midlifecrisis

Why is it that you are rebuilding the crank? I am buying a shee this weekend that the kid says will need a new top end and possibly a crank bearing, should I be weary? I have done a top end before in a previous shee, but Im like you, and have never screwed around with the crank!

So Im pretty interested in the dual gasser for sure. Best of both worlds, right? How does it work though, are there 2 seperate cables, or do you have to switch it over when you want to make the change?

Im with this guy, I drilled a hole into the concrete, bought an epoxy from a local safety supply company that concrete companies use to fix anchor bolts gone bad (Hilti 2 pc epoxy) mashed a huge eye bolt into it, and then used a kryptonite cable to fasten thru the wheels and frame. I use cable cause its harder to cut with a bolt cutter. The lock should show no loop when its locked as well (master makes agood one).

It must be the old age and arthritis, LOL, either that or your just stronger than me!

Alright guys thanks for the info, Im seriously looking into them. Im wondering then, should I have the pistons in hand when I bring the cylinders into the shop? Or should I order the pistons according to the finished hone?

I saw a previous thread earlier today about a piston type, so I figure Id ask about these before I buy them. Anyone ever heard of or used these pistons?WSM pistons (made in Germany) I found them on ebay at a pretty reputable dealer with good long standing past. $230.00 for the pair including everything (rings, pins, clips, top end gasket set etc....) I have only sourced the Wiseco pistons from a dealership here in Ontario, I know that they are a reputable name, Ive used them before. Any info would be great! Im going to take silence as a strike against them!

Tough choice! I drive both dodges, one diesel and 1 hemi Ram, but it all boils down to what youre doing with it. Here in Ontario, diesel is way cheaper too so Im not sure what goes on with fuel costs there in Vegas. Diesels burn the same amount of fuel if you are driving to school or pulling a 15000 lb trailer full of your buddys's quads to the track, whereas gas will go thru 2 tanks pulling that same amount of weight to the grocery store, so as I said, it all depends what youre doing with it!

I have a pair of Fox Proformas and they are comfy as hell. They were as stiff as youre talking about when new, but wore in nicely with use. Keep em clean though, and use Dubbin or another type of Leathertreatment on them though and they'll break in faster and with no cracking. My previous boots cracked a lot when I mistreated them, and basically ruined them. My wifes MSR's are the same as yours, and she always complains about the toes being too thick (too tall), so weve adjusted the shifter, run over the toes afew times with the RAM, now were ready for this season!

I can certainly see the advantage of the thumb throttle, but I have always changed my quads over to a twist, is there any clear advantage to keeping a stock setup? A lot of the young guys that I ride with swear by the thumb, but it kills my thumb after a short amount of time!

Im chiming in here as well, as I am about to start on a rebuild of the top end of an 01 I just bought. How in depth does the Clymers manual go? Will it be based on a complete tear down and rebuild?

Alright, so how do you determine then what size the existing bore is, how much will need to be removed, and moreso, if a set of pistons/rings is available for the size of the new bore? Im asking because I see a buch of guys on here saying that it has been oversized .010, .020, .030 etc..... and although the girl that told me it was plated is a dipshit, she also told me that the rings only come in an.025, or an.050 oversize, it this true or????

OK, so Im still looking for info on the '01 shee Im about to buy. The kid whos selling it has been pretty honest with me by telling me that he figures the left cylinder has seized because the rubber boots on the boost boottle had 2 tiny cracks in them, causing it to lean out in the icy weather, that makes sense to me! Now if I need to redo the pistons, rings bearings etc.. thats fine, but my 2 local dealerships have given me conflicting info. One says that the cylinder sleeve is cast iron and can be machined, the other says that the sleeve is chrome plated and may need to be replaced? What the hell is that? Can someone point me in the right direction, if so what types of parts should I be buying for track and trail riding on weekends, and not die hard everyday rippin! Please keep in mind that if it were made of wood, I could rebuild it with my eyes closed, but since its a machine, layments terms please!

Alright, so is it best to eliminate the boost bottle all together and run 2 seperate filters, or 1 single filter that feeds both carbs? I noticed on your posting under your pics, that you are looking to scrap the boost bottle (how and why)? I know my previous GSXR had 4 individual filters! I never had an issue with setup, is it likely to be the same with 2 strokes? If his info is true about him shutting the machine down as soon as he realized what was happening, then is the damge likely to be horrendous? Just because, I obviously wont be able to open up the cylinders before I buy it!

Alright Im taking notes on everything, heres some additional info that the kid has just passed on to me, Ive copied it from my email,: "So it was about -15 the day i was out and i had it open for too long i've learned since then, i've always owned 4 strokes before. So the left cylinder seized and i shut it off before it was totally screwed, so it still ran half ass. I brought it home and tore the top end off. The pistons look brand new, just the left one had a little scab on the exhaust side of the cylinder which left a really small score on the cylinder wall. It has a boost bottle with 2 rubber boots which i found had 2 cracks in it, which could have been a big part of the problem. The combination of cold weather, the cracks in the boost bottle, and me bein an idiot and riding it for too long at a high rpm all contributed to the scab i assume. The right crank rod bearing feels beautiful, and the left feels good, but i have been told it may need replaced... just being totally honest. Otherwise the guy before me dumped a tonne of money in this quad and if i wasnt in school and had the money i would definatley rebuild it right away." So what do we think? With him talking about the boost bottle, is he talking about nitrous? Hell, Im not sure if Im ready for that! LOL!

OK, so Im pretty new to the forum, so be nice! I am in the market to get ahold of my second Banshee, its an '01, but there is an issue with it. I am not a hugely technical person, so Im looking for some advice. Keep in mind that the shee is stock other than an exhaust! The banshee is priced right, but it has a seized piston. Im wondering if it is worth rehoning the cylinders and installing new pistons and rings or should I buy a new head and then rebuild from that point? The young fella that I am talking to about it, said that the damage was caused by him riding it in the cold weather (Canadian winters eh!) without rejetting the carbs, is that a possibility or is he full of crap? I wanted to know also, what kind of damage could have been done in the bottom end? He tells me that the piston only has a small score on it. If Im doing the pistons and rings, anything else I should be doing at the same time? Budget is always an issue, this machine is meant to be ridden at a buddys farm every now and then, Im not young enough to ride everyday!