Jereme6655

Just did around on Facebook marketplace. You’ll find em no problem.

Looks decent to me….id run it. Looks to be a relatively safe jetting

Loco’s right. They aren’t “ready” right out of the box. And many people get scared to jet the carbs…they’re actually really easy once you learn how to do a plug chop. And to be honest, you can usually get away with a 20 degree window of temperature before needing to rejet. And even then, if you know your machine and have a slight bit of common sense….you can easily get farther out of that window and still ride safely.

Why do you want lectrons?

Also things to note….. since you’re saying it happens after about 10 minutes of riding…. It could be an electrical component that is starting to fail, but only when heat soaked. There’s two ways I know of testing these situations. 1) ride it with a dvm in your pocket and be damn quick at testing the components when they happen. Or 2)….. pull the electrical parts and heat them in a pot of water while monitoring their specs with your dvm. Four components that shouldn’t get wet….. put them in a zip loc bag and suspend it in the water. Let us know what you find. also…. What symptoms are you having that make you say it’s a right cylinder bog?

I have size 13 feet also….what kind of footwear are you wearing? I’ve never had a problem wearing hiking boots/work boots while kicking. But after its winter nap, I have tried kicking it with tennis shoes on……nope…..won’t do that anymore. Also I am kicking 158/157 psi and have no issues. I do run cut down rear fenders, but when I put my fulls back on, I still do not have an issue with catching my calve on the plastics. Oem starter here

Jeezuz…. Next time do more research on the sellers. Vito’s aka minkia is an absolute pile of shit guy. Quite well noted here on the forum…..

Do you have a place you can do a plug chop? Most guys on here won’t really take our machines to a shop….unless it’s a big name shop on here like F.A.S.T racing or such. Dont really trust most atv mechanics with a 2 stroke to begin with…. Then you throw in a banshee and things can get all messed up. Not saying there aren’t great mechanics out there….. but do a plug chop. Bonus points if you can record it so we have an idea what it’s doing…. Then put it on YouTube and post the link here….

Also, pay attention to the choke tube and make sure you are putting the correct carb intervals into the correct carbs, as the float bowl from the choke carb WILL fit on the other carb and will cause running problems…

Okay. So…. Let’s take a deep breath and get this figured out before your wife makes you sell it! first and foremost…. Have you ridden any form of powersports toys in the past? Is this your very first toy? I don’t want to assume, but we have discovered before that it was all the rider that didn’t understand 2stroke high performance sport quad vs 4 stroke utility quad in terms of understanding how to ride them. Like others said, 330s do sound pretty freaking large IF your bike only has pipes. 2 stroke engines do NOT like to be lugged ….. you have to have the rpm’s up there in order to take off without it stalling or bogging real bad. Are you sure you’re riding it right? Also 2 strokes and especially modified banshees can have a pretty violent powerband….. you know If/when your bike gets there. If your carb is leaking out the drain tube, it is overflowing internally. Usually caused by a stuck float….. sometimes a gentle tapping on the side of the carb will free it up. also…. What do you mean by 1 1/2 turns from “touching the slide”? Only thing touching the side should be the idle screw if you removed the tors…..

You either hung open your carbs, or created one hell of an air leak. Definitely need to do a leak down test any time you remove anything with a seal/gasket that deals with the engine…..at least for safe measures.

Read up on how to sync and jet carbs. Also…. Not trying to sound harsh, but have you ridden 2strokes or banshees before? Banshees like to be up on the pipe…. Not lugged like a 4 stroke

Glad it worked out! Now go give it hell!

Sounds like you have a failing ignition component that gets worse as it heat soaks. can you make a jumper to connect the different plug for the cdi as a test?

No need for larger carbs, oem are good for 65-70-ish hp before they really start to choke the motor. Realistically, if thinking of having port work done, I’d get aftermarket pipes before carbs. Like 375 said, go with something your builder recommends. And on the builder note, please….make life easier on yourself and send it to an ACTUAL builder. We have plenty of them that are recommended on here……don’t just send the cylinders to some dude who says he can port them because he’s close to you. Call em up……the hood ones will ask questions like “what aftermarket parts do you currently have on your bike” and “what type of performance are you looking for” I went through Jeff at F.A.S.T. Racing and he asked me things like my riding conditions, what I wanted in terms of performance, my riding style, what fuels I wanted to run or have access to, current bike setup….. super glad I went him, he kept me up to date on the whole process and even had me call him with compression numbers after i finished the build to verify i wasn’t above what the fuel could handle. aside from port work, I’d also recommend pipes, air filter, true/weld the crank, timing, and possibly having the transfer ports ported to match the dune port (your builder will know what I’m talking about)