AKheathen

every black wire is your "common ground" and needs to meet. this doesn;t mean that you have to run the wire to each, just that you need to have them all be connected to something common, i.e. frame. ground your black coil wire to the frame, hook both the black/red and black from the cdi, to a single ring terminal to the frame. ground the thether wherever works for you. one thing that gets forgot,about, is that the stator black wire is the engine ground, and the stock coil uses it. it will work without it, since the engine should get some kind of frame contact, and it can spark even if it doesn't (as long as both plugs can fire), but it does play a role in the spark performance/stability..... with a stock coil.......as for the yellow- if you are not using the 12v (lighting) you can cut it no problem, just don't leave it exposed, or it can touch ground and put a power load on the flywheel.

yes, the search is total dog shit. using it almost always ends up in getting pissed off and even beating the computer....... i have been suggesting that the site add something like a google add-on, or google site search, where you are actually using the google search engine, but the search is limited to just this site. i know i have seen it before, and i gaurantee is you use the seach, you will see no rference to me suggesting it beacuse the search sucks balls /rant..... all it takes is one guy having a bad day, or responding to a troublesome op to use the search, and then another reads it and monkey-see, monkey-do, you have a growing wave off ass-hole responses. not even confined to this site, and it gets worse at some sites, where the "management" wants to enforce the atitude about it. i don't know what has been going on the past couple months, but this is a learning/teaching site last i checked, which answering redundant questions is a part of the learning process where a guy can spread and discuss his new-found knowledge to the next guy, and usually learn even more. all under the watch of the more experienced and knowledgeable members, that can correct any mistaken info transferred in this manner. so, yes, we need to adress the search fail, but that's up to ty, but as far as the redudndant questions go, i'm with the op...... if you don't want to answer, don't click the thread, just to tell the guy he shouldn't have made a thread....... and those other guys that post shit like "anyone got anything for sale?"..... well, that's just opourtunity for damn good entertainment. .......... hmm, i think i'm sounding a tad less than louquatious tonight.... oh well.

hahaha, wtf is that. where you dig up that pic?

it's called a "man-bag" or "sachel", and you don't want to see what happens when i get grease on it...... worse than a menopause break-down

flipping the rears is more of an adjustment, but really, it's just a good free mod, if you want to look at it like that. it is more stable, and better handling. only downside- the stock axle will be more susceptible to bending if you jump, hit fast whoops, or catch a tire on something in the woods. so, you loose a bit of clearance. however, if you carry around a 14mm, you can flip them anytime you can prop it up, whether it be for fitting on the trailer, or getting through tight trails, etc. it will also help you pull it over in the sand if you put them back to stock. the fronts, however, are not really a good idea. some have done it, which involves welding the valve stem hole closed and drilling one on the other side, or finding a flush needle-fill for it. downside to that- it messes up the goemetry, and it will gain a lot of bump-steer, and harder handling, not to mention putting more leverage on the shocks.....

omfg...... didn't you get banned? i know you should have....for good reason, too. the problem with you and this site.....is you..... it's not about trying to hide info conspiracy theories, etc, but the way you just jump out of an asshole to piss on everyone and get mad that someone came within pissing distance. no, we do not want any fucking info you are willing to share, since it is most likely as distorted and fucked up as what you do/did on this site. if anyone took what you said as fact, and put it to work, and spread it around, the high likelihood that it is somehow incorrect could cost this site's members tens, of thousands of dollars in fuck-up recovery expenses. i will give an honest answer to your question...... no, i have not done it, nor will i ever square off the top of the ports, for reasons already mentioned. can you? of course you can, and it will run, just make sure there is a nice chamfer on it, and don't expect it to make more than a pass or day, whatever, and keep throwing rings at it. don't get butt-hurt when the whole rotating assembly gets transplanted to the trash. you may just find that .002% or more hidden power...... good day sir

nice, how does that whole thing work? like, what if i get a pic in the paper if i decide to run at the ice races?

use the studs by the crank as something to brage the pressure against, then apply, or have someone apply downward pressure on the bottom half, then work it with the mallet/dead-blow

only if your jetting is off and you run shitty gas. the stock setting is to compensate for 6month old gas and bad jetting. if you are tuned right, and use good gas, it shouldn't be a problem.... other than learning to work with that new found torque....... 'se- huh

yah, the red one looks more versitile..... really, you should know which one you enjoy the most. use the money and build the red one up more

poll=fail

helz to the nah...... it's e-chroniks

everything wears...... but lockups seem to last for ever. just look at it. if the fingers aren't worn down to nubs, and the frame isn't all chafed out, it should be fine

don't you mean sell on the forum for $10, or $15-25 with stock intakes?

yes........and you can get a mod to keep it clean.........at page 3, or4, i'm very reluctant to open a thread ...... i'm still working on organizing my photobucket, so pics don't disappear once i post them.

like "start fuel spark carb engine run troubleshoot electrical" ?

i'll just throw a few peices of advise out there- the stock carbs work real well....in dry conditions. they really don't like water, so if you go through a lot, then you should probably jump to 28's or 30's, which will not have the problem. reeds more or less dictate feel of the throttle, more that level of power delivery. look for deals. i remember someone had some pipes on here that he couldn't run with his new build, but needed some drag pipes. can't remember who, but if you are into wheelin-dealin, there is plenty of that kind of dealing all the time. you carbs are worth more than stock, so keep that in mind. i would really look to trade strait across for 28's or 30's. most importantly LISTEN TO YOUR BUILDER.......it is real nice to have a builder, because he has your whole package in mind, and every detail playing off one-another start-to-finish, so just going behind his/her back really just screws you. as for displacement, "402" is just the label of putting the juggs on a stock engine. it very well could be different, like 421, etc

it's the angle and placement of the ball-joints....basic natural sai and offset of the spindles.

lol......i don't think guys want to build an airleak........but they might want to build a LEAK-DOWN TESTER, haha.......anywhoo, it is a good draft, imo. perhaps, the final draft could be worded a little more warm-welcoming, and include links/pics....... i have some good ones saved i can add later, which points out every little thing in the carbs(stock) A for effort

i wouldn't really say it tells the coil when to fire, since the coil is nothing more than 2 windings........current in is converted from lower voltage, higher current, to higher voltage, lower current......the voltage in is set by the voltage built from the stator. higher capacitance in the cdi, means there is less voltage drop and higher sustained current. so, the voltage both in and out of the coil is maintained better, and increased current in is transferred to increased current out. it's simply better power delivery to the coil, not signal. that being said, no, i don't think a dyna will spark better than a nology, in fact, i know you can't beat a nology setup for spark "energy" just throwing something out there, and i don't think most will notice a difference, unless they are faced with the need to gap down already, on an un-faulty stock setup... oh, and using anything other than stock, or stock equivelant can cause a depletion miss, overload the cdi, or overdraw the stator. all voltage drop; =heat

i know there is a ball-joint angle problem with banshee spindles, but idk what it does to camber. caster is one big problem. especially flat track, where it's lowered. turning becomes an absolute bear, because the caster is making the wheels try to push strait

i usually store them on top when not in use, so it doesn't get lost......the retainer should keep it there

lol, the difference is like running slightly different reeds, imo. funny thing- sno-go twins do not come with a cross-over, but haqs nipples cast for it. i've run, and talked to several that have run boost bottles on a sled, and it actually changed the throttle a little. the cross-over is better, though,since it's not a delay through the chamber, so it's a down-grade in throttle response on a banshee. what the effect is- with every stroke, there is a return pulse that sneaks past the reeds and spits through the carbs. believe it or not, yamaha actually pioneered the resonator (boost bottle) to dampen the pulse, on single cylinders. yamaha (obviously) found that a strait cross-over pipe works better, since it sends the pulse to the other cylinder, which is on it's intake durration. a boost bottle just doesn't do that, instead, spits the pulse when the reeds first open, and delays carb draw. no cross-over, just spits back through the carbs a little more, which you can tune for. on e you get past mid-range, mid throttle, none of them matter......well, there's the short sum of my research....