Jereme6655

what pilots do you have in it???

X2. Dirty said it right......the wampus is a cub motor and mono block that is made to appear stock and look like seperate cylinders.......so if your into racing for $$$ this cylinder is for you as it will make drag style power and appear to be stock. the serval is more of a trail style top end......it is a trail timed drag motor basically haha.......its set for trail an dduning however if you port it you will wind up with drag timings such as the cheetah. The other nice thing is that with the serval you are able to make 80+ hp while still running pump gas......no need to try and transport all that race gas to somewhere that doesn't sell it when you can make the same power off of pump fuel....

If you disconnect the little black box on the left side under the gas tank it will disable the electrical brain of the tors....that being said the idle will still be adjustable using the big tors boxes on the top of your carb. If you work on your own bike then yes the eliminator kit is worth it.....it makes massive amounts of easy work space under the seat. And its not hard to install.....the kit from FAST is the cheapest I've found and its real easy to install.....just move slow and make sure you use the provided tap at a straight angle to the carb boss......and also file down the barb boss per instructions so the idle will set correctly......its cake work...

Shit your lean. Id hump that up to 270the mains and 27.5 pilots before you melt those pistons.....or 280-290 if you have a better flowing air filter...

pull the slide out and then carefully run the screw all the way in by hand and then look in to the slide bore.....you should be able to see the idle screw with no problems.....if you can't see it then you need to file more of the boss. The screw is meant to acutally push the slide up slightly (holding the idle at a certain rpm) and if its not sticking into the inside of the carb......it wont move the slide......get it?

WISECO......they are all that site sponsors will really recommend.....you can beat on them and they will hold together. Less weight doesn't neccessarily mean less torque......and to tell you the truth you can't tell between stock and wiseco pro-lites.

x2 on both the above posts. We need to know your ELEVATION that your at to get you close on your jetting. When i was only running FMF fatties and 2-1 air filter (at 1250 ft) i was running a 280 main and 27.5 pilots. Aftermarket pipes really like to be jumped up to at least a 27.5 and your tors unit could also be freaking out bad enough to kill your bike. try unplugging it (the brain is all you need to unplug and its the little black box that's under your gas tank on the left side of the bike)

wonder if the shift star is popping the shift arm off and jumping back on .....

usually between 190-200ish is a good place........alot will shut them down when they hit 210. Even though the banshee is a liquid cooled bike.....you need to keep them moving to keep the heat down. hell they'll actually overheat if you just let them sit and idle way too long. Gotta keep moving and keep it flowing. if you are going to be just goofing in a small tight area just keep an eye on the temp.......then when it starts to get hot just hit an open road or field and open it up a little bit to assist in cooling. you can also get a high flow coolant pump along with a larger radiator.....

ummm.......i don't think that anyone has tried it. its gonna be pretty hard to try and change songs on your helmet while your riding.....or volume. and you do realize you wouldn't be able to attach anything to your helmet (without using 2 sided tape) and not compromise your helmets structure right? I understand where your comign from cause every now and then i wish i could hear some jams while im riding..... BUT....then i realize that it is also a safety issue......it'll take your awarness away while riding and will definately screw your hearing up. and no offense but if you came around a corner listing to an ipod and happened to hit my girl friend on her quad cause you weren't paying attention to riding as much as you were to the song......you would have a SERIOUS problem......other than having to pay for her quad hahaha

need....more.....info. what mods do you have, what altitude do you ride at, did this just randomly start or did it start after you changed something on your bike......

okay...fill cylinder.......pump pump pump pump, hold lever in and crack the bleeder screw loose on the caliper.....tighten bleeder screw then release the lever. REPEAT. ive never heard of putting a finger over the bleed screw.......that would not accomplish anything as your trying to use compression to force the bubbles down to be bled.......i guarentee i can over power your finger with the brake lever......and once air gets sucked back in through the air screw, then its start all over time....

you do not wire anything to itself in order to do the tors elimination....

what are your mods that you have done to your bike and what elevation are you at? give us all the info and we can get you real close on your getting....

and i thought they were "ball-sweat prevention holes" hahaha bad to the bone seat jeff!

since you claim to be not so mechanical......where are you located.....maybe your close to another member on here that wouldn't mind stopping by your place and telling you what you got...

well.....the slides are side specific because of the nubs on the interior walls of the carbs, however you can put the carb slides in the wrong carb 180* backwards....so then the halfmoon cut out would be forward when it needs to be pointing out the back of the bike. Also the choke carb (left side carb) has all the choke internalls which are even included in the pickup tube that is in the carb bowl....... so the carb bowl with the small brass ball or "BB" needs to be on the left side carb.

has the weather changed a decent amount in recent days?

just your stock carbs showing their true thoughts about water....

other than some seals....which should be in the kit... or a cracked float everything should be in there that is needed and shouldn't go bad. did this problem just randomly show itself or did it happen after you modded or did something to the bike?

The seam for the cases is what is used as the mark....also have you put the cross-over tube between the carbs back in place?

we've seen this before.....MAKE SURE THEY KNOW 2STROKES....if they are a normal 4stroke shop...STAY THE HELL AWAY. Some shops around think they know what they are doing.....but this is why we have sponsors...because they KNOW what they are doing.

jack it up again and grab the axel itself and see if there is play in the axel housing. if there is then you need new carrier barrings. Seen it before......and you don't want to wait on bearings back there....see them go completely while we were way out on trails where you couldnt get the truck....by the time we got back we needed to get the carrier welded up to even come close to holding bearings. yes we should have just gotten a different carrier....but we had no access to parts and limited tools as we were on a 10 day trip up in michigans UP

no....i am not talking the boost bottle. on the mikuni stock carbs there is a CROSS-OVER tube that goes in between them. it is a tube roughly 1/4 in diameter...maybe 3/8. its job is to activate the second carbs choke circuit.... so without it, they can either run REALLY bad or not want to start at all. the tube goes directly between the two carbs.....just about in the middle of the carb....it looks like one of the boss' on the side of the carb but if i remember its slightly larger than the bosses......look and you'll seee

no need to go all retarted and shit. you had to have known that when you posted "BIG CHEETAH" that people were gonna come in and look cause they are interested......and when you wont describe anything its going to make us give you shit. This is a for sale section.....where YOU came to sell YOUR motor.... now why the fuck would i want to do the leg work to track your ass down to get the information on your motor? i wish i knew what your motor was.....i'd open my mouth and blab it all over the place just to get this damn post over with....