AKheathen

i usually end up dropping to 1-2psi with the bear claws at the coal mine, but always start with 4 and adjust.... also, run backwards for soft shit

first, go back to the cdi plug and test what it is seeing. put an ohm meter between black and black/red and make sure it gets continuity (keyswitch on) then between black and black/white and make sure there is not continuity. if you do get continuity, look for the tors box which is mounted under the gas tank with a 3-wire plug., un-plug it and make sure it never gets plugged back in, and do not splice any of the wires. if it's not there, check the kill-switch for malfunction. then, ohm out the white/red and green/red and it should be near 100 or so ohms. then, red to green, which should be like 16-21 ohms, IIRC. you can also measure orange to blac to get your coil reading. all theese need to be as described for the cdi to work.. .... oh, and yyou can usually smack the cdi, and it sometimes comes to life, if it's bad.

ok, read a little wrong- throw some talc powder at the leak, and it will show

um, the only way to cool it is by moving..... there is no fan, or anything, so air has to pass through the radiator somehow. here is another idea..... the way you describe your idea to see the "new fluid' coming out, doesn't sound like you wash it much...... perhaps you should do that then just look for oil.... and make sure the rad is clean.

well, let's keep it simple- first things first- pull the plug. if it looks like shit, put a new one in and try it out for a bit. if that doesn't go away, pull it back out and see what it looks like. it should have some color to it, not white.. check for good blue spark. if you get good blue spark, then move on to fuel/carb. also, could be caused by separated fuel/oil, which will end up pumping more oil and less fuel into one carb/cylinder, which can foul, and lean the cylinder. running lean on a 2-stroke is a sure way to melt a piston. most of the time, many issues are simple mantenance-related, so get familiar with that aspect of your machine, and i wouldn't just dive head-first into the motor over a simple mis-fire without at least looking at simple things and taking some readings. the plugs usually tell a big part of the story when troubleshooting

no, never done the girfriends brother before, but i can tell you not to focus too much on grunt/torque on the blaster. they like to pop up pretty good with the stock motor, but really lack in the long

are you sure you got all the air out? try first a gravity bleed, and use a "catch can" which could be a water bottle or whatever, and hook a hose to the bleeder. the key is to keep the end of the hose in the fluid to get all the bubles. strap the pusher so it's not moving, and try to get a good speed between pumps so air doesn't bleed back up the line. also, can you adjust any free-play out of it? may be too much for the throw of the slave... as for the rectifier, does it have a battery out, or just dc source out? did you power the lights from the battery, or rectifier and ground? it usually helps to pull direct from the battery....

also, check any electrical contacts, like killswitch, connectors, etc..... they can corrode over time. bearings and brakes, and not much else that hasn't been mentioned..

also, look close for signs of rubbing behind the clutch, missing/loose drum/star retainer, binding of the shift shaft on the case. the nub on the case holds the end thrust, and might not clear well without a gasket to space the cover out...... and anything else out of place, or abnormally worn

slack the cable and see how much free-play you have in the lever on the case. i'm not sure what it could be, since you said you drove it around and it worked right before replacing the carrier... did the cable come of the clip/groove on the case?

well, lots could have happened..... did someone dink around with the cable adjustment? clutch pack stuck for sitting?something happen towing it back? who knows yet. just have to start by checking for free-play and such.... and for a welded ball from holding the clutch too long

well, start by slacking the cable, and measure the free-play on the arm. between 1/8" and 1/4" is good. more than that, i would adjust the pressure plate to get it in, and less, and you will be re-adjusting the pressure plate pretty soon. then pull the slack up so ther is just a little at the pertch, and it should be close to the case marks anyways

all banshee stock flywheels are the same, just steer clear of stock replacements form ricky stator

well, it all depends on what you are looking for/expect from it. if you are just looking for plug-and-play "bolt-on" power, well, you can get the same from a timing plate advance and "hotter" spark from a different coil. now, what makes it worth the money, is the major tueability and features for more involved builds, where you look at more than just peak power. you can spend $100, or find someone that already has, and program custom curves to suit your build. you can control powervalve servos, or powerjets, program a launch stutter, tap into tach, etc.... it also will basically allow you to adapt it to your build if you are going the progressive route........ and that's why you buy one, in reality..

i don't have a pic on hand, but you can get a replacement roller at any power sports shop, just check the bolt size. the hole is located a few inches back from where the swinger bolts. it's on a kind of ear/tab. i wanna say i went with a 1.5" roller on mine

first thing i would do is check the swing-arm bearings at the frame. just thrust the rear grab bar side to side and look for play at the frame. then check your sprocket and sprocket hub for play, wear, and count the teeth. should be 14/41 stock.

hard to tell in the pic, but it kind of looks like the had has been beat back down by the piston after running the bearing pieces through. i would have things mic'd out, and replace the head/pistons. check for dirty/plugged/contaminated fuel system, just go over everything untill you have ruled out more than piston and head clearance

it's because it hates you........... well, normal people might be inclined to describe their steup to get real answers, lol. are they factory matched cases? have they been worked? (oil holes epoxied, etc) is the lower case chattered out? which bearing? hp, or at least mods so we can estimate hp/load? why is my finger pink? we can tell you things, but anything we tell you will be based off the fact that we don't know anything because you did not tell us....

the pipes in my sig, are vht white...... they also had red, yellow, silver, and black, i belive, maybe blue....... one main key is the progressive curing... i did mine in stages, and almost went too hot on a stage, and it started to discolor a tad, but my end result is a real nice white that lasts no problem. i imagine the same result in any color.

i don't have a youtube acct., so i just responded in your other thread....... one more thing i forgot to mention- nobody has been able to locate the choke clips anywhere, but a whole noew choke assy, is only like $8 at the dealer...

i'll take the used ssealant....... and you gotta measure at the butt-hole, right?

well, the things you gotta look at for replacement are the coil wires/caps, and stator. stock, or personal re-wrap(not ebay, or big company) are the best bets for a stator. there are some good ignitions out there, but stock rarely fails, you pretty much need a good reason to replace it, like added features, or programamble timing curves. there is also the nology coil, which is a good buy, and full pvl ignition if you are just into drag....

well, first, yes, there is a nice jump in power/torque going 4mill, or bigger, but everything else- you need to have your cylinders done to match, and making the stock pistons work, is not the greatest of ideas....... short of it, get a builder and ask them. to make it worth while, it's going to run about 1200 give or take, and any short-cuts to just make it work are going to cost more, and make less power than just getting it ported. if you still have stock pistons in there, it's probably time to replace them anyways. go read up in the drag section, and you will learn a lot, and i'm not talking about skimming a couple threads for a couple min. do reasearch and learn. it will take time.

WTF?

well, they are 2-stroke, and generally, are not for lugging down, but they do have tons of power. you should be making decent torque already. enough that you would be looking at suspension to handle it better in the trails. one thing that does come out real prevalent power-wise, is poor state of tune. that will really kill some power, and even blow the motor. i would hit up a sponsor, like wildcard, or whoever you're most comfortable with, and talk with them about it. a stock cyl 4mill, or serval, or something allong those lines could be good for the trails/woods, and general play. about 1200 can get your motor squared, and you can throw more money into the suspension