AKheathen

just moove the clips back to middle already and see how it is.

^^^^he said "pounding the balls" :rotflmao:

no, reeds do not prevent it........ go take the airbox off a large 2-stroke, like in a sno-go and watch the fuel spray.... with perfectly functioning reeds

you must have cataracts.... they do something to any pulsed intake. that's like saying a muffler only works on v8's

your mains set 3/4-full throttle range, so if you are good there, then play with the needle for 1/4-3/4 throttle range.

pics/ shipping quote on that +2 swinger? 99516 zip

not really. maybey about half that....... YAMAHA researchers developed the "boost bottle", which was really just an intake resonator for single cylinder engines, both 2 and 4 stroke to dampen the pulses, and absorb back-spitting through the carb venturri for more precise tuning. in all reality it works to do just that, but boosts nothing. now, on a twin.......... well, YAMAHA resolved this bu re-directing the back-spit to the other intake, which would be just beginning, or amidst intake cycle, depending on the rpm and the time delay to reach the other cylinder. adding the resonating chamber in the middle of it did nothing but hinder this effect, and create an additional delay, where you will only see the pulse work correctly at lower rpm's, and with less pressure. plain and simply, no worky. besides, none have been manufactured with the proper spacing for stock intakes, so they tend to rip them wide open and melt the piston(s)... nuff said

i don't remember where i read, but i also did allot of research on them, and there is different ratings for several different operating conditions. not only having to do with lubrication and load, but cooling as well. just what my research finally came to in the banshee application. i do agree about the rod bearings. i tried to get some hd rod bearings on there with more pins that were also wider, but time ran short. i can't remember, but i believe it's twister that has them

regular clamshell bearing splitter/puller....... remember, it is also a splitter, not just a puller. do it all the time on all kinds of bearings. back it against something solid, like a heavy steel table/bench, or metal blocks if you don't have it. then, hammer it in there as you tighten and it will "split" the bearing away from the crank seat enough to safely pull it off with a t-puller...... i was actually going with the same rout of all max-load bearings on my lower rpm 4mill, but found out that it is usually a bad idea, because they are too rigid and can damage the crank. also, 7-8ballers are a little better for higher rpm's. "max-loads" or any brand maximum capacity you put on there usually has a max speed well under 9k. actually, even the 7-ball bearings see rpm's higher than they are rated, but not usually sustained much at all.

well, yes, you could pull it out, but that would probably require you to go up one jet size. best way to rule out a plugged air filter is to just clean it. as for carb cleaning, it's more like when you change the oil, is probably a good idea, or a couple times a year if you ride somewhat regularly. as for the tors, that is a negative switching circuit that grounds the killswitch wire when it does not see a ground from the carbs both resting, or the throttle out of the idle position. you can disable it by unplugging the little solid state box under the gas tank. as mentioned, first thing to look at is the spark plugs. they tell you what is going on in the engine. rich, lean, detonation, head gasket, mis-fire, or no/weak spark, etc. they only last a while if you keep it tuned real good all the time, which most don't tune to the weather, and such, so it is common to simply foul a plug. you should, however pull the carbs and clean them, as well as check the jetting in there, since you haven't yet. only do 1 at a time, and don't forget to put everything back the way you took it apart. one thing to keep in mind is to drain the deposits and water out of the bowl drain screws in the bottom on a regular basis. i try to remember to do it after, and sometimes before/durring each ride.

what do your spark plugs look like, too?

what is the difference between cylinders? generally 90psi is the rebuild point, but a good seated set that gets regular use and no sticky build-up can pump out good right up until the day they snap from being worn down. a quick check is the best way to be safe, and you might want to just plan on a re-ring

adjust it so that you can just push 1/4-1/8" in the case lever..... i would just run whatever decent wet clutch compatable oil you can get locally. just make sure it's not the 4stroke engine/trans oil because of the friction modifiers. you can also run atf type f, but you have to change it a bit more often

that's just the Chinese 49cc pocket bike modded with bolt-on kits. i got a big bore kit for mine for like $35. i'm sure you could build the same bolt-on mods for under $500 plus the cost of the bike...... though, he probably built it over 5 years ago when shit was expensive.

so, just what is wrong with toomy? depending on your setup, and how far you are going with the motor, tr6's might be good for you...

wtf is "big dune" port style? dune/drag? anyways, elevation will play a factor, but if your cyls are within 5psi of each-other, then your rings should be just fine. cranking compression is pretty much just for checking ring/piston condition. you can put out 130 and still be at the limits of pump fuel, and you can crank near 180 and still be safe. so, post your elevation, and a better porting description, and the compression ratio will decide

good/bad, you still cannot ignore the fucked up jetting, lol.

well, read the damn thread dummy

well, you see, there is about 300-350 wraps per pole on the ignition winding, depending on manufaturer and wire size. i've seen where corners were cut to speed things allong, and the wraps were nit real organized, which they need to be to a certain degree, in order to make power... hell i even wrapped one of my first ones in somewhat of a hurry, and did it all over again after installing it to test.

so, you took the clutch pressure plate off and the ball rolled out? pull your plates and keep them in order. clean them with brake cleaner, re-oil them in the same oil you use in the case, and put it back together, making sure the ball is in there, and the plate slides all the way on the hub. if the plate does not slide all the way, don't force it, just turn 1 spring hole. there is also arrows that one should point at a dot on the basket. now, adjust the clutch via the screw in the middle, and use a drop of blue loc-tite to make sure it doesn't come loose. then, hook the slave back up and verify that it is, or isn't moving the clutch plate. i don't see what tools you need, but you should be able to bleed it just fine on your own. keep the rez full and strap/clamp it to the bench or something next to the bike, higher than the master, and bleed just like a brake caliper.

well, all those 2 circuits run is lighting, so yes you can, but you only need to if you want to run a battery, or hid/led setup. pretty simple, once you remove the ground from where it is soldered on to the middle of the stator, attatch a new wire (leave the black wire alone, that keeps the engine grounded) now, you have the 3 wires that you can hook up 1 of 3 ways. first, you can get one regulator/rectifier and run one of the yellow wires and the new wire, you can run a 2nd and do the same, or you can get one 3-phase/dual input, and run both lighting circuits off that. just hook positive out to your lighting circuit and neg. to ground. there is also some setup with battery out and power out, too, to keep from draining the battery during long storage. i don't remember where, but there is directions on the site somewhere.

yes

probably smoked by now, but have you adjusted it yet? one thing to keep in mind with the new clutch. if you don't keep free-play in it, it will smoke again, and probably weld the ball.

no, you can't release, but if you can't move it in the free-play by hand, you are a pussy, or have a problem.....

well, there's a "professional jetting" for you. if those are stock carbs, then the retards upped it one size from a factory setting, and asking to blow it up. i don't remember the toomey2-1 filter kit, but i belive that is no airbox, in which case, i would start around 290 mains, but be prepared to move 2 sizes either way. if they are not mikuni carbs, then the size was rich to start, and way over-board now.... of course, as stated, the rm is not known for first time reliability, and you have it all. so, once you get in the proper jetting range, then see if you are getting spark problems