Jereme6655

Why not write down your keying right now so you can always switch back to the box and not have to plug chop........AND buy a set of pods and find the jetting for that? Then you get both worlds with the ease of swapping.....

What cc domes are you running in your coolness? And what's your altitude above sea level......and your jet sizes..

How exactly do you find your compresion ratio to determine whether you require a higher octane. It could be something completely obvious.....but currently im having a brain fart from hell......

I thought the countershaft seal has lip on it that did not allow it to be placed in while the cases were sealed?

too much timing, too little octane, too little compression, too much power for cast parts, run too lean, not enough oil...... there are probably a hundred different combos of shit that could have gone wrong. we need ALOT more info (and pictures of carnage are always fun to look at) about your bike and what your running in it and how much before we can even being to take rough guesses as to what went wrong with your bike...

call the site sponsor that you dealt with.....they will know the question. chances are you wont be able to replace the seal. Did you have the sponsor replace all the seals and gaskets while he was in the bottom end? or did you try and save money by cheaping out? (no offense if you did) if you cheaped out and its a seal that's leaking i dont know that they will take much blame as you told them to not replace the seals. if you DID get the seals replaced then i bet they will take better care of you than you expected.......our site sponsors on here are absolutely amazing and do top notch work.

well it depends on what needs to be rebuilt in your bike.....if its just a simple top end (it should be unless someone did something retarted to jack your motor)... its roughly $175 for wiseco pro-lite pistons, approximately $45 a jug to bore adn hone, about $20 for gaskets and $13 for a head gasket. long and short is you can rebuild them for around $300-350. and that rebuild can go a LONG way depending how you treat it and maintain it.........buddies got 6 years on his right now and he rides hard (but uses quality synthetic oil) and his old dirt bike had almost 11 years on its top end....

On a side note....jeff carries the oem piece...BUT his site says if you ask they will modify it for no cost.

Hey andy....just got into the garage for a few.... I ohmed out my primary originally at .8 (meter was set at 200) but after I zeroed it out I got .3 That being said I couldn't get the secondary to show anything but my bike does run. I know the clymers manual does give wrong info on how to test something electrical but I ant remember whic one it was that they screwed up on.....hope this helps.....let me know if there is something else you need me to test or a different way than the clymers says.... Jereme

shit....sorry andy i didn't get a chance to yet.....pops has been in the hospital so its taking up a ton of my time....ill try to hop in the garage and ohm that shit out for you tomorrow buddy.....sorry again.

x2......if it starts reving up on its own then you have an air leak in your motor. 2stroke motors....when leaned out (not enough fuel)....will actually naturally "free-rev" or "run away." This is not a good situation as your fuel and oil is mixed together and when you are not getting enough fuel to your pistons your pistons will begin to scrape on the cylinder walls and cause chaos in your motor. This will cause you to have to rebuild your topend (possibly your bottom end if your bearings cant take the abuse of lack of oil) way way sooner than you ever anticipated....

Jeff at FAST gets my vote....he does great quality work....but kevin at hjr and andy at m&m are also good (from what i've heard)

hey andy...i know there is a problem with one of the test procedures in the clymers manuals....i just think of which one it is. haha. i may spend a little bit of time goofin around on my bike a little later in the garage....so if you want i could ohm out my coil and whatnot for you to compare...

larry......this is to clean the needle seat? you pull it completely out and use toothpaste on the seat itself?

it sounds as if your carb is having an issue with the floats. I would pull the carbs out and clean the living hell out of them. I would make sure that you clean out EVERY passage way........if that doesn't stop the leak then it would be your needle and needle seat that is leaking in the carbs...

send the pipes to me....ill make em worth it hahahaha

and your not beating your buddy on his 450? you may need to check your tuning....

clean your bike good first!!! dirt under neather the graphics will only cause it to lift off the bike easier

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=146988

Best idea i can think of......coat hanger with a tight "U" bent into it......that will hook it hard and allow you to tear it out......may take a few pulls to get it all out. then disassemble your silencer.......cause your gonna need to repack it with new packing.

stators have been known to test good even when they are totally bad....it sounds almost like your starting to get a weak stator.....do you have anyone that you can swap stators with for a quick rip?

But you gotta remember that was a honda tech talking yamaha banshee to you........that would be kinda like a regular combustion engine guy telling you all the things that are wrong with turbo diesels) compression tests on 2 strokes will give you an idea of where your cylinders stand in terms of how your banshee will preform. Yes it wont show compression until the piston is ABOVE the ports......but that's like saying your compression test on a 4 stroke doesn't mean shit until your valves close (kinda one of those no shit sherlock type comments). the test is used to tell if you should start looking into a rebuild or not (under 100 psi in either jug)

my friend and i have a vinyl plotter.....and we work on boats (sometimes applying graphics)......just use soapy water in a spray bottle. When you get it where you want just use a bondo blade (plastic little scraper type thing) and use it to squeegie out the water. Then let it dry for a few minutes....

you could get the blue banshees before 05.....i have a 01 and blue angel has a 00....both are blue with original plastics. look to see if you have a switch on your parking brake that acts as a rev limiter.......im about 95% sure they started that in 2006.

site sponsor!! Our site sponsors here rebuild and modify and do work on these bikes in their sleep. I had Jeff at FAST do mine.....i also hear good things about HJR. Go with Wiseco Pro-lites. don't skimp on your rebuild or your bike will skimp on you. cool heads run about $140ish used ($235ish new). While they do a good job at cooling.....they allow you to change the cc size of your domes which can increase or decrease your compression. you can actually re-surface your head if it is slightly warped.....or you can pick up a used oem one for roughly $30