WillG.

Ttt, still available.

Bump. FYI, I'm willing to ship these items that are left.

Yes I do. There are a few showing again for you in the first post. I also have more pics of the bumper from different angles & behind (not mounted) if you'd like. Also, AC Racing sells a variety of cool grills for this bumper too. :-) Here is a pic with the front fenders on as well.

The pipe package and tire/wheels set were sold today locally. The Front bumper & exhaust tips are all that remain at this time. Thanks for looking.

Just to clarify for anyone wondering, I was referring to all 4 wheels/tires as the set.

I just sold my Banshee so I have no use for these at this time. I'm selling a near new set of chrome FMF Fatty pipes, polished and freshly repacked power core 2 silencers, billet pipe clamps, Pro-Flow air filter adapter with foam filter (filter has the removable metal cage inside), and 280 jets. The head pipes have only one trip to Superstition Mtn on them. There is one small ding on the lower right side expansion chamber. It was there when I bought them new, not really noticeable. Selling all as a package for $300. AC Racing Blackline front bumper/ skid plate for a banshee. Was only on for a few months, it sat most of that time. Has a mark where it rubbed the front of my truck bed. $60. Rear ITP Sand Star Paddles (20x11-10), front Kenda Dune Runner razors (21x7-10). All mounted on polished ITP light weight aluminum wheels (front rims are 10x5 (3+2) with 4/156 lug pattern, rear rims are 10x8 (3+5) with 4/115 lug pattern. They will fit many quads other then Banshees such as yfz450, raptor, warrior, etc.). All tires are in great shape and still have most of the nubs on them. Selling the set for $170. I also have a set of custom billet end caps/tips for the stock pipes, for anyone looking to get a little more sound & flow out of their stock setup but stay U.S.Forrest Service legal. $40. FYI, None of the prices include shipping. I'd like to see what local interest I get first before shipping. If interested, please PM me. Thanks for looking!

Got the dead man/ tether switch installed this evening. I used the tors wires under the tank and it works great! Thank you AKheathen for all your help!!! :-D

Ok i got the Pro Armor brand tether switch today. Its a pretty nice piece. After checking it out, I can confirm that it is a open circuit switch. So it looks like install options are limited. Since i want to keep the function of the key, I may be limited to installing it through the tors wires or coil wire as stated before.

Gotcha, understood. Sounds simple enough. I was looking at the Pro Armor switch again. it looks like that one may come as a normally closed circuit, but can be changed and ran as an open circuit as well. That may be good for the versatility. They dont have an "installation harnesses" for the banshee, but seems simple enough to not need the harness and just get the switch and run two wires.

The information you have provided has been very helpful! I am processing it all, and will decide what may work best at this time. If I understand you correctly by disconnecting the tors (If i choose to do so) it will still run and function properly, but will not kill the engine if a slide stays open?

I see. I did not notice a plug on the Tusk switch but Ill look again. If not, I want a switch that will complete a circuit when the tether is installed? Also, the TORS are still installed. Would that wiring method still be applicable?

I have been thinking of installing a dead man switch on my Shee. But upon looking at a few different ones, I see there may be different ones for atv's with open circuit or close circuit systems (Pro Armor brand). Which does the banshee have? Also I saw one (Tusk brand) that says the key switch has to be disconnected for the switch to work. I would like to keep the key switch as well. If anyone can let me know some good switches to choose from, and how/ where exactly to wire/ tap into would be appreciated. Thanks!

Thanks for the response DEcon. I've actually seen your pics on here before. Very nice! I have installed H.I.D. lights on my truck (as well as made it so the low beams, high beams, fogs, and off road lights are all on at the same time!), so I know how great the light output is. I wont lie, I would love to have H.I.D.'s on the quad. But I really don't know exactly how much I'll be riding at night and not sure if I can justify the cost and installation of all that's required to run them. So that's why I was looking into a less involved and cheaper, yet noticeable improvement over stock. I'm kind of surprised that I cant seem to find more H6M LED bulbs and real comparative info on them. I'm not sure if these would be a wast of money to try, since no one seems to have much input or experience with L.E.D. replacement bulbs. Sorry if I'm beating a dead horse lol.

I'd like to improve the stock head lights. But at this time I don't want to go through everything involved in upgrading the stator and adding a battery. I came across some replacement LED H6M bulbs on this website (about half way down the page). http://autolumination.com/1156_1157.htm Any one try these or have good results from them? If I wanted to run these, would all that would be needed is to convert the shee to DC correct? (which I'm still not very sure how to do)