AKheathen

well, you are going to have to have the cases trenched for the 10mill anyways...... and the port timings would be way off. you are also taking a bout a 3mm jump in one-way stroke. the best way is to just get new cylinders, but i belive it may be possible to run a spacer, recessed domes, and re-port, which might run just as much as you would spend buying new cyls and selling the old kit.....

why you running 100oct?.... and the 2-1 doesn't really match the rest, but 'eh...

don't forget about gearing...... you are a little on the low side, imo. that just shortens the gears, especially with a low-mid setup. another option, if you want cyls, is a serval setup

drain it all out, and run it in your lawn mower. try again. i don't know what the hp2 is, but likely it's having compatability issues with the evenrude oil and separated/sludged

you misspelled wiring......

nice for you to go through with making the vid..... i know i, and some others have planned on it, but never went through with it, lol........ anyways, i just have some things to point out, mainly terminology...... 1- the 2 tubes on the side are vent tubes. the overflow tube its the diagonal one inside the bowl that bypasses the drain screw. it is real common to see that people have over-tightened, and even stripped the drainscrew, not knowing this. 2- the airscrew is just an airscrew, and not called anything else, aside from "idle air mixture" 3- what you refer to as the needle jet, is just the needle. the tube it goes into is generealy the needle jet, which also holds the main jet. fun fact about banshee/blaster carbs- to the best of my knowledge, they are the only carbs that have replaced the needle jet with an emultion tube, which should also be cleaned. the tube is held in by the main jet washer, so it is real important to not loose that washer when you remove the main jet. 4 one reason to remove the main jet, is that it holds that plastic shield on, which is blocking access to remove the pilot jet, which should be removed, to make sure it is not blocked by debris/build-up, or even to change it out for tuning needs. 5- for purposes of ordering new, the float "plunger and jet" are actually called the float "needle and seat"... it is a good idea to make sure the shock spring moves ok inside tha back of the float needle, where it rides the float tang. also, very important to get that wire on there the way it came off, or could cause issues. also, point ut that you want to closely inspect the rubber (sometimes metal) tip for cracking, or hard glazing that is indented. you can blow through the fuel line, and actualte the needle to check for good seal 6- the range of the jets/needles. the main jet is in use from 1/4 to wot. it is 3/4 to wot that is all set by main jet size, and 3/4- under 1/4 throttle that the needle adjusts the main jet flow. idle to about 1/4 is pilot jet and airscrew. just under 1/4 throttle is the blending of the 2 circuits... imho, it's good to have most of the components removed to spray down the body/passages

first thing i would do is split the case and see......... it could be that you left out a circlip, or have a bent fork, or even that the gears are loaded up with clutch material, or even a bearing. either way, something is not lined up, and you should feel it in the shifter if there was a problem with the star, or shift arm..

yup, unwrap your harness, and completely remove the yellow/black wire(s) and their connectors, allong with the green/yellow wire. personally, i would like to leave 3-4" length of the extra black/white wire for the option of connection a kill/tether to it later. good spot for a hidden kill switch. as for getting rid of the keyswitch, the bike will not run without the black/red wire grounded, so keep that in mind with whatever you want to do....

true, you never want to go chopping on vf reeds.... that's why they make the stuffers....

well, one huge difference in riding a street bike vs. banshee....... generally, you do a lot of jogging the load on the bike on the streets...... which is the condition i mentioned earlier..... and they are usually more torque than some gears in the stock banshee clusters can handle on the gearfaces anyways....

check your axle-to sprocket splines, and chain adjustment

also, don't forget it could be poor coolant condition, lack of air passing through radiator, and resivior hoses backwards........ and this thread is real freakin old, man, lol...

what it decreases in durability, is that there is a large distance for the gears to slam between loadings. basically, don't jog the load between throttle/decell and it should be good and hold as much power as the gear faces can handle. what concerns me is that face chatter i could see. i would be looking more at that, as worn bushing(s) or debris. generally, a cutting/grinding wheel is not used, but it can help getting through the hardened surface, like cutting the top of the cog, so you can more easily get a mill, or carbide bit in there, and cooling/cutting oil of some sort really helps for heat, clean-out, and keeping the shavings/cuttings localized for cleanliness. i rarely get shavings from anything more than 2' from my work, and it's all wipe-up cleaning... as for the temper/heat of the metal, rule of thumb- blue/black spots indicate that you have reached/exceeded the temper point of the metal, which is bad, since it is highly localized and will stress the heck out of that area from the thermal expansion/contraction, so you want to avoid that. either way, by cutting the dog, you have physically/literally removed that portion of the tempered metal, so.......duh. what's under it is not tempered, since the temper does not go all the way through the metal. only way to get it back is to have the whole gear relaxed, then tempered as a whole, but it does not matter that much, since there is no longer much stress/load on that area anyways...... so, ugly cuts, well yah, but that's mostly aesthetics that don't much matter, unless there is anything left to catch. only thing i could see having any problem, is the nicks to the backside if the teeth. there was temper there, but not likely anymore..... in short, the cutting wheel is not the best choice to use start-to-finish, but is ok, if you don't want to buy, or have carbide or mill options in your arsenal.....

personally, i would just hook the switch to either the black/white wire, or black/red, depending if it is no vs nc. should be more reliable on the coil circuit, as well...

well, then appreciate this comment- "ditch the boost bottle and go back to the stock tube" if it hasn't killed the intakes yet, it will. and one more thing- check your tip-over safety balls in the fuel cap, and vent hose. those can plug it up and keep you from getting decent fuel to the carbs.

first thing- you do not re-connect any of the tors wires on any year. your killswitch probably just needs a cleaning, however, if the wire came off the back of the switch, then it can touch ground and kill the spark. make sure the black/white wire is not seeing ground. make sure the black/red does with the key on. check for melting at the exhaust pipe. most likely thing- your flywheel spun off. very common with recent removal. you need to torque it on the flywheel, and use blue loctite. i believe it's 80ft-lbs on the nut, but you can just run it on with an impact. do not ever stick anything in the holes to hold it steady, rather, lock it in 6th and hold the brake, if you don't have an impact. the best way is to stick a penny in the gears if you have the clutch cover off already. also, it should never be that hard to get it started. if cold, 2-3 kicks max with the choke, and 1-2 kicks no choke when hot/warm...

while you are in there replacing the clutch basket, check the shift arm bearings for play. that can take some travel out of your shifting, and yes, it is normal to accidentally find neutral once in a while, especially under load. also, there is a shift arm mod you can do, just do a search on it on the site...

ok, lemmie just break the machine lathe out the closet right quick, lol..... of course, it might, oddly enough, be a good option for areas like mine, where the only places capable of boring small cyls suck ballz......

to answer your q- yes, it can present with poor/inop lighting power, but doesn't mean that it always will, or be pronounced........ as for your readings, iirc, they are in spec, but on the low side. 2 things you could do. either take a reading while it is hot and malfunctioning, and/or simply do a visual inspection of the ignition windings. if they look pretty brown and all crispy, there is your answer. as for the cdi, they rarely go out, but if you want to test it, there is 2 methods- one, smack it when it is giving problems and see if it changes, or 2- swap with a good known working one. if you are sure about the every 2-3 kick sparking, that is characteristic of low stator output. (the cdi, by definition, needs to charge up before sparking)

well, i just lost a lot of respect for amsoil as a whole...... not trying to start a pissing match, but plain and simply put, pre-detonation is just not a real word, it is a made-up conjunction of pre-ignition, and detonation. while, deto can, and usually does lead to pre-ignition, if allowed, they are 2 different effects. there has been countless long drawn out threads and posts on this forum, and others, that lay it all out in high detailed description and differentiation, but trust me, that is just how it is. pre-ignition: any time the air/fuel mixture ignites prior to it's designated time. primarily caused by excessive heat, high compression, or the combination of both, possibly as a result of detonation... detonation: any uncontrolled ignition/burn. usually present as an erratic burn pattern abnormal of the healthy flame front, but becomes detectable when it is pronounced enough to penetrate the gas barrier that surrounds all surfaces of the combustion chamber. once that point is reached, it can escalate, and even invite pre-ignition from the hot spots. also, pre-ignition occurring other than the normal ignition point can lead to immediate detonation from the unbalanced double ignition flame fronts..... that's just the short of it...... ... as for trinity, well, lets just say not to put too much faith in their intimate knowledge.... they basically just make the stuff. noss has a real conservative chart, and bore size should always be taken into concideration, as the ratio will be different from stock to 65.5mm. also, running higher octane than required by too much will rob power as well, for instance- stock bore/port 21cc domes, +4timing, 1000'asl, should be plenty fine well in the safe side with 93 octane. now, you go and mix it up to 50/50, you loose a few ponies, and drivability running 97.5, or 101.5oct (whichever you are mixing).... i can tell you for sure that a stock port/.020" bore/20cc +5.5timing etc, absolutely does not like strait 100LL avgas. lost all kinds of snap and torque before dropping back down under 95...

that's normal. as for magnets on the inside, they should be evenly spaced x12..... ohm out your stator and pickup red-green, red/white-green/white. double check the wiring, especially by the exhaust..

describe the spark. is it not blue, or intermittent, like every 3rd kick? do you have a meter to ohm out the stator? did you hook up the cable retainer on the back of the timing plate (engine ground) did you set the pickup gap? did you use the proper flywheel puller made for it?

same thing, and check your jetting. see what your plugs have to say when it happens....

whatcha need?

i take it the yellers are 40's?