Jereme6655

Tightened the spark plug a little bit Haha.....they do sell new copper washers for plugs at the autostore if your plug is already tight....

Hey star......if he used the switch you suggested as a kill/light switch.....wouldn't it momentarily clip the ignition while riding he he did decide to go from low to high beam?

you said the bikes were built as endurance style machines. i bet they put that longer 5th in there for a multitude of reasons. I am sure they did it to help the bike get to 6th gear....we've all tried our hardest on every surface to get into 6th.....unless your on hard pack or road your not going to pull in 6th....maybe stay at the current speed but your not really gonna pull. Also while riding with my woman this summer i came across something that freaked me out. She is a new rider so her speed is severly limited by her skills....which are not high yet (admitably she is getting ALOT better). What i discovered is when i ride with her and im taking it slow and im having to lug my banshee and im not up on the pipe.....i burn more fuel. And when i say more fuel im not talking a matter of 4oz or something here......im saying i burn a fuck ton more fuel. so much that riding my regular pace i can make it to the next town over AND back......riding with her i made it to town and almost out of town before i ran out of fuel. So i bet it helps them keep it up on the pipe to get INTO 6th OR to help keep it up on the pipe so they can run more endurance...... i know...im sure ill get a flame or something by saying i burn so much more fuel when im luggin going slow......but oh well....i know its true...i was the one who sat on the trail...out of fuel. LOL

both the spark plugs are EASY access......hell you can get to them with a plug wrench, socket, or cresent wrench (only in a pinch) if you need to. when it comes to look for it all depends. Alot of it depends on you. IF you like building things up....then look for one that needs motor work. I kind of like this option because when you get it rebuilt YOU know EXAACTLY what has been done to it and have no doubts about what someone else may have done inside the motor. If you ARE looking at one that has a running motor...... do a compression check. Screw in the hose for the tester...hold the throttle WIDE OPEN, and kick and keep kicking until the needle stops moving....may take 3 kicks....may take 8 kicks. A STOCK motor with good compression should come back around 120-125 psi. If it has a cool-head then the compression is all going to depend on what domes the owner has in them. If you can look for ones that have pipes on them already.....it will wind up with you paying less if you find one that has the pipes on it already. anymore questions just ask.......and welcome to the site!

your speradic idle sounds more like an air leak issue to me. as in your leaning one side out so much that its reving on its own (natural side effect of air leaks) and its not starting cause its not getting the right air fuel ratio. i'd build a leakdown tester and check your engine before you lean it out so far that it grenades your bike....

can you describe in more detail when it happens? how about mods that are done to your bike? it could be dirty carbs, jetting issues, bad fuel, etc, etc..... we need more info from you.

wheat.....when your talking that it sits for a good period of time......how long are you talking? i just went out and prepped my quad for winter hibernation and it only took 7 kicks to start.....it hasn't been started since mid september.....

i have mixed opinions about nikasil cylinders......IF you have confidence in yourself and IF you HAVE built a banshee motor from top to bottom before and WILL BE replacing all the bearings and seals in the entire motor......then im okay with nikasil. reason being is the cost. if you goof somethign during the build or skimp on bearings, or seals and they cut loose and make your piston much on your nikasil.....your in for a real high bill to get your cylinders re-bored and then re-nikasiled. But if you can build it all correctly then yes.....im kinda for it.....its a HELL of a lot more durable than stock sleeves.....just way more to bore them than stock sleeves.

alomost positive it can be done........you may have to slip the clutch a little more than you like. or dump it and grab the clutch quick and dumb again a few times to jar the rollers into moving

sorry to hear about your loss man...... The only one that's going to really look decent is a all blacked out banshee. While i can see where your trying to go with the bob marley theme i don't think its gonna turn out the way your hoping. Where as the blacked out bike going with an ozzy theme would, especially using jd's graphic hook-up, would turn out phenominal. I hope you have fun and give praise towards your brother when you get the build completed. I know alot of us on here know of someone who has burned out while riding.....and i know almost everyone here would like to see pictures of it when its finished....or even along the way durning the build. Jereme

you kinda answered your own problem here......you need a bigger swinger. Your buddies are all running +4swingers OR bigger. Yet your trying to make it up the hill on a +4 or +6 swinger with a 10mil......your crazy. Dont get me wrong....i love power and i love having being able to crack the throttle and go......BUT....there is a point where to much power is a bad thing. Your not at too much power.......just too much power for your chassis setup. If you spend some more on a chassis setup i bet you could come up with one hell of a monster. I know it sucks....but maybe sell that +6 swinger and buy either a 8 or 10inch swinger........then if you wanna trail.....swap with your +4 swinger. Half the fun IS wrenching on these machines.

are you talking 1/4 mile asphalt drags or just goofin off at a 1/4 mile dirt track with your buddies?

cajun.....when we're talking angle cut gears and too much power we are talking SERIOUS power....the kind of power that you usually see in strictly drag bikes. im not saying that you aren't making that kind of power....but from a glance at your avatar photo it looks to be a mild hopped up banshee.......nothing that would warrant straight cut gears.

you may be onto something star.....although i think your right about the volume vs pressure. you may not see any noticable pressure build up. but im liking how your workin through this....i think it does need to be tried out. may be able to test this out on my buddies motor a little later in the winter as i get to do the splitting of cases.

egh boy... this is how i usually guess on someones age. If they can spell words, then usually ill believe they are more than 25years old....basically cause this is where the line has been drawn from when we used to get the shit knocked out of us for bringing home bad report cards and the times now where kids come home with D's and their parents dont care. obviously im not talking typos........but damn.......i don't know what there is more of matt......green or white in there....

almost like your trying to turn a hillshooter into a trail quad and back again.......its kinda hard to do. There aren't a whole lot of guys that will ride a 10mil with a +4 swinger.......most will run a +8 or more. Are you running paddles? if you are then maybe look into some with less blades on them. or sit closer to the bars and lean. or some weight on the front.

you did a rebuild and never hooked up a leakdown tester? ugh ohh....haha..... my suggestion is to make yourself a leakdown tester and slap it up there and do the test.......it'll cost you a total of about $10 and will be a tool you can/should ALWAYS use whenever you disassemble something past a gasket or suspect a leak from a seal. This is the only way to "really" diagnose a leaking seal....

you should be holding WOT and kick until the guage stops going up.....if it takes 3 or 8 kicks.....kick til it stops. clean pistons can also be from a coolant leak....it will steam wash your piston tops......but you'd see some scuffing on the pistons if you pulled them out. 160 is pretty high.....definaately high enough thtat i'd be worried that 93octane woulnd't support it.....you may have to run 100

Welcome to the site! you say your older than the average bear......but how old is that.....i bet you'd be surprized at the age of some of the guys on the site here. Correct the TORS units are those big squarish boxes on your carb tops. alot of us will take those out and replace them using the TORS eliminator kits as they tend to break and leave you possibly stuck on the trail if you don't know what to try and diagnose. Basically it is a micro switch that senses whether you have the throttle opened and the carb slide is up and when you let off the throttle and the slide stays up (malfuntion) it was meant to clip your ignition acting as a rev limiter of sorts. $60 to remove. you can also disable it by disconnecting the "brain" box (little black box) under the left side of the fuel tank. you may want to build a leak down tester also.....its a great tool. it will let you pressurize the top-end and crank case to ensure all of your seals are correct. Which on a 2stroke is death if you dont have good seals as 2strokes will "free-rev" on their own when they are leaned out....... almost sounds like you have a small air leak, however you said it comes back down....which isn't a normal trait of an air leak. also.....take that rear skid off and throw it in the garbage. Then look up jdscustoms (87sheerips is his screen-name) He will be able to make you one that is stronger than ANY skid plate and will not bend.....good guy too. If you have any questions about your bikes or anythign else....just ask. But please.....if your going to ask the traditional "what oil/fuel fix to run" please use the search function.......hahaha....surefire way to get 46 different answers...

shit......ya caught me.....meant to say you supposedly gain low end. got it crossed as i was trying to think while i typed......smoke outta the ears must have gotten in the way. also elevation effects the compression too........gonna be way different if your up at like 6-7000 feet up as opposed to sea level.

yes....you can still raise your idle. Remove your seat. look for the two big ass clunky pieces of crap aluminum that are on the tops of your carbs. Look at the tops of these boxes......see the twist style adjust on the top.....about the size of a dime? if you turn that to the right (move each one in small incrimates and equal amounts for each) then you will raise the idle. Many of us have taken the TORS (throttle over ride system) off of our bikes because they eventually have issues and wind up leaving you on the trail trying to diagnose it AND it makes the carbs a HELL of a lot harder to work on with that crap on the top of them. my suggestion to you is to buy a clymers manual (usually about $25-35) and read up.......and read read read on here......you will learn more than you wanted to know about 2stroke motors and banshees....

okay......yes you'll have to swap out pistons.....gotta move the wrist pin down so the stroker pistons don't come up and kiss your head in a bad bad way. The difference between the rod lengths is played this way......stock is 110.....long rod is 115.......teh long rod doesn't have to move as much aroudn the wrist pin so it puts less side load on the pistons every time it goes around..... The other thing is that going to a +4 mil is gonna be fun.....but it can get expensive if you want to do it the right way.......alot of people neglect to realize you have to setup your bike better to handle the added power. To make it ride correctly.....depending on your likings....yoru gonnna also want to look into new suspension, longer swinger, good tires, etc, etc....

i wonder if there would be a way that we could link up a vin # checker so that we can check our own frame numbers and see what happens. i mean there are 20,000+ members right? maybe someone would listen. Either way i think it would be a handy tool to have........getting it to actually work on the other end is another question....

could be a number of things.....could be running a life of slightly too lean, or just a bad bearing off the production line or a crank that is out of spec.....or even a crank that is slighlty unbalanced....

some will tell you that its a trinity ploy to try and get people to buy a 2-1 carb kit claiming more power, etc, etc....... however.....people who have tried going from original to single carb usually say they don't like it and recommend not doing it. winds up losing low end which isn't known to be real strong on banshees already.