AKheathen

was that snopczinsci? haven't kept racl lately...

pro-s?- well, you don't have to push so hard on the shifter to cam it over to the next ger, which can be tiresome, so yah, it's good for shifting in that manner. do not confuse the mod with thinking that the trans will go into the next gear easier. it will not change the meshing at all, just gove you better controll. cons: well ther are 2 i can think of, but it only applies to a smaller amount of riders. first, many override trans do not work well with a modded shift star, because keeping the drum in place while in gear is more important, and bacl-load is more likely to move a shift-star-modded setup than a stock star setup. 2nd, if you ride circuit, or really rough, like woods, of=r something where you expect the sifter to get bumped often, and you want it to stay more solid. don't get me wrong, the mod will not make it shift on a whisper, but once you put your foot on th pedal, it is not going to be such an underttaking to get it to grind on over to jump into the next gear like a jack-rabbit, rather, you have more controll..

do the timing plate first, +4 is a generall all-around good setting. if you are a tad bit more experienced in mods, i would suggest playing with it, which could be dangerous in virgin hands. at your elevation, and given you can run 93, i would not hesitate to run 20cc, as long as you don't run it lean and no old ass fuel. if you cannot promise that to yourself, 21 is safer.... btw, "old ass= 1minth+ in contact with air (the gascap vent tube counts as air)

lol, does nobody pull the 22 out of the holster to dual nowadays? anywho, yes, get it ported for the extra stroke, ify0pou are going to stroke. in all honesty, you could spend well over 400 to get into a 4mill and gain some torque across the board, or spend even less, and a site sponsor can get you way more power. on the ohte hand, i can toally relate to bugeting. a proper 4mill upgrade is about 12-1300 to start, so spending $20-$30 , and sometimes less more for the kit that includ3es tha spacer can get you to your goal in satges, because lets face it- if you got the bug, that saving up is going to reach pocket-burning point a coule times before reaching enough for a grweat deal of people. so, no, i do not condone ghetto spacer plate setups as a 4mill, more like a scab-job joke, if you call it a runner, but a work in progress, yah, i feel that. to be completely honest, while you are taking that 4mill leap to mid-point, the chioce of recest chmber setup vs. spacer plate comes down to 2 things- first, where the power is more important. either way, it is going to be peaky on stock cylinders, however, the recesed domes are going to give you a peaky mid-to mid top, and a plate is going to give you a light-switch (more like 12ga shot-gun) top-end burst in power. the 2nd thing- is reliability, since, yes- one gasket on each side of the spacer, you wil have 2x the potential for air leak and cylinder movement. just a small reliability thing, but i always say piece of mind makes a much better ride

go out to your bike, like as soon as you read this, or before replying, and look at your left carb(sitting on the bike) and look at the carb bowl. there shold be a little brass bead on one carb facing the cylinder. that bowl needs to be on the left carb. if you do not see it, check the right. if it's on the right, switch it. having a boost bottle, you should be at a 27.5 pilot in the summer, and 30 in the winter. really, you should ditch it, but i won't go into the legendary boost bootle sucks debate, so you can take from that comment what you want. a stock cross-over tube is best imho. i never took the time to memorize what bills pipes like, because that are just pipes that are better than stock, but not special, no offense. however, most pipes in your scenario will like 260-300, maybe 310. range and the temps/humidity you ride will varry what it likes. another thig- if it melted down, and you have troubel getting it started, then it leads me to belive that the choke tube may be missing, or unhooked. there should be a vacuum line connected to the nipple on the other sice of the choke on the left carb, and it goes directly across to the nipple on the right carb, no bands or deviation, strait across. without this tube, not only will the choke not work, but the right carb will suck air through the hole and lean the right piston to melt-down. another thing- when adjusting the airscrws, you want the motor at operating temperature. small adjustments, like 1/4 turn or less untill you get it running good. once adjusted right, you need the choke to start a cold engine, and it takes between 1-3 kicks.

those tr6's are going to be nice for you, if you are going to keep it stock motor(planned, or not) but if you get the bug, you are going to have to choose between pro-circuits, or rockets, imho. rockets are raeal nice power, but you would not belive how well pro-circuits come on early and give you that nice bit off the bottom that you never knew you could use and stopm the competition. it comes down to your feel, and how you tend to, or are comfortable using the power you have on tap. if you have the 4-stroke tendencies to fall back on a little lower, then you need pc's, if you are constantly instinctive to rev the piss out of it when you need power, you might need rockets, not to say they are just rev pipes, but they will lack in the bottom torque where pc's will back you up no problem. it's a whole other style of riding, imo

honestly, the splines are pretty genaric as far as shifters go. i do believe i have seen some aftermarket longer shifters, but don't quote me on that. ther is alway the option of welding up a longer one

and how...... not sure about what kind of rev-out pc's will allow, but they do mate well within it's profile...

no, not even close...... i've seen it somewhere, just can't place it.....maybe i saw it in a month old thread, maybe somewhere else. who knows

^^^ correct, the choke pickup tube is only in the left carb stock. the choke picks up from that bowl, and feeds both corbs via the the vacuum line that connects the 2 carbs together. now, this tube only effects when you have the choke on, and if the cross-over is missing, then the right carb will just suck air, and the left carb will do the same when the choke is pulled. this setup is the reason that you have to make sure you get the correct bowl on the correct carb. the left bowl has a choke jet in the bowl(you can see which one it is by the external brass bb where it was drilled to feed the jet.) so, if they are switched, the choke does not pull any fuel, and does nothing. if your running issues have nothing to do with having choke on, keep looking.

i see what you are working on now. looks good, wish i had that sort of setup at my house/shop. just want to add a tid-bit. imho, when it's time to pull a hr crank apart, the labrynthe seal is close to done. i found that the stock seal seems to wear better...

so did i..... then i shit in his mouth while passed out. can anyone say hat-trick?

it's the slack that the pusher can move before actually pushing on the clutch to release it. obviously, if you have none, then the pressure plate is putting pressure on the pusher, rather than the clutch plates. between the adjuster and the rod is a ball bearing, which can weld itself if it has constant pressure.

would be perfect for the "builder" section i suggested a year or so ago....

wtf, that is not a twin? i want my $15us back

... and it's 3 years later, man.... just sayin

x3

he did

now, that's just strait up dirty. i am appalled

only ways are a slide hammer, which probably won't work good, and as mentioned, a drift through the collar, and work it around. just pick a good spot in the middle for the zirc, and get yourself a 1/4-28 tap *(iirc) and a grease zirc that fits. you want to pull the plastic shields off the bearings when you do this, so grease actually gets to the balls. can't have bare balls, ya know.

i believe fast has the gear, or bushing for under $30, but can't remember price at all. doesn't sound like it, if it changes with the clutch. i would look at the clutch. could be a hub bushing or something

leak-down test it before tearing it down. probably has an air-leak

you also have to concider a few things- 100 could be good, as long as the numbers are close, and your compression tester should thread down into the cylinder as far as the spark-plug, with a shrade valve at the tip.