AKheathen

i knew i would catch shit for this, but no i'm not. boost bottles do work, but there are some calculations involved, not just bolt on power. i don't have time to go into the details on how, but this will smooth out my low r's when i need to do some ridding at lower speeds. then i can stick my tube back on otherwise. so what size are the bottles (cc's or dimensions)?

air screw too lean or chek for air leaks between the carbs and juggs by spraying starting fluid there while it idles. i wouldn't suggest tearing into the electronics without testing the spark and adustments first.

boysen reeds-is that the whole valves or just the reed element? also i'm looking for blue or black or even yellow upper cowling, mine came with red. also, do you have a boost bottle? mine came with a cross over pipe that might be robbing power.

my friend had this same problem with his f5 and when a ring stuck we found that he put one of the pistons in backwards-now she screams.

you should be carefull climing that bike. it's hard enough keeping the front end down with the 2 stroke and the 250 will make it twice as jumpy when it grabbs. you should probbably run a longer swing arm and give her hell. i just bought a banshee to fix my issue with it because no one can ride here without first getting tossed on their back

use a mud tire with large deep lugs and swing by a tire shop to have them syped, not too much on the sides or they could tear part of a lug off. run just enough air that it won't spin the tire off the rim and they will perform awesome on the ice, snow, and wet terrain off season. trust me i know ice and snow- alaska heathen

dear matt, with that miligned setup, you will have to make adjustments to talor one type of ridding style. you see the 2 stroke us designed to depend highly on the scavenging effect providded by exhaust backpressure and reflective pulses from the pipe. the factory setup was designed for all around riding and the more you mess with that to gain power where you want it the more it will only work right there. baisically, when you tuned the carbs, it was not "warmmed up" to how you are gonna ride it. i think your exhaust is pushing air that is too hot for the mixture back in to the cylinder when it's warmed up. what i would suggest is to moove the needle 1 or 2 knotches richer (mid throttle) pull the silencers from your cans, and go up one jet size. you may also have to swithc to br9 plugs if they glaze (look wet but aren't) also you will have to ride the engine harder most of the time, 6 tanks of gas is a granny break in. just cruise around with 10-15 second hard accelerations every 2 min should have had it broke in within 25-45 min (you'll feel when the rings seat- it's awesome)