Jereme6655

excessive side to side play in the piston (natural wear on bore size) making it too big will cause the piston skirt to break......along with running 17cc domes....i hope you were running race fuel in that.... yup....your right about having to split the cases and pull out all the debris....along with having to do a topend rebuild. looks like you just makde yourself a good winter time project

do not turn it to +8. call a builder and talk to them....our site sponsors here deal with this on a daily basis and can give you the info that you need to know right over the phone....

hoop.....there isn't a stupid question that a new owner to atv's can ask.... and WELCOME! The hq has so much info and such great knowledgable people (sometimes we can be a little tough on people but its all in fun)

BINGO........also why most of them rotate the tach so that zero is straight down......

unless your running a motor built specifically designed to run +8 timing.....you are beating the fuck out of your pistons. Hell you might as well pull 'em out and smack the pistons with a hammer.....pull that timing down to +4 like stated above and it will be plenty of timing....

i have the vapor on both my shee and the little womans z400....both work great. to work the display and the warning lights off of power i went to radio-shack and got 2 9volt battery connectors and hooked them up so that my vapor sees 18v for use. did this cause i had heard horor stories of hte vapor not working good off of the stator (cause of the interference). the reason for running 2 9v was because the vapor works with 12v to something alot higher (slips my mind right now). It works absolutely great on my shee. The tach function is useless.....i WONT condone using the tach on trail....or anywhere for that matter. It is just WAY too hard to look down at it. The only thing i use it for is to look down at occasionally and check to see that the "above average" and "high" temp (set at your preference for temp) are not alerting to an overheat. i will admit though....i really do like having it because after you set the wheel speed math correctly you can actually see how far you ride based on milage.....

As CFH said.....it does not change the reliability of the bike.....ive seen stock bikes that i wouldn't trust more than 4 ft. Reliabilty comes down to more than just the bike....if it HAS been modded then it matter how acurrate and correct you re-assembled your motor. How much care that is taken when assembling these things really determines whether your sitting on the side of the trail kickin the shit out of it or sittin on the side of the trail watching your friend do the same....

metalic white?

140 and 136 sounds like you've got something like a cool head or a shaved head in there....

while it is possible to do it without porting and with a spacer plate it is REALLY not looked highly upon..... 2 main reason..... 1) your port timings will be off because of the spacer plate... 2) you have just created another spot for an air leak in your motor.... but if you were to do it then it would run....but not as hard as your anticipating....

damn decon.....lookin good.....i mean real good. i gotta give you credit for puttin the work in on those!

dont know if you can get the finish to be glossy....... but ive used bbq paint on blueangels pipes and they're still holding on pretty good........painted them 2 years ago and still no flaking. you have to make sure you rough up the pipes so get the bbq high temp paint to adhere to the metal. ALSO make sure you wipe them down to remove any oil or grease just before you paint....

not necissarily.......you wont always hear the air leak over the pipes.....and it doesn't take a big leak to lean you out enough to blow up a motor. i did a leak-down test when i assembled my motor (while it was still out of the frame) and i had an air leak that was pretty decent size......grabbed some soapy water and found it was a spark plug that was leaking.......i didn't even HEAR it leak.....but holy shit when you got the soapy water on there you knew where it was leaking.....

an over-ride allows you to shift without using the clutch while still under throttle......so you could pin it to win it and still shift but without using the clutch. HOWEVER....a normal over-ride will NOT like backloading (when you slow down in gear without the clutch pulled in)....it will actually destroy them. a DUNABLE over-ride WILL allow you to backload it.....both are more used in drag racing than anything else..... the pancake bearing goes in with your clutch rod/ball and keeps them from welding while your slowing down with the clutch pulled in. keeping that clutch pulled in for a long time (while rolling to a stop) is what causes them to fail and weld together......then you get the fun of splitting the cases to repair it....

2 posts 2 hours apart......all about the same thing. gonna let it go easy this time....haha....

x2 about what gotta_gofast said......the only thing else i might do is a leakdown test......but its only cause im a little crazy when it comes to wanting everything to be perfect when im assembling my stuff..... but in order to do a leakdown your gonna have to pull your carbs and also pull your exhaust off the bike....

Evil......nice bike! ....from seeing how you shift like that though.....ever thought about a dunable over-ride? It'll let you backload it a bit....but also I noticed.....I hope you have a pancake bearing. Your holding the clutch in for a while while slowing down......if you don't your gonna eventually wind up welding your pushrod/ball together.... Bike sounds real strong though man...

it does not matter which plug wire you hook to which plug.....both plugs fire at the same exact time.....

well it could be in there to actually MAKE turbulance... sounds wierd i know but its a proven fact that for motors you achieve the most power with a rough intake entry (as it helps atomize your fuel better and also break your fuel up more and spread it into the air molecules) and a smoothed out polished exhaust to get the exhaust fumes out as fast as possible..... so depending on the "grid" pattern you have in there it may actually be helping you....

well checking the tors is not real hard......there is a little black box under the left side of the gas tank.....disconnect it. no more tors. Its the brain box that is under the tank.....and yes the TORS usually winds up going bad on most of the banshees....

another trick i use....especially for things like stripping the carbs down to clean them totally is ill use chafing pans. The kind you put cans of sterno under in the big banquet trays.....this way you have room for all the parts and you can't mix them up if you have seperate containers for each....

reeds will not make a bike rev up on its own. a leaky reed GASKET can cause it to rev.....but not the reeds. do me a favor first.......do a compression test and a leak-down test......then if one of them seems like its off pull the exhuast and reeds and look at the pistons...... and don't take your bike to a shop anymore......we have all the info on how to repair your bike on here.......along with the best site sponsors/builders AND im sure there is someone from here within 20 minutes of you who could give a hand and help you figure out your problems....

wow.....where you been firebanshee? haha long time since i've seen you here.... id agree with fire.....check your carb slides (cut out shape facing the rear of the bike is correct) and are you SURE that your pistons made it in correctly? which way did you point the little arrow on the piston tops?

okay....try running your bike then shutting it off and leaving your petcock on for about 30 minutes and then turn it off and pull your pipes.......you could ever start unbolting everything while you wait.....i bet its over flowing into your exhaust if its not making its way to the ground..... and it is a needle (which is the plunger that goes up and down) and there is the needle seat which the needle goes down into and gets blocked off.. if a little dirt or a piece of sand gets lodged in there it wont stop the fuel flow and will continue to leak .....

ever heard of "dieseling" its when motors get so hot that the fuel will just start ignigting itself. and if say that piston cracked it would create a hot spot on the dome and that spot could cause it to ignite the fuel on its own. Also it could cause it to ignite at the wrong times which would be detonation......detonation is what causes plugs to back out!! barrow a quad from a friend and ride that.......its not worth damaging a bottom end just to make it one last ride.