AKheathen

um.....you ever own one and check it out?, or you just feel the need to randomly call shens?

actually, worse- the gears will walk away from each-other and mesh at the tips, which can, and will chew teeth off and unleash hell on the whole assy.

yah, i doesn't make a difference on the top-end wot, but it helps throttle response in the mid and low

there should be no play. i hate to tell you, but you are going to have to split the cases and replace at least that one bearing. one thing to look at- if your chain is too tight and/or your swing-arm bearings are bad, you can blow that bearing or crack the cases. you have to check out the trans clusters and bearings while you have it apart

lol, yah, you are going to see verry minimal difference between 64 and 66.5mm........like a fraction of 1hp. welcome to 2-strokes. power mainly comes from flow. cam, you are one sick mofo.....i puked in my mouth a little

left front, and right rear will take the load that the chain is putting on the engine. the other sides can be absent, or whatever you want to put there. i believe they are there to stop metal on metal contact, since the motor is vibrating in there anyways.

loosen the clamp, and turn the pod, if angled, or even just push it over, and tighten the clamp......... if that doesn't do it, rubber bands or zip-tie, like mentioned.....you can even do the same with the carbs in the intake boots...

you know, the dyna cdi's store greater energy to push stronger spark out of a stock, or dyna coil..........plus you get the custom curves...just a though

first question- how much are you willing to spend to get there?

he is stuck using pump, and has a coolhead, but the compression is currently too high with the domes he has, so had to go with the stock head setup... the pipes can work fine, but i would plan on something like cpi's...

it's best to do it right after a full moon, or getting laid, or your chi can provoke over-tightening..

yah, if you want to move to drag/dune, then it's time to move the porting durrations up some. already, you want to move the rpm's up for more power. i don't remmeber how your time/area is going to look, but i'll try to get you there again. what you have now is more of a dune/play or trail, depending on who you ask. think about how your power feels, and look into swapping the pipes out. it is also a good time to see the cylinder wear and burn pattern while you are in there. 30-31* blow-down is a good, safe place to be, but you can make the power more peaky and strong, or broaden it out by going more, or less........it's kind of a judgement call at this point, and if you are not gonna change pipes soon, you are restricted to the limits of the trinities....

not on my shee, but i did just go get some non-resistor wire (stock is non-resistor) for automotive and it fit in there just fine. that was on my ski-doo summit, which uses the same exact coil setup. i wouldn't think normal resistor wire would last long, and you would ha e to run non-risistor caps....so, yes, it works fine....the clips are tricky, though.

lol, this cracks me up ...many people make tools like that all the time for different things.......at work, we just cut one up out of sheet real quick and replace the bolts as they slip.....sometimes, it works better than a bought tool. and, about putting force on the key, the key is simply an alignment tool. with a good taper, it takes very little pressure, and the taper/cone locks on tight...and the more you tighten, the stronger it is locked in place, not being moved by the nut being torqued.........I've done both impact, and hand. i can tell you the clutch doesn't hold a static load as strong as you might think..........i just torque mine up to clutch slippage and call it good, and use an impact, or shock a breaker with a 3-4# to pop it off when it's been lock-tited.....never threw heat at it. there is a stator and magnets there for possible colladeral damage...

haha, nifty little trick on the welding "shield"....funny thing is- i bet it actually works......who the hell scabbed that turbo header up?.....so, why gusset the top, but not the bottom, where most of the load is?

maybe the guy selling it? anywhoo....maybey it's just me, but the frame does appear tweaked in the head-on pic, just looking at the plastics, bumper, skid, and arms.....kinda looks like an end-o impact on the right arm......

is one of those the one i bought? the one i have seems operationally fine, but i do think there could have been better welds and cuts on the channels.....i thought about cleaning it up some while i have it sitting there doing nothing but mock-up.....maybe i'll take it to work and temper it, too.... i also heard a rumor of some fake wcr drums, but i don't know how much merrit there is to the rumors...

ok, i don't know if you remember, but we have all been back and forth with you....it really doesn't make a huge difference if you want to do it that way, but pretty much everyone else just adjusts it with the screws.............like i've been saying...put it to rest..."to each their own" .....think back.............nothing ever came out of the disagreement, except dissagreement.....

imho, anyone who knows their shit about gearing, and gave the banshee trans a good once-over, would first notice the gear facing..... it's quite rough, and can stand a good surfacing...... actually, i believe getting a good cut on the gears is the hardest part. mapping/cutting a drum really pales in comparison to the gearwork. there is a lot more to it than just cutting a few dogs and throwing a shine on there. there is a trick that can keep all load off the forks full-time, save for durring gear selection. as for a deal- it comes to cost of what was done.........the drum bearing mod, gear cutting, and micro-polish can run 60-80, and a good used trans goes from 90-150, so it sounds like a decent deal to me....

i slid some fmf stingers on my pcp's...........after cutting like 3" off them....just measure up...i can tell you they union further back than stock, and most...

utter failure @ 60..... on the other hand, if there is decent penatration and no grinder burn, i say it should hold fine. isn't it drilled/tapped on a lathe out of solid dowel, not dom? that is good....we will just call them "bungs" because that is what they are, lol. mock the setup up and measure angles. camber, CASTER, and balljoint angles at the travel limits both compressed and extended. personally, i would much rather modify the simplistic shock tab, then grind on a shock......you are fabbin, aren't ya?

start with the standard things. remove your caps and wires and make sure the wires aren't ate away at the connection points, and ohm the caps. trim the ends of the wire before putting back together, regardless. next, ohm out all the grounds. the coil mount, the frame by the voltage regulator, and the engine. the engine ground is on the back of the timing plate. it's soldered to the cable retainer. the lighting grounds to the stator frame itself. of course, the black bullet connector needs to be good as well. check pickup gap and ohm stator/coil. odds are, you will find the problem in this process, but, sometimes, it's just a bad wound stator that tests good, or damaged flywheel. on rare occasions, the cdi can go bad.

haha, i understand, dude. i just don't personally like it. i've removed and flattened out slotted tabs on many things, from them being bent, and near impossible to adjust. similar to how you have to pound a valve cover flange flat when someone lost the tabs. i'm not gonna convince you, and you are not gonna convince me, so we should leave it at that...."to each their own"