Jereme6655

pancake bearing, HD clutch springs, flex bars, tether switch, aftermarket headlights, stearing stabilizer....... none of these are essential for the build your doing......but they WILL make your bike more enjoyable to ride

Its an easy mind thought......run the filter.....if the sand DOES manage to wipe out your motor then it just gives you more reason to build faster n stronger haha

Matt you have hit the nail right on the head. He managed to get a frame and $ from jd. And like matt said......if your state REQUIRES that you have a title and/or paperwork then why WOULDN'T you run the vin # when the sell has no idea about any info on the frame. YES.....it sucks that it was a stolen frame and that neither you nor jd knew it was stolen at the time of sale. But to come out right and bash him isn't the right way to handle it. Should have called a few more times before you went this route.

okay.....IF you are remotely mechanically inclined then i say do the work yourself. Obviously i suggest talking to one of our site sponsors on here and getting what you need from them. And if you WERE going to just sell off your motor then i'd suggest selling it AND BUYING ONE FROM A SPONSOR.......because if you buy it from someone else....you have no idea how they put it together. Did they skip any corners, does it REALLY have what they claim, did they have ANY idea what they were doing? That's the biggest concern....

yes.....way too much oil. You should be running it at 32:1. If you are running a god quality synthetic 2 stroke oil you can even run it around 40:1.

you DONT need a 10mil to beat the majority of 4strokes you're going to come across. reality is you can beat the majority of them with a good set aftermarket pipes, port job, air filter and timing plate. These alone will help you run down more than 90% of them. And for the guy that has dumped thousands, upon thousands into his 4 stroke.....yes he's gonna beat you......but when he looks lat you and you look at him, you can smile knmowing you've spent about a $1000 to get you that far and he's dropped over 3k. If you really want to hand them their asses then i'd suggest a +4 or +7mil serval.......obviously the 7 is gonna have more power... problem with doing these is its going to set you back about another 1500-2k on setting up your bike to handle the extra power..... Let us know what you decide to do with your bike!

congrats on the new bike.....if you got it with a title then 1150 with the extra rims and everything is a STEAL! If you have any questions for us then ask away....but if you think that someone else has asked the question first then PLEASE try and use the search button........good god we can only take the "what oil mix should i run" so many times hahahahah....... WELCOME!

"talk shit git hit" hahahaha.... if i knew that jd wouldn't get in trouble because he sold a frame without knowledge of it being stolen i'd rat your ass out to the cops rocz. if you still had that frame and nothing could be done to jd for this mistake i'd turn your address in and hope the cops jam it to you hard. now get your dumb ass off this site....if your gonna bitch and crab about something that YOU didn't do (because the BUYER IS RESPONSIBLE for doing the leg work and running VIN's) then you can GTFO. whiney wang lovin clown.....

your gonna need a crank, new domes, new exhaust, new cylinders (most ported cylinders are too far ported PAST what a 4mil port is) new pistons, new carbs (if you want the full potential)......etc, etc, etc..... things that i see that you WONT need to buy from your sig.......engine cases, reeds, and the aftermarket head itself

i think that would be a bad ass idea and would come in handy for us

the problem with the boost bottles is they dont do a damn thing for performance. AND since they are heavier than the stock intakes were designed for (remember the stock tube is light as shit) it causes strain on the rubber intake boots.....every bump, every jump.....i wobble closer to burnin down the motor. That is why the intake boots were ripped.

http://www.cpindinc.com/pub/part_list?manufacturer=3 photos and dimensions....

pull the carbs out and clean them thouroughly.....i mean take the pilot and main jets out also and then clean every hole and over-flow..... also make sure that you did not put your carb slides in backwards.....they should have the half moon cut out aiming townards the air filters.... Then disconnect the TORS unit AT THE BRAIN....which is the small black box under your gas tank on the left side of the bike. Check to make sure your choke tube.....the little black tube between the carbs is in place and ON THE CORRECT NUBS ON THE CARBS.....seen them get put on the wrong ones before. then report back.

Welcome to the site keep reading and figuring things out and anything you cant figure out.......just ask!

Yup.....like CFH said.....its where the pin gets selded to the crank. This is done to ensure the integrity of the crank as the stock cranks are pressed together cranks. They have been known to seperate inside the lower engine and jam against the walls causing the motor to come to a grinding halt. Most people do this when they begin to build up the power in the engine.

your shifting issues could also be caused by your shift fork shaft slightly moving a little bit since your plug came out. i wonder if it either allowed the shaft to move or if it allowed just enough fluid to drain out to quit giving enough lubrication. Either way.....AFTER you fix your plug issue........THEN i'd say check your ecentric adjustment......you want the screw exactly in the middle of the claw ends or else it can make for some interesting issues with shifting...

stick with the site sponsors from this site. I personally went with Jeff at FAST and love his work......big difference. I have heard that Kevin at HJR is also the man when it comes to porting and building these motors. Personally i sent my crank out to get welded/trued at the same time that i sent my jugs out for porting. I look at it this way.......some have had cranks hold the power....some haven't......but i dno't want to build this thing then ride it 3 times and 2 months later have to buy a new crank cause it grenaded itself....i'd rather spend the $65 for the peace of mind. One nice thing that i really like that Jeff did for me (im sure kevin does it too....just dont know personally) was that he offered me to get my crank shipped back to me almost immediately (it was done the 2nd day it was there) and he asked if i wanted it back ASAP so i could begin assembling the lower-end of the motor. I told him to just hold onto it and just ship it with the jugs (winter here so no riding anyways). it took a total of just less than 2 weeks INCLUDING shipping to him and back to me for reassembly.

you could also be fighting a bike that just flat out needs a rebuild. Banshees do begin to get harder and harder to start when they lose compression. Since one of your jugs is down on compression then i bet it would make it alot harder to kick start.....however since you still have a strong jug also i bet that aids in helping the bump starts. i know when my buddies cr125 got down to around 90 psi there was no way to kick start it.....had to pull start it everytime. EITHER WAY......you need to pull that motor down and find out WHY only one of your cylinders lost that compression. I know it would suck seein how you just picked up the bike.......but trust me....its cheeper to pull it down and find the problem now than it is to wait til something bad happens like having a piston skirt break and then do the "cha-cha im gonna stomp your shit down" on your head....that just looks ugly.

your best bet is going to probably be to head more towards new baltimore area.....somewhere around 23 n gratiot or north.......people down here whine, complain and flat out bitch too much about sounds smells, and parking. However those guys up there still live a little old school......alot of them still have their own things and they are more likely going to be more supportive. If you do get some land and mananage to get the approval.....let me know....ill get my hands down in the shit to help get this place going....

you don't like gear "jammin" or gear "slammin" in stead of gear shifting? damnit haha how about instead of the skull mount doing crossed old school pistols....

hey just throwin it out there.....i wanna win the damn shirt HAHAHA...

well if you can pull the choke up without it makling a difference then its making me believe there is a problem with your choke circuit as it should bog out and want to die while its running (and warmed up) when you pull the choke.

how about... WANTED clutch dumping GEAR JAMMING pin it to win it 4 stroke killers or WANTED clutch dumping GEAR SLAMMING pin it to win it 4 stroke killers or There's a new sheriff in town.... Yamaha Banshee

i think its because everyones geeked about being able to pull 80hp while still running pump gas...

have him check the pickup coil and the flywheel. if the flywheel pickups are rusty as shit then it can really throw things off. also check the pick up coil itself........i wonder if its a heat-sink type issue. stators CAN and HAVE been know to test within spec but be totally bad.....