midlifecrisis

Check this guy out! http://toronto.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-ATVs-snowmobiles-ATVs-2004-Custom-Yamaha-Bashee-W0QQAdIdZ251668701

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Its winter, no banshee is worth $3000+ in winter, especially in a cold climate. Tell them as soon as the LSD wears off to call you with a serious price, this is more like it. http://toronto.en.craigslist.ca/tor/mcy/2122079585.html and that price is CAD!

Sprinkler, is that you in your avatar?

Hey, thats why theyre called accidents man! Good luck on the recovery! Esterel, keep that screamer off my lake, youre scaring off my trout! lol!

If youre running a bone stock bike and havent messed around with it too much then youve got 240 mains and 25 pilots in it, you need to go up to 260 mains minimum, and 27.5 pilots. Its better to be rich, than to run it lean, as seizing it only takes a few minutes of lean conditions. If you find youre too rich, you can always bring it down a size, but the general rule / guideline is 2 sizes up for the winter, as the air is more dense and requires more fuel. Youre whereabouts and elevation are essential, they should be in your sig, so people dont have to ask.

did anyone step up and take care of you at the bike shop?

I read your post when you first added it, and have been keeping an eye out here in Ontario and in northern New York on Craigslist aetc..... I once had my boat stolen from my property in northern Ontario, the trailer was locked to my concrete well, and the trailer had no rims and tires on it, they brought their own just to take it. Just goes to show the types of people we're dealing with here. Just so you know, the boat and trailer were found 3 weeks later 1500 kms away, no motor, but home nonetheless. The cops said that the motor would probably ended up on a lake in northern Quebec.

Any synthetic or semisynthetic will seperate in the cold weather, both are great oils though.

The only thin I would really add to muggzys list is to stay away from a synthetic oil in the winter as they have a tendency to break down or seperate into their base components in the cold weather, I noticed you were in New York, and Im just on the other side of the lake. If youre looking on CL, stay away from bikes coming out of an ad in Weedsport, he thinks he can build a motor in 2 hours. Enjoy!

Have you guys seen this type of airbox before? If so, whats the general concensus? I need an airbox, due to riding conditions. http://s752.photobucket.com/albums/xx162/amidlifecrisis/aluminum%20airbox/

I hate to ask, but does that bike have a boost bottle on it? It looks very familiar to my piston tops after it was leaned out and rode on a cold day last year with cracked intakes. It doesnt look to me like a chunk of something came loose and bounced around, the damage isnt bad enough. Split the cases, its that time of year, and get it checked out before it does it again to save a buck. If youre mechanically inclined, buy a clymers manual and do the inspection and rebuild yourself, itll be a good learning experience, and use the forum for advice. Good Luck!

Great seller here guys. Worked out an issue I had that was no fault of his, with no hesitation. I would highly recommend him if you need parts. Thanks again Josh

I cant say enough about this guy. I had an issue with a part I bought, and he corrected it right away, no hiding! Do not hesitate to deal with Josh, thanks again! Just got my stuff in the mail, brand frickin new. Thanks Josh!

Good idea as well camatv, but in the meantime........... I had actually figured it out based on what Phelps and JMadd had suggested. I took a closer look at the shaft of the adjust bolt, and it was quite badly grooved. I happened to have another lower case here from a newer machine than my buddies lower case was, so I swapped out the parts. The adjust nut isnt cam shaped, but in fact, the screw end is offset from the threaded end, and as you tighten it up, or loosen it, it allows the actuator to move up and down on the shift pins, achieving an even spacing. Thanks again to you guys for the help, I would never have figured that out.

As I said, I did it when I was younger, and only cause I didnt want my old man pissed at me. If it was me now, Id take it apart and see what the real issue is. As 68banshee said, its like bandaiding a bad wound. Get a manual and read up, and take it apart/reassemble it correctly.

Id be hopin that theyd take it back. If they didnt then contact the manufacturer and bring it to there attention, if they dont, post who the manufacturer is on here, so we all know what pieces of shit they are. The store and the manufacturer!

OK, so Im putting the cases back together for a buddies build, and I noticed as I checked the gears that the distance between the drum pins and the selector isnt equal (as per the manual). I have tried to loosen the lock nut and adjust it, but the adjust bolt really doesnt seem to do anything. I was getting all but 5th and 6th when the cases were temporarily back together. Its in 1st gear as Im trying the adjustment.. Any ideas?

Do you have a clymers manual? It will help immensly with the wording that we are all using. It will be easier to look at the open case, and refer back and forth to the thread, and manual, and know the way that the forks and drum are supposed to look and operate. I had the exact same problem with my GSXR, it was the shift fork, due to me using the gearing to slow down the bike in second gear, or backloading the tranny.

Im looking for a pair of CEL needle clips for my carbs 34mm PJs, anyone got a spare set? I bought carbs, and theyre missing.

OK, so Ive taken the carbs apart, and 06 youre right, they have been changed over to CEL needles, but there are no clips on them ( I guess they were overlooked when sold to me), and they presently have 162 mains, and a 50 pilot in them. Is this a close enough setup to try, or should the pilot be slightly higher? Does anyone have a spare set of clips they dont need, or can I use the ones off a spare set of mikunis??

Yeah, as NYUK said, either go up 2" or 4" depending on what you want to do, the other you go up 4" no choice. My buddies has been beaten up on for 3years, no problems, but it will depend on the manufacturer, some guarantee them lifetime.

Good tip Tyler, hes supposed to find that out for himself, I did. lol!

Sounds like the selector fork, or the shift drum.

I never thought something like that would have worked either, but as a teenager, I poured light weight oil into the plug hole on the family lawnmower, and it freed it up, big difference though.