midlifecrisis

Look at the sponsors listings, PJ motorsports in is there, they specialize in carb parts, and just helped me with my PJs as well. Her name is Sarra.

Thats another reason why I think location should be mandatory, Not looking at a street address, but for soooo many questions it would help like jetting, language (like this), shipping etc...JMO!

The hole is a detonation issue cause by an air leak or another type of lean condition caused by a carb being lean. Questions that beg to be asked, where are you, elevation, mods etc, carb sizes...................? As far as your sleeve, I think you know the answer for that one. That sleeve has to be pressed in under extreme pressure while cooling it with liquid nitrogen, if it moves with you wiggle a loose bolt, there might be an answer to your questions right there.

Im guessing by your handle that winter doesnt exist, so its a matter of whether you can handle not having it together? If it were me, and winter was happening outside, I would get it fixed for peace of mind.

Hey, Long time! Thrilled with the cylinders, thanks for talking me into it, lol! Yeah, I almost bought one off a guy on here who was adding an inch to them with no issues by splitting it and welding in a piece inside it. Question though, why wouldnt you just add a bar riser?

Thats correct, I was commenting on your question, rather than the correct way to setup a 4 mil. Although the porting isnt neccessary, its just a good idea. Also, youre Title may be confusing you, it should read "Stock stroke vs 4 mil". Stock crank can still remain the same with a 4 mil rod, and +4 usually has more to do with timing, than rod length.

The taller the tire, the better the absorption of the rocks etc....... you dont want to dent a rim or blow a bead cause the tire profile is too low. I wouldnt even consider a 20", minimum a 21" maybe with a beadlock or reinforced rim, for speed and rocky terrain, Id stick with a 22". Anything bigger looks kinda goofy to me, JMO!

No hes talking about installing a spacer between your cases and your cylinders in order to make your stock cylinders 4mm taller to allow for the new length of travel from your 4 mil connecting rods. Porting has nothing to do with what length rods you use. Porting has to do with opening up your transfers and potentially adding a thrid port to your stock cylinders to increase fuel and airflow. The 65mm pistons refers to the bore size of your cylinder, and really boring a cylinder to add power is a waste of money. The 4 mil kit that youre talking about is going to considerably increase power, if installed correctly. You my friend need to buy a Clymers manual to help out with some of the terminology and to do routine maintenance to your bike, it will save you money.

First of all welcome to the site, youre certainly in the right place. Banshees are pretty crazy out of the box, but at 21 yrs old, you know the difference between can I and should I. Hell Yeah! Ive heard the old addidge "if the power is there, I dont really need to use it" a million times, but why buy a slower quad and grow out of it within a few months. If youve ridden the 4 strokes a bit, you know what to expect, just hold on tight when you hit the power band on one of these beasts, cause theirs nothin else like it. When I was 21, I sold my banshee cause it didnt do all that well in a Canadian winter.................... I regretted it for over 15 years, til I got another one. Now Im happy again. These things can be modified severely, and at a much lower cost than the 450s, because there is 20 years worth of the same machine kicking around, therefore lots of 2nd hand parts, as other guys step up to newer technology, youll do the same once youre used to it. All 2 strokes take maintenance, you cant just jump on it year after year and ride without some routine stuff, like oil changes, chain tensioning etc......as well as the occasional top end, but thats part of owning any 2 stroke, the more you tinker with it, the better you treat it, the longer she`ll last. You should be able to find a bike in winter for that type of price tag, it just depends on where you are? Some markets are better than others. A good place to look is in the for sale forum on here, as the members on here arent out to scam anyone, unlike a craigslist or egay purchase. Everyone who has sold on here has a feedback section, where you can see if theyre scum, or legit. The good thing is, that with a few minor changes to a stock bike, youll be able to keep up with, and maybe beat the 450s which cost thousands to fix when broken. I had one of the young fellas that works for me, have to sell his YFZ, cause he didnt have the dollars to fix it. Do yourself a favour, if youre serious about buying one, but a Clymers manual right away, it will be a HUGE help when it comes time to maintain, and fix your bike. And keep coming on here and reading as much as you can, youre never to young or too old to learn! WELCOME TO YOUR NEW ADDICTION!

What size bearclaws are you looking at, I have a set for sale that have 1 ride in snow on them

In case Snops answer doesnt explain enough, I had the same question. Case bolt # 16 has a vent tube right beside it. That vent tube is attached to the t, which also attaches to the tube which comes out from the clutch cover. Both of them are directed upwards towards the steering stem area, so that theyre up high, and wont allow oil to dump out when loading her up in a truck or wheelieing etc....

Pro Circuits. I had a buddy show up to my friends farm on his 1198 ducati, and take my shee out for a spin, when he gets back he says to me, whatever youve done to that thing, I want the same done to mine, now Im building one for him. The procircuits ultimately give me enough low to mid grunt, to keep up with my 2 buddies modded LTR 450s, now if they could just figure out to keep up in the high revs, it would be more interesting.

Whats with you guys, we dont even get as much snow as North Carolina anymore? lol. Im looking for a swinger, stock length. I have a RAD 35mm carrier, so it doesnt have to come with one built in if it helps, Thanks!

Shit! 6 minutes too late, or itd be a Canadian citizen!

pics to [email protected]? Thanks!

Bump for a sick bike man, I bet the neighbours love you!

Im looking for a set of rear hubs, a rear shock and those billet hangers, any of it still there? Also, are the j arms stock width? By the way, Im loving the front suspension that you sold me, until I have to rebuild it that is, lol. Thanks, Matt

dude, post them up in photobucket, and then post the link here with as many photos as you can. Idf you part it out, Id be interested in a set of IMS pegs if you have any?

Welcome to the site bro, and your new addiction. Do yourself a favour, and like one of the other members suggested, buy a Clymers manual. It is the bible for these bikes, and easy to follow if youre just learning. This site has been indispensible to me and my bike. I would never have bought my bike if I hadnt found this site a month before the purchase took place. It would be a good idea, to buy a set of jets for the carbs, so you have them. As another member also said, every engine related mod, will require at least a plug check, and possibly a rejet. Youre going to need them, as you will end up wanting more power soon, we all do. This being the mains and possibly the pilots. One size up or down makes a huge difference usually, especially in winter when the air is more dense. If ordering jets, and just starting off, I would have in my toolbox, 220-350 mains, and 25-35 pilots for 26mm stock mikunis. Ask your mechanic to let you know what size jets are in there, and if the carbs are stockers.

Welcome bro! Are you more concerned about weight, or rigidity and strength? I run Razrs front and back, they are tough as nails and I have them on ITPs with the reinforcing rings. I found that the holeshots that one of my guys runs, are too soft, and lost rubber too quickly for the money. Youre opening up a can of worms here..........lol.

Apparently a complete waste of money. Im sticking with a stock box and my pro design filter and pro flo adaptor plate. I was thinking about the conversion to pods and that box, but its had no test time, and I cant justify the cost. Even when the guy selling them on ebay answered me, he admitted that they were a brand new item to him, and he didnt have too much positive or negative to say about them.

Cam, youre on a roll today, someone shit in your Shreddies.........lol ? The company (Burgard) that sold me the a arms are impossible to get ahold of on a good day, so thats not an option, as I dont feel like a fight today. That being said, there is really only one option as far as the ball joints are concerned that fit these arms. They are 14mm tapered, did I just answer my own question? I need them to fit snug, with no movement obviously. One guy told me to drill a regualr hole and use a copper bushing in there to make up for the taper, WTF, that cant be correct?

Nice Cam, Im sure thats what he wanted to hear? Welcome bro, youre in the right place. My bike seriously revved up like that last summer running a set of OKO carbs, and it was because of the fuel level being low, and it was causing the bowls to run dry. It revved up uncontrollably, and the kill switch didnt do dick. Like you, I had to pull the plug wires to kill it. That being said, Im with 350, in that most of those runaway conditions are caused by a lien condition. Post up your specs and mods and location, so the guys can get a better grasp of your machine

What size reamer is it that I buy, when doing the front spindles, anyone know?

Where it states " signed in as dragbanshee" click there, then on the scroll down menu, double click "messenger", thats where youll find your PMs, hope this helps.