AKheathen

get a pic of the "gold series" markings. if they are the glod series/sigiature series from the 90's, which they do look like the torque version of them, then they will take the same stingers as toomy, and that should be the same mounting/spacing as the cascade, and that actually does make them run better than the fmf stingers.

off the top of my head recollection, i don't even see it on the site. just contact a site sponsor and ask for a "stock needle" also, if you have some mods done, it may be a good chance to upgrade to a better suited needle.

just to clarify, it's actually coming out of the exhaust port? or is it coming from the bottom of the cylinfers, between the clyinders, or somewhere else? it helps to use a mirror, and check to see exactly where it comes out. could be the coolant line that drops off the head to the clutch cover, or could be coming from a bolt hole, or could have left out the plugs that go in the bottom of the cylinders, or, if you put a head gasket in there, then take it out.

yah, my nerf mounts space the pegs out a bit anyways, so i had plenty of room to dog-leg the lever a bit more. if you use tools on it, just cover with a rag to geep from marking

you can sinc it ok ....... id does not sound like tors at all. tors activates the killswitch, so it would cut off right away. it sounds more like your mixture is off and you just fouled one out, running on one cyl, which will sound like poo, and shake good. it really helps to measure the slide opening to start, but a good setting, iirc, is 1.75 turns from when the slide bottoms out on each side, though it may be different on the stock carbs. you will know if it idles real high, lol. turn your airscrews in untill seated clockwise, and back out 2 turns.(i am assuming you are completely stock, even with the snorkel attatched, or at least the airbox lid.) now, fire it up and get it hot (normal operating temp) and adjust the idle screws to get a good idle the same amount on both sides. likely, one pipe will be slightly mis-firing. adjust the airscrew on that carb 1/8 turn and wait about 10sec. for it to catch up to the mixture. now, feel the pressure coming out, if one is stronger, increase the idle on the other side carb to be even. now you have a basis to fine tune idle speed and mixture some more. ideally, you want to get it to it's highest idle with the mixture alone, and if it's real high, turn the idle down some and adjust the mixture again, remembering to allow it to catch up. typically, you are going to be in the 1-1/4 to 2-1/4 turn range on the airscrews. (remember that they control idle air flow that mixes with the pilot jet fuel, not fuel flow like a 4-stroke) once you have reached the highest idle, turn them in 1/8 turn. keep an eye on the idle speed, as it may drop a little, and you will have to go up a little. doubble check the exhaust pressures and you have the idle synced. now, shut it off and look at your windows on the carbs, a little tricky, but you can see them both at the same time. make sure slack is adjusted right, you generally want a good 1/8-1/4" slack in the throttle lever. now, while waqtching the slides, slowly depress the throttle and see which one moves first. you want them to start to move at the same time. you can either slack the one that moves first, or tighten the one that moves second, depending on how much cable slack/adjustment you have at the pertch. how you do this, is the cable retainers. you can pull back on the metal elbows untill they no longer lock the cable from twisting, then turn them, and be sure to seat them back into the retainer and stab the throttle all the way while wiggling the elbows to make sure. repeat as necessary. remember- if there is no slack in the cables, it can trip the tors switches, and is not good on cable life/condition. you can check for excess slack by stabbing the throttle and making sure it moves them enough for the little dots to appear fullly in the windows. if you have a throttle stop, this is where you adjust it to hit the screw, and not where it tightens the cable with the slides topped out. it will help with cable life. good luck.

i'm not sure what all pipes you can rum on the 10mill serval, but perhaps you should move to a more low-mid, or broad pipe choice. ridding trails and having a control issue, i would say that's just what you need, more torque back-up and control. it should pop up on it's own less, and allow you to get out, and back in it without loosing too much power. i would start with moving the pegs back up, though....

well, since your bike is not running away, look under your gas tank, you will see a tiny little black box with 3 wires going to a plug, then to a harness. disconnect that plug and see if it will idle. than read up on tuning your carbs. the manual will tell you pretty much how, but this site is more intuitive/experienced/informative. get familiar with the carb mantenance and adjustments and learn how to read what the bike is telling you, and it will last and perform well. .... oh, and if those idle screws stop, don't force them, just go the other direction because they are at the limits and the plastic will break

generally, no. you should still have strong enough spark to fire through both resistor caps, and the plug resistors. either the resistor plugs were bad, or you still have a developing issue, imho. then again, the one plug could have a cracked insulator, firing through the ceramic to the outter nut, which i have seen plenty of times

decscribe "built to the guild" as for as you electronics/wiring goes. what have you done? without knowing that all i can tell you is to start ohming your stator and coil, and chack your pickup gap on both sides of the flywheel. the last thing is to unplug your cdi and take the following readings of the harness- black to black/white- should be open, no continuity with the killswitch in run. black to black/red- should be closed (about 0 ohms) with the key on and then your stator readings can be first measured there. if you get a bad reading, go right to the stator. black to frame, engine bare metal, and coil mounting/black wire.

oh, by your comment in the other thread, i assumed you already posted and ohmed the coil. do so. first with the caps on the wires, then with them removed. you should be getting about 6kohms from just the coil secondaries. if you don't get a reading to either of the primaries, from the secodaries, that is ok, some don't, and don't need to. i believe you should be gatting a reading to the mouning bolt, which would be half the wire-to-wire reading one either wire to the mounting bolt. ohm the caps, too. they should be 5k caps, but could be 5, or zero ohm caps, in which case you should be running resistor plugs. i doubt it's your coil, but could either be the wires, or caps. if you get a bad reading off the wires, carefully unclip them at the couil and pull strait out, and test the prongs in the coil itself. don't forget to test the meter first.

yup

well, if that's your compression, then either you have some huge domes, large sqush clearance, or allot of porting. i would check your squish first, and make sure that your tester has the shrade valve in the verry tip, and as long as the spark plug. do you have a metal spacer under the cylinders? make sure you need to have recessed domes first. if you have a good squish (.060-.040, iirc) then, yes, you need to run the same type of domes that are clearanced for the extra stroke. typically, you can go higher than 145 on 91, but that should be fine. remember, if you are going off the dome size chart to figure your compression, then you have to factor in the extra 4mm of stroke, which does change the compression allot.

lol, if they are factory arctic cat intakes, then yes, they are mikuni. it's just a different mounting flange than the banshee. i missed where you said it was aftermarket intakes, so nevermind the boost bottle comment. it's just like most sno-go's used the same mikuni carbs, thought they are all different makes. at least now you know where you can source new intake rubbers in a pinch

first, check your plug caps and wires, by unscrewing the caps and tossing them in the trash, lol. really, check to make sure the wire is getting good contact in the caps, and the caps should ohm out. when you remove the caps, trim 1/4" off the end of the wires before screwing them back in. put fresh plugs in, and then the next step would be to cvarefully un-clip the wires from the coil and trim just the same. after that, check the pickup gap on both sides of the flywheel. cdi's never really go out, and if they happen to, then they completely go out and do not store enercy, and sometimes can be made to work for a little bit by smacking it. however, if you are, indeed, getting good blue spark on the one side, then it is definately not the cdi, because it fires the orange wire, which fires both sides at the same time, so if one is good, then it is getting good power from the cdi.

well, if the slide/cable sticks and you have a tether, you can either pull the tether, or hit the killswitch to kill it, other than that, it will still run normally. the tors is just a series of switches known to fail often, and has no programming at all.

if you go with the keyswitch, then yes, you want it closed (completes the circuit) when installed. if you go with the tors rout, then you want it open. i still would unplug the little black box under the gas tank and use the 2 black tors wires, because eventually, the tors system will malfunction, leaving you stranded without spark. when you unplug that box, it completely disables the tors. if you are dead set on keeping the tors active, as a rare few do, then you can, but familiarize yourself with how it works, do not force the idle screws, as that is sure to damage it in a way that it will activate. either way, with ot without tors, you need to make sure you clean your carbs and lube the cables regularly, usually annnually, when bringing it out of storage, and/or putting it away. all it does is kill the spark if a slide or cable sticks

i would have to not really agree with you there. diesel is actually really flammable when you look at it in even relativity. if you bring both fuels up to the same close distance before their flash point, basically needing to heat the diesel, the diesel has the potential for greater energy. it's just that it needs a little more provocation to get going. and, to answer your question, putting some diesel in your gas tank on an older car that has a "knock" or deto, will stop the deto, and technically, would actually be raising the octane rating, without actually raising the octane. what we are actually seeing rated is the detonation resistance, not actual octane content. otherwise, 100oct. would be the highest you can go, and would be 100% octane, where really, all these fuels are a medley of differnt things. volotility is a whole different story.

well, not stock, lol....they could be anything, really. no numbers? color? likely from an overpriced jet kit, or toomey needles for their pipes....

you will notice when you removed the tors box under the gas tank, that there is 3 unused wires. black, black/white, and yellow/black. forget the yellow/black, and use the black, and black/white. black is ground, and black/white is the kill, connected to the same wire used for the kill-switch on the handle bars. this would be for a switch that is open to run. for the tusk switch, it may come with a plug on it, and would be a closed to run. simply cut the plug off of it and wire in series with the black/red wire by cutting it somewhere and making it run through the switch before going to the key. then, you still have use of the key, and the switch. some, also just wire a open to run switch between ground and the orange coil wire, though i do not like the idea. however, they swear by it working fine. this, to me, would be for a race bike that has had the harness trimmed down to nothing but the bare essentials to produce spark. i still prefer just wiring it strait to the unused tors wires...

if you have a boost bottle, that will do it no problem. cold will wage hell on them, and the pods and tors cable boxes can put extra dynamic load/stress on them. degreaser can dry them out, which you could tell by playing with them and the whitening, but shouldn't hurt if you don't let it sit for too long. i would say that minor surface cracking is normal from my experience, but not deeper cracks, wthout reason

if it fell of while riding, replace it with new vacuum line. likely the reason you just did a topend.

also, make sure your carb bowls are on the correct carbs. there is a right and a left. the one that goes on the choke carb is drilled out and has the choke jet installed in it. you can see from the outside by looking on the side of the bowl that faces the cylinder and you will se a little brass bb in just the one bowl. it really sounds like it's just not getting fuel, and i'm assuming you choked it to start it. have you pulled the plugs and look at what they are telling you? if you do not find anything in the fuel, airleak, spark, or comression area, look at your pipes/silencers for restriction/fuel/debris, and check the reeds for cracking or gapping

if it has domes installed, screw in a sparkplug and push them out. if that takes force, you can put the brunt force on the plug with the head propped up on a piece of wood or 2 on the bench to give room for it to pop. after that, you can pry on the inside of it with a heel-bar or something without damaging a mating surface. it's probably just stuck on the dowels and/or cooked o-rings, so try to pull evenly, not dick-eyed

if you don't need the features/programming, stick with the oem cdi and look at a coil setup for stronger spark, and the timing can be adjusted with a timing plate if that's what you are after.

remove the stator, clean where it makes contact with the timing plate and re-install. remove the wire retainer from the back of the timing plate and do the same (engine ground) clean the bullet connectors and check the harness plugs. check the frame ground at the back where the voltage regulator mounts. make sure the coil mount is clean. make sure the flywheel magnets are still in place and evenly spaced. (screwdriver should stick to 12 even places on the inside of the flywheel. make sure you have new caps screwed on the plug wires. if you don't find it after that, then check the kill/key switches. i'm assuming the tors box is completely unplugged, and the wires not connected to anything...