AKheathen

actually, i don't think the tors is triggered, or designed to be triggered by the water effect, iirc........ tors was an idiot-proofing for physically stuck cables, since they know few people will actually get in there and lube them as often as they should, or even put it back together right..... the banshee/blaster, to the bast of my knowledge, have the only carbs that utilize an emulsion tube of that design, and the enormous airjet to accommodate it's use..... that is the reason, i tend to lean toward that as the culprit...... maybe one day, if i get bored enough, i'll set up and tune a stock carb with a conventional tube and appropriate air jet, and see if that nixes the issue..... or one of you guys are welcome to run the tests......

on there now? pro-circuit platinums with plder fmf silencers..... why? because pcp's are the best mid-range pipe out there that yeild a lot of grunt, awesome mid, yet can still rev if you need to pull the gear a little higher. the stingers just work good.... well, they are kind of fallin apart now, so i'm swithching back to 304 silencers..... also have old school gold series top-end pipes, which didn't shine until i mated them with toomey stingers. i believe fmf silencers are their only downfall, to otherwise ok pipe. they all seem a little "large bore" compared to the pipes they mate them too. the pcp's are also a higher flow pipe, so the mate is decent. for what you have planed, the 916's will do you good, and a nice price to boot, if they are in decent shape, and not missing the stinggers...... also, some t-5'sw, and lrds in the arsenol, but yet to do a full run-down on both...

i didn't get to read up an all the merged threads, and anything since yesterday, but anyways, you are experiencing what happens with stock banshee carbs..... throw any other aftermarket carbs on there and the problem goes away. you just have to burn off the moisture in the carbs and it will go back to normal. you can alternate the choke to burn it off, like when starting it after washing, or in a humid morn..... i used to just ride it out after crossing a creek...... i cannot tell you exactly what the phenomenon is, only speculate as to the venturri effect, or to do with the emultion tube in place of needle tube. on the stock carb, the air jet is freakin huge, basically a gaping hole, and i suspect that lets water in around with the fuel in the emultion tube, and it has to clear out to let the fuel pass, yet air can still get into the needle socket..... long story short- i don't think it's really fixable.... aside from swaping carbs, or keeping any water out..

you, my friend, have been dooped...... first off, it is possible to run as small as 19cc deto free, though most will never get away with it...... i have safely ran 90oct. on 20cc domes, and .020" bore for long periods in the trails/woods. 2nd, octane booster is junk. you add it to 93 at max ratio, and the best stuff out there will only get you close to 94, but not quite, and just run hotter. now, you throw the timing advance in there, however, that all changes, and yes, you need to go higher than 90oct. with 20cc's. bore size will also effect it as well, of course. and last, "pre detonation" is not a real word. as for the pro-circuits, that is a great choice in low-mid pipe, because it can still rev out with power nicely, and has just about the strongest mid-range in it's class. it just doesn't respond as well as pipes like the ptrmids, tr6's, etc, right off idle, since they like a little more flow than stock, by nature. really, you should have used the rebuild as an opportunity to stroke it to 4mill. the vf3's should be getting you plenty of crisp power everywhere, but the boysens can offer up some amount of finite control without dropping power. as for the rim size, i stick to 9's for many reasons. for you, you might like the fact that the tire will balloon more at higher speeds, and become an even taller tire. right now, i would go back to a stock length swinger. i could only imagine what a bear it is to navigate the trails with an extended...

yes, get a meter and ohm everything out.... the caps are usually the first to go, and of course, plugs.... i'm sure everyone has had a plug drop off once or twice durring a long hard pull. ohm out the stator, make sure the black/white wire is not getting ground, and that the black/red wire does (keyswitch run). look for melting of the harness on the exhaust under the seat. check pickup gap on both sides of the flywheel (a sparkplug box flap works good) and, do not ever try to remove the flywheel without the puller, unless it has spun loose on it's own....

lol, so yes, you have a dual output, just like all the other 250watt stators on the market. 1 output is 100 watts, and the other is 150. just keep that in mind when adding on- one will see a nominal 75watts, and the other 100-115 watts, then the rectifier losses of about 5-10 watts. if you come to the point of needing to tap into the other output, you are going to have to parallel another rectifier, and tap into the floated ground output.

well, stock size carbs are awesome, especially at the verry bottom, even below idle, so just doing a tors removal will make them do good. however, before you sink money into the tors removal, take them out for a normal hard ride, and any moist/wet conditions that you will be going through. if they give you problems with run-away after getting wet, you can find a nice pair of 28mm. i was origionally planning on 28mm flatslides for my 4mm ported woods/hill-shooter built, but found a great set of lectron 30's, and went with those. as for the airbox, there is many options. you can find drop-in filters and k&n power lid filters, there is a billet adapter that you bolt in place of the stock filter, and you clamp on a large cone k/7n style filter (most popular), and you can modify your stock lid by drilling holes and inserting the little foam plugs, whole new aftermarket boxes with dual pods, or single, free-air pods, etc. you just have to think about the level of water you are going to see. personally, i stuck to the billet adapter and only run a lid in certain conditions.....and i cross rivers/streams up to 2' deep. a good outterware is your best friend there.

because the stator is ac, not dc, so there is no +/-. you have to float the ground, which means you remove where it attatches to the stator frame and add a 2nd wire to put to the rectifier. the rectifier, is just a bunch of diodes that let the ac current only go one way like a check valve, and so, you get a bunch of single direction power. o.p.- i assumed you had a standard 250watt, which usually comes with 2 outputs, not just one, so you would end up with 3 wires after floating. my bad.

go take a ride first and pay attention to what is holding you back. most liely, you want to drop the front sprocket, so you can lug it down more over roots and stuff. learn how to tune the carbs real well, and keep the silencers packed. one thing to think about- the stock carbs tend to freeze open a bit with moisture, so plan your airbox and maybe carb upgrades accordingly. smaller carbs will do better in the low end, and stock size can work well up to the 70-80hp range. skid-plates are pretty essential, sae for the rear skid. they have been known to get bent into the sprocket and rotor and hang you up in the middle of nowhere. keep an eye on your swingarm bushings, sprocet splines, and chain adjustment. you can snap a chain in the woods in no time if they are worn out.... other than that, whatever suspension you can get away with upgrading will do you well, as already covered. oh, and one last thing- boysen reeds are probably going to be your best bet for power and drivability. the power reeds will run the smoothest down low and not have so much snap to them, and the pro reeds will be real crisp all across the range.

what's happening, is you have build-up on the back-side of the screws. you don't have the snap-ring in the end that can be removed? if you cannot get to the back and clean them good, just keep spraying with penitrant and working them in and out. cut them a little shorter before putting back in. worst case scinario, back tham out untill they are just not stuck, then cut the head and make a slit in them, then you can run them through the other way once you have it apart, or even grab with vise grips from the back and run them through.

well, if they told you to connect the positive and negative to the same pole, then they are retarded.... yes, there are grounds on the frame that the lights use, but there is also the black wire. and, the wires don't care if they see ac, or dc. all the wires care about is that they get connection, only a certain amount of current, and that you pay the child support on time. chances are, you still have a problem with one of the black wires in the harness, and that can affect more than just the lights. i would go through the harness, find the problem, and do your upgrade to handle more current. so, you have a rectifier with 3 input wires? or are you just running the 150watt winding?

ok, what you are describing is not a clutch issue. when the clutch is slipping, it will rev a little higher tha it is actually moving under load, or take a while to kick-in, just revving for a bit when you let the clutch in. it sounds to me, like a couple things to look at. first, your shifter may have too much slop, and 2nd, you may want to try a better oil in the gearcase, but really, that is a trait of the banshee. when you have it under load, you have to either blip off the throttle, or clutch it real quick to shift. and, it is normal to have trouble finding neutral while running. some practice, and making sure your shifter assy is tight. there is little bearings on the shaft where it crosses to the other side, and the splines can wear out. as for clutch replacement, first thing to check is the adjustment. you have to have some play that you can feel before it hits the clutch to release, or there can be damage done with the pushrod and ball being under coinstant load, not getting oil. and, as the clutch wears, the play gets tighter. for good brand clutch to go with, tusk is a good, proven replacement brand, for quite a bit of modding/abuse, but the next level, i would go to a fast clutch kit. it's actually what i have in my bike, along with a lock-up, but that is a whole other story. there is also stiffer springs that hold the clutch harder.

for this one, you just hook the stator lighting both ends, after you float the ground, to the yellow wires. doesn't matter which. and, then you have the DC red (+) and black(-) you should have the battery switched, though, because any diode can have a slight reverse bleed over time.

http://www.parkeryamaha.com/universal12vrectifierregulatorsnowmobile.aspx

actually, what you describe suggests that it has nothing at all to do with the tors systems. either 1of 2 things happened. first, you could get water to the filter, or even in the carbs float bowls themselfs. that will change the jetting, basically, by restricting the filter, and making it pull more fuel and get excessively rich, or blocking the jetting if it's in the float bowl, and stopping the main jets, which can usually make it lean out, which would show up as a lean run-away at times. next, could be water getting into the electrical, usually effecting corroded connections around the stator/flywheel, or at the coil/plug wires. a little tearing into it can show you where either is happening. as for the tors........ there is nothing mystical or complicated about it. lack of understanding makes people point at it for every weird thing. the Throttle OverRide System is real simple. it is consistant of basically 4 switches. there is one in the thumb lever, which grounds at rest, 2 in the carbs, which ground when the slide pulls down at idle, and the little black box........ yep, it, too is just a switch. it connects to the same black/white wire that you trigger with the killswitch, ground, and the other 3 switches. whe it does not see ground through the other 3 switches(either the throttle, or both the carbs) it switches the black/white to ground. when you spark gets killed i wierd ways, it's usually because one of these switches went bad. usually from corrosion, wiring damage, or forcing the idle screws, once they have bottomed. the p-brake limiter, is a whole other circuit. it simply triggers a low rev limiter if you forget to release the p-brake. it, too, is susceptible to damage form riding, or elements. long story- short. don't waste too much time barking up the tors tree, and look at your filter and ignition wiring. a little di-electric does wonders. but be sure to use the right one on the plugs. "tune-up grease" at your local parts store counter. ....ps, there is a bigger problem when you get the stock carbs real wet...... idk, if it's a lean cond. from plugged jets, or venturri freezing, but they like to run-away. i usually, just ride it out, and let heat flash the moisture out, or play with the choke on/off, if i just washed it.

i can't disagree more about the spark-plug shattering from detonation alone. go grab one and hit it with the torch. not a bic lighter, but a torch. it can pop real quick. one thing i would be looking at more closely, especially after the first time chewing a plug, is the crank bearings, dome seat, head plane, and deck plane/surface. also, you can check your timing with a light, and such, you know?

oh, yes, i stand corrected "time/area" still tired right now, but this is one thing i'm seeing, that we generally speak in durations, in terms of degrees, but really, it is time/area. although you are not actually changing duration, you are still manipulating the time/area of the port "duration"....... so, what i am saying, is that it may still have something like a 188, or whatever your cylinders are at, but manipulation of the time/area can change the actual output to be different than the degrees suggest. for example, that 188* can be shaped to run like 190*, or 186*.... i know you like examples, so here is a great one showing just this- the serval cylinders. everyone looks at the numbers, and grunt enthusiasts tend to jump for joy, and proclaim that they are built to be and "shine" as more of a low-mid torqer than advertized. others, are seeing it as a little on the low side to believe the claims fully. in reality, time/area has been aptly set so that it can definitely turn the revs, and pull up top, yet have the strong mid-low, as it was designed. now, don't get me wrong, i'm sure there is something to be had with the more abrupt "popping" as you put it, but you will likely see it as a result of higher compression, and the blow-down should be increased as a result. i believe that if you do not account for it in this way, you may find that it will actually be a bit more peaky than expected, but you can factor it with your transfers to broaden the power back out. and, as you mentioned, scalloping for testing the transfers' time is not an issue with you to see, without irreversibly cutting on the transfers themselves. you can also open it up and cut again, so you can test both ways, as well.

hey man, i was just wondering what happened to you. you still into the comp software repair? that stator doin good?

the only way you are going to get your answer is by pulling the clutch cover off and checking things. the shift star, or detent roller may have come loose, and you are lucky, but if the detent holds the star good in between each hump, and the drum is properly retained by the plate, then you heve to dog into your tranny and will likely fond a worn/bent fork, or a problem with one of the gears. the fact that it did not lock into 2 gears at once sounds promising, though....

the camera is at an angle.....so makes things different, but the outters do look hogged more, although more even than the first cyls in initial first glance shaping. there is only one effect that i could see you desiring from asymmetry, but i'm going to ask you what reason you have about it......

bring it on internet tough guy..... in real life, if you ever did show, you would probably piss your pants about the time i say "my turn" you are a newb, and it shows..... to save the long rant, stay tuned to my bhq tour thread, and hit me up when i'm coming through, and we will see if you have half a nutsack. oh, and standing up for a guy who was supposedly banned, long before you signed up, and you no nothing about....that's pretty ruhtardid took me a second to visualize what the pics were, lol....anyways, yes, you are increasing blow-down time, but that is because you are increasing exhaust duration the same. i can see what you are saying at the beginning of the blow-down, but remember on the flip-side, that it terminates with more blockage, due to the crown shape. i have analyzed both subjects for some time in the past. on the flat roof subject, i considered working in a gradually steepening chamfer, that will act like a more rounded roof on the rings, but the over-all shape/effect of the port can hold a flatter opening. only downside would be that the port could become "dangerous" for ring snag as the cylinder/chamfer wears, and i am unsure as to what the wear pattern might hold, so monitoring would definitely be in order. about the scalloping- if you use a higher quality piston, it is already cast/forged/milled to close strength tolerances, so both scalloping the crown, and boost porting a 3rd window are both risky, because the piston was not designed to have that, and material is usually not present where it is not needed, so you are weakening it. older and cheaper pistons may have more material to work with, to keep down on flawed qc and final product failures. now, the vitos power piston specifically, it's not really what i would call a high quality, but that aside, they did design the piston to account for the scallop, so the question is eliminated in that area, and same goes for the boost ported wsm piston. the 5hp comes simply because the scallop is a simulated exhaust porting change to the stock cylinder. you take the same amount out of the roof of a stock cylinder, and you have the same port timing effect, and probably a slight amount of power and tune over the scalloped piston. i'm not trying to kill-joy, just pointing some things out.

.....and that will not only close the reeds quicker, but charge the 5th transfer quicker via the intake. probably better clean-out. looks like some decent hand-work, and flat bridge, btw...... however, what stands out to me, is 1: the exhaust 'hurse-shoe.... it looks like it does more bad to the rings, than any good, and 2: the transfer blending at the bottom is not symetrical from each-other.... neither are any of the ports, now that i look closer...and that's just looking at a pic....... also, the gouges by the port need fixed, but what caused them in the first place? ring snag?

just slap grease on there, and run 150wt premix....

well, i feel the piston scallop, or similar, is sort of a "boost bottle" topic for me. yes, it is a way of getting a duration, or manipulating a port to act other than it is cut, but the ill effects are in the squish. if you have ever seen a vortec piston, and heard one slap, you would understand just how important even squish is. now, i believe you can get your desired effect, or at least a portion of it by doing so, but advise against it. one thought i had on this topic, is to evenly cut the other side. not sure if the squish effect will counter any gains, though. scalloping methods have been all but dropped, since a better method (skilled porting) has become readily available. more knowledgeable porters are the norm now-a-days, rather than back-yard guesstimaters, so it's not often you find someone doing it professionally. also, don't be surprised if abnormal wear develops.......