Jereme6655

you my friend....have found a motor that has definately got some mods done to it. 17cc domes means the dome (stock is like 23-24) is now 17cc's. basically it seems (depending on your elevation) that your motor was set for race gas. the 347cm3 that is on the side of the cylinders is the actual displacement of the cylinders........they're stock jugs......347 cubic centimeters.... aka a 350cc motor lol. my opinion is to send your cylinders to a site sponsor on here to get em bored and honed and new pistons......ask them to check out the port work and give their ideas about it. They will be able to tell you whether its a dune/play port or a drag port etc,etc.....and they will have the means to get you the correct pistons (and at the best price) for your application. My choice is Jeff at FAST. But i do know that Kevin at HJR also does some great work.

i bet his carb floats are mis-adjusted and its letting a little bit of fuel into his exhaust which would use up the fuel that is left in his fuel line. Either that or he hasn't noticed it but it may be leaking out the over flows off the sides of the carbs onto the ground and that is where the fuel from his fuel lines is disappearing too...

if it keeps flooding your bike then there is something wrong with your carbs.....whether it be that hte floats are mis-adjusted or the needles and needle seats need to be replaced..... have you dumped the fuel out of your exhaust? it wont run right until you get all that out of your expansion chambers. also you said it would "rev up on it's own" which is an indication of a air leak on your motor... i would suggest doing a leak-down test on your motor so that it doesn't run too lean and melt your pistons.

im pretty sure he's talkin the tors. Okay......kirk try this one.....there's a little black box for the TORS under the gas tank...left side. If its connected try and disconnect it and then take it for a quick ride and see what happens.......im wondering if the brain for the tors went crappy when he didn't have it hooked up and now its fighting him....

/\ X2 gotta hold the throttle wide open when you kick and kick. make sure you kick til the needle stops moving. and if you DID have 65 psi per cylinder then youd have to pull it behind a car to start it.....and even then i doubt that its would start. lol. glad you got your bike running.......this site has alot of info that can help diagnose almost any problem out there....

The only 2 wires that go to the clutch lever......cut them and try reving your bike....no real way to do it wrong

my idea about usign the compression test at this point is cause the previous owner didn't know a thing about the bike......so maybe it was something stupid and simple like the right side munched a reed and that's why the right side wont fire haha......hey it could happen lol

gonna have to pull the motor down to tell really. if you say its got a bad right cylinder then your probably planning on pullin the jugs anyways. BUT FIRST (if you haven't already) do a compression test (WOT and kick til the needle stops moving) and a leak down test (instructions to build one are in the general section i believe) to see where your at. Chances are it may have gotten an air leak and melted a piston. To check for port work your gonna need to pull the jugs off and look at the intakes AND the exhaust side to see if they've been ground on.... pay attention to the transfer support.....if its square on the front then its usually gonna be stock....if its got a knife edge on the front then its been ground on for port work. You can either measure the stroke of the crank by measuring the distance from TDC to BDC... and also you can measure the distance from the center of the big end of the crank to the center of the little end to tell if you have a stock length crank or a +5 crank (helps with side load on the piston with the longer rod) also when you get your pistons out see if you can remove some of the carbon on top and look to see if there are any numbers on the domes......if they've been replaced and replaced with wisecos then the number will either start with a 513 (stock piston) or a 795 series piston. also post up some photos of your bike and we can tell you more about it from the photos......make sure you get photos of the bike to us too.

the block off plate will not disable the electronic parking break switch....you gotta cut the wires going to it to stop its problems.

33's should suit you fine.....they'll allow a larger fuel dump in the high revs where as the 28s can't gobble enough air.... The problem with going larger than that with most bikes is that you begin to lose your low end pull. Also the shearers allow more over rev than the t5's that you are currently running. The cpi's will also allow more over rev than the t5's. If you jumped to 33's it would definitely help but I bet your t5's would then be what is limiting you. But the shearers would pull your bike hard up top with 33'sthe like your describing. Check with NYUK he deals in parts and may have some floating around for you...

you can......you just wont have the absolute optimal setup......the fatties are good......dont get me wrong (i run em) but theyre not gonna get the performance you would our of R-2's or shearers or cpi's

okay kirk.......i give you credit for knowing that newer riders shouldn't be dicking with twist throttle quads........ but after that......what do you mean "now it smokes all the time?" its a 2 stroke....it should smoke all the time..........and what are carb switches???? we need ALOT more info about your bike and your elevation to let you know if its a jetting problem or whatnot.... and welcome to the hq!

how cool of a motor are we talking here...... are you talking like kick it over from dead cold and give it 20 seconds to warm up or are we talking giving it a healthy warm up and when its up at operating temp it will also do it?

do you still have the TORS on your bike? if you do try disconnecting the little black box that's under the left side of the gas tank.....its the TORS brain box. Edit: YUP.....just watched your video. you still have TORS.... disconnect that brain and try it....bet it works

if you said it had plently of fuel in it and suddenly it just started to rev up on its own then it was an air leak. leaned the shit out of your bike and melted a hole in your pistons. This is a common problem with air leaks....this is why we have info on how to build leak down testers so ensure that our motors dont eat pistons. BEFORE you tear it down.......although i bet you did to find the holes.......you should always do a leak down test and a compression test. This can let you know little facts that can help you diagnose and find reasonings as to why things happened.

okay.....the idle kit looks like 2 brass screws that go into the carbs (both go on out-bound sides of each carb). have you tried adjusting the idle with those? This is how you get a baseline with the idle kit..........start bike and use throttle to hold a desired idle while taking your other hand and slightly turning the idle screws in until they touch....then give each an additional 1/8 turn in. This will set the idle at that speed you had held with the throttle. Then you can use a sync tool to fine tune it. it could also be that the person who installed it may not have filed down enough of the "boss" on the side of the carb to allow the idle screw to reach into the carb body........this is easy to diagnose too.....just pull the slides out and then screw the idle screw in and look into the carb.....if you can see the end of the screw coming through then its been filed enough.

you sure your not running super fat on the pilot or on the main? wonder if its just loading up until you beat it down hard to burn up the excess that is trying to make its way into your cases...

most people who have had clearance issues with the brake lever and the lockup covers just use their caveman abilities and bend the rear brake out of the way....

just remember you need to jet it again if you mod the airbox to allow more airflow. If you want more but still want protection against the elements then give FAST a call....it'll prob be nick that will help you....tell him you want to mod your airbox for more airflow and he will get you a package of plastic circles that have foam in the middle of them.....all you do is drill the required size hold in your air box (above your filter!!!) and then pop the plastic circle in and it allows air to flow through that spot while still being filtered....

ummm....no this would not help you fix your bike.....you either need a new ball joint (because yours failed causing it to seperate the spindle and the a-arm) or you need a new a-arm (cracked the a-arm and it let the press-fit ball joint free itself from the a-arm) either way the ball joint BOOT repair will not help your bike stay together.....you need to do some mechanical repairs...

There's another point that i just noticed that no one has hit on.......RACE GAS. Octane is your friend when your running big motors like 7 or 10 mil bikes....most of them wind up breathing the hard stuff....which can be expensive... Do you have access to race gas in Hawaii? You could also do a 4mil serval setup......which will give you the benifits of being a great low end grunt trail bike and still a real hard runner up top. and you can get 80+ hp on PUMP GAS. To answer your other question though......no you can't use stock cylinders for a 7mil because the stroke of the crank is that much farther it would make your piston and your head come together in a way that you'd never want to see again..... the 4 mil cranks have to run blaster pistons in order to offset the added stroke of the 4mil..... and i know that all our site sponsors on here have the parts to do a +4mil ready to go for another awsome build...

If your talking about how much compression a stock motor should have after it has just been rebuilt.....your lookin at somewhere around 125psi per cylinder. if your talking when should you rebuild it.....id say if its down near 100 its rebuild time....

okay in the dunes i can understand.......but im still not a fan of riding wooded trails with music...

you have to take it to a company who does that kind of work...... then they take your clyinders and heat them up while cooling down the sleeve... then they will insert the sleeve into the cylinder that you have for them and line up the intake and exhaust ports. its not as easy of a task as it sounds. This is why its usually cheaper to just find a good set of used cylinders than it is to have your cylinders sleeved...

Shit....sorry I said cheetah a few times....meant cub. Not enough coffee for my brain to process right...