 8 years being ridden hard before it lost enough compression that it couldn't be kick started. And my snowmobile has 7,200 miles on the stock top end running amsoil (knock on wood...its still going strong and havent had problems with it)

that would be minkia38....aka....rattle can ray. don't trust it man. he's been known to do ship some questionable parts and become a real pain to get your money back from.....

FAST (famandsandtoys.com) has them on his website for $13.95. you cannot use a jaw-style puller because it will actually mis-shape your flywheel which means you'll have to purchase a new one just to get your ignition to spark as it uses a magnetic pick-up for timing....

razr 2 tires.......they are 6 ply...tons of tread....and work just like most like em......just enough bite to keep you moving forward when shit hits the fan....but just enough slip to grab a handful of throttle and get the ass end kick out just right around curves....

uhhhhhh.....you normally ride with towels jammed into your bike???? haha.....i take it you got clearance issues and are trying to keep the pipes from hitting?

neah its not bad for you to do that thomas. just remember that whenever you do a mod that helps the bike breathe or fart better....you need to check your jetting. some will say reeds don't change the jetting.....some still check it. i'd check it just to make sure before something happens and you need a rebuild for a minor over look. If i were you tedder i'd also think about grinding into them to make the flow a little nicer.

i get both sides to the arguements here.....and honestly i'd probably say that i would probabably run the 115 if i had money to just replace a crank for no reason. However the stock rod length seems to hold up pretty freakin good for being older technology.....and that's 110. BUT....if i had the money and could warrant the need for a 115 then i'd get it.....might hold out til someone wants to donate a 7 or 10mil...

your too small on the mains.....especially if its getting cold out. I have my buddies bike jetted at 290's with fmf fatties and pod filters on it. Also, most aftermarket pipes really like 27.5 pilot jets. if you have a stock air filter i'd say 270-280 range.....HOWEVER.....as the weather gets colder you just rejet with LARGER jets as colder air is more dense (more air molecules per cubic volume than warm air)

wonder if the cr500 twister would work with a banshee cable...

Yea no shit john.......we pay for it....so im gonna keep calling it what i want to.......

i have also heard that the shearers are less than great at fitment......however i have heard that they scream once you get them on and in place (as much as you can).

cory got ya the top site sponsors there. Dont be afraid to call and talk to these guys.....they are amazing builders. Between Andy at M&M, Jeff at FAST (farm and sand toys) brandon at Wildcard, and Kevin at HJR........i haven't heard a bad thing at all. need pipes....call them.... need an exhaust spring...call them. Need a trans gear or a stainless bolt kit........bingo...call these guys. They are on here as site sponsors and promoting themselves on here for the sales....which in return ALSO allows them to deal out some seriously good deals. Just give them a call and talk with them and you will find that you seem slightly more comfortable with someone over the other.....then go with them. If i were you and i were going to do a top end....id send my cylinders out to them and have THEM do the bore/hone and supply you with the pistons and gasket sets. i say this because i remember having to pay $80 to get a cr125 jug bored and honed at a shop here...........Jeff at FAST charged $100 to bore BOTH my cylinders. and he got me the parts and everything i needed in a really decent amount of time (about 11 days) and that was with him having to bore/hone the cylinders....then port them for a dune/play port AND true and weld my crank. And the work is unbelievable...... BIG CHEERS TO JEFF AND THE FAST CREW

hey mike.....it depends on what pistons are currently in your bike....that is what depends on whether you can tell by a number what the bore size is. wiseco (as far as i know) is the only one that has the bore size in the piston number up top. Sorry earlier about suggesting a rebuild.....i did not pay attention/realize that you were in utah. 90 is not really that bad then. Its not super high.....but its not excessibely low either.

wiesco for the win. go through a site sponsor.....they can usually get them to you for cheaper than anywhere else.

sure you can try and disconnect the tors electrical connector first.....it'll take seconds to do. just unplug the wires that go into the little black box that is on the left side under the fuel tank. if it still shuts off then you can adjust your idle using the twist knobs on the top of the TORS units themselves.

use vasoline to hold the o-rings in the head for ease when assembling. don't pinch the o-rings....it will cause them to leak. And do a leak-down test every time you pull the head or crack into the motor. yes some will say that its a hassle.....however the 30 minutes it'll take you is nothing compared to having to open your motor up AGAIN and then haveto pay to get a rebuild.

John....you've seen how old i am.....it will NEVER be DTE MUSIC ENERGY AMPITHEATER......it will always be PineKnob. let the knob live!

larrys shee is exactly right......new cables stretch and pistons and cylinder bores slightly wear (break-in) causing very small adjustments to be needed. Yes you can adjust it by eye/sound.....you wont hurt it. Remember.....for all intensive purposes......its a 2stroke....its a sloppy, oil burning "stupid" engine. IM NOT SAYING ITS A BAD MOTOR GUYS.....what im saying is its an oil quenched carbeurated motor with no brains to try and tune it on the fly. so that being said......unless your running with no air filters, or leaning the snot out of it (by changing your jets way too much OR putting mods on your banshee WITHOUT jetting for them) you shouldn't have a problem other than natural wear and tear from riding.....

maybe its something to do with the right side crank seals.....seems like the seals on that side are more prone to failing......wondering if that causes the bearings to be munched on and thus cause excessive play....

/\/\/\ BAHAHAHAHHAHAHA..... okay....on a different note.....im slightly amazed you are even able to fire the bike up with 90 psi. Were you holding the throttle wide open and kicking until the needle stopped moving during the compression test? 90 psi is seriously low. Also boring is not a power gain. its done to either fix scuffs or to straighten egg shaped cylinders. they do not add power. being bored twenty over is actually removing .020 of an inch. 2-one hundreths of an inch.....not gonna make that bore big enough to make power. your buddies bike might be tuned bad and yours may be alot closer.......and he may have just been spinning the shit out of the tires .....basically it could be coming down to you being a better rider...

that'd be alright with me emt.

no no....i meant while the nut is still loose and the flywheel isn't against the taper yet......this way your actually letting the nut PUSH the key in towards the crank so that the key is as far towards the nut as possible.

yes it can....and no it can't. lol. you want to be able to look into the carb throat and see the 2 carb slides moving up and down at the same time. It wont make it run so bad that it wont run.....it just wont run up to its optimal performance

it shouldn't be electrically fusing itself together. i know you said you would not like to hear recommendations.....however i would try some anti-sieze. also when you install the key....there is a trick for boat props that i also use for the cranks. you want to get the flywheel on and the nut on.....then take a piece of wire and from the BACKSIDE of the keyway...use the wire to push the key TOWARDS the nut. the object of the key is to keep the flywheel from spinning during installation.....and if it rides too far back towards the crank during install it can "high key" itself on some cranks and cause it to bite real hard on one side of the taper than the other. i wonder if that is happening to yours. also....are you following torque specs or are you trying to put on the nut with like a freakin thunder-gun impact gun? maybe a little bit too much torque???