AKheathen

oh, also, the readings are at a certain temperature, and will change when it is hotter or colder. also, if you get the secondary to primary reading, the lower reading is going to be ground.

first thing- make sure you have a good battery in your dmm and a good zero adjust to go off of. cap reading nothing is bad, regardless. the coil sparks series from pne plug to the other, so it will run just fine if you get a good reading on the secondary from one coil to the next. i don't quite remember if it ever changed over the years, but the secondary should be split mid-point to ground terminal for a redundancy, in case the spark should fail on one side, then the other side will still spark. remember that the caps add 5k when measuring. as for the dyna coil- check the dyna site for specs. it will not be the same as stock, or it would just be another stock coil. the windings are different, hence the different reading.

well, now... don't you get a big fat fail for trying to compare testing procedures with honda and general 4stroke....... the banshee is neither. ok, here-s how it is- the testing procedure you get from this site is as such because it is reliable and proven, and many times proven problems and money down the drain as a result of deviation. so- wot, kick untill it stops moving. make sure the shrade valve is in the tip of the tester and just as long as the spark-plug. the test tells you the condition of the top-end. more then 5psi difference is bad, and you should pop her open. difference can come from stuck rings, melted or loaded pistons, different bore, uneven head, bad rod bearings bad port job....... you could also stick rings from a bad mixture loading them up with oil. and, yes, the bad compression can cause a sputter. 3 different things could be the culprit- bad plug cap(boot) carb adjustment (mixture, jet/passage, needle, or float height or valve condition) or reed seal. now, one thing- a topend will genereally run good right up untill the rings snap from being run too thin, if you keep it tuned well, but some compression drop will make the most symptoms at lower rpm's

2 most common in this case- the wires melted on the exhaust, usually at the side of the airbox, or where it would be, and te 2nd- the kieyswitch wire connection. i had this last year myself, and have seen allot with it- the wires, which move allot with steering, can start to break off the keyswitch solder joints. pull the keyswitch off and see how well it is connected to the wires. i just re-solderd mine back on. if you want to bypass, it's the red/black to ground(black) in the harness, or the 2 smaller gauge wires on the keyswitch side of the plug. also, sounds like possibly a bad stator. ohm it out on the red & green and red/white& green/white wires. last, check your coil ohms, and caps

lol, yes, i have heard of it. it's not a mod. i have not had one with it that way, but i have heard of it that way, and many have put the negative back on (-) and positive back in it's place, but really, when you look at how the banshee coil works(same coils as almost all twins of the period) you will see that it is one low voltage coil going across two smaller coils creating high voltage, which join at the chassis ground, but not at (-) or it would not run. so all you are doing is giong from making the spark circuit travel right plug->grond->left plug, to left plug->ground->right plug.... really no difference, imo, though there may be some improvement if your coil insulation is deteriorating and loosing spark to ground through the plasic/epoxy.... but then, you know you have a deteriorated coil, and should replace it anywhoo

have chased a few away, lol

lol, their kits are the same xentec and digitals, and stuff theat they sell on ebay......... well, at least they did change the stickers..... a tiny bit

well, i would not do it myself, and there is allot that i take on... if you must, have a scale handy to keep track of the material you are taking of, and ballance the pistons. read allot about it, and talk to people. really, ask some builders and have it done. if they say "i wouldn't suggest it" they really mean it for a reason. someone good and experienced at it will have the best shot you are going to get at not sacrificing strength. i would suggest asking brandon at wildcard..... i just bought postons where the windows are already ported....

... or use the search and type in clutch adjust....

look for the run-down trailer that smells like peanuts and has people still awake at 5am

"pc's" i mentioned..... real bad-ass pipes for power and range

oh, just forgot, you can get a doubble sided shifter, so you have the option of heel-click upshifts

yah, they recently, like in the past century, invented a secialized tool.... many call it by the pet name "impact gun"

no, just for the butseks

do not add extra oil..... do a couple heat cycle, retorque the head and go do a few plug chops..... then give her hell. keep a load on the engine, and th rings seat in the first 10-15, and you get the best ring seat ever

pretty sure you have a bad bearing somewhere. get a grip on the grab bar, and shove it side to side, and watch for play in the swing-arm, lift the front wheels off the ground and check for bearing play, check your chain slack after, and the chain rollers. do you notice any pulling, or play while riding?

well, 38-40's could get you some topend, noticable on the track maybe...... i love making the switch to lectron, though. they really are some bad-ass carbs, and real freakin easy to tune. there really isn't much more you can do, then some fine-tuning. which, is setting the timing how you like, keeping it jetted perfect, making sure your pipes put the power where you like, gear where you want, and finally, maybey have the cyls touched up, though not needed..... as for your build, you can't really do much aside from bumping the comp to different fuel, and keep it fine tuned. actually, if it is not really tuned well, there is some free power right there

the kicker idler gear has a bushing on the inside which does wear out quite notoriously. check out fast, i belive they have them, or the whole gear in stock for cheap

10mill, different pipes? actually, if you haven't adjusted the timing at all, then yes, that is what you want to do. the dyna is real nice to get you both top-end, and bottom end, by running the different curve, so you don't have to sacrifice one for the other. on top of that, the dyna is custom programmable, has launch and powerjet/ powervalve controlls, and tach output. i run one, and do not regret it. 4 curves to choose from with the flick of a microswitch.

i have 8x the posts as o.p..... just sayin,,,, oh, now 8.0001x as many...

well, your friend likely is trying to butter you up to get your carbs. the stock carbs have a fe issues. having cpi-s, our powerbadn suggests that you have appropriately sized carbs. a port job would be the next thing i would do. back to the task at had- need your elevation and riding temps

wtf do ypou guys find this shit/ yam up here wouldn't tugh 2-stork with the longest pole in the world....retards, really. did youa t least laugh at the guy?

my guess is the motherfucker needs to get the chassis to r&d test stages. a guy like that shold have a drop-in np, i would imagine...... i wanna see it fly motha

belive it or not, i run my "hemi head" 20cc domes on 90oct, at stock timing with absolutely no issues on stoc timing, 90 oct! and bumped it to 95, for ease of mix with 100ll. i beliv e that i could run them on my +5 timing, but would not dream of advising it, i know i am at the ragged edge of the fuel going with the availible 90, and risking it, even at 54.5 bore. that does bring up a point..... while the small range of stocke bore options (54-56.5mm) does not make much power as 4 stroke sites seem to claim, ti does play a bigger role on compression ratio, which will deide what domes are safe, ad what wil get you your desired power bump. most cases, it is a toss-up between 21 and 22cc domes, and you are right at the cusp. imo, take it or leave it, 20cc is fine, as long as you can recognize wht lean sounds and feels like. if you are thinking about it and don't know, best to go strait to the safe 21's. if you have the experience to know exactly what the slightest bit lean presents, then you can effectively gain a little more, but not much.... not enough to gamble on. p.s. i know it is possible to run stock stroke/bore/port on 19cc in a controlled env. on 93, so 20, is not that far off from the extreeme limits, but closer to safe. i just hate to see losing out on power in higher elevations. take or leave my buzzed advise, lol

lol, yah, that is a purdy wave, i might do that today, if i can remember....