AKheathen

to each their own, i guess. true, after several adjustments and overtightening, or slips, the screws can get worn, but no different than any other phillips screw on the banshee. the hex is a good idea, and you can match the screws up at any hardware store. i would personally rather it mounted with square surfaces for more rigidity, which means less possibility of vibration. after all, it's just magnet wire, and magnet cast in plastic protruding off a tab. it shouldn't ever go bad from vibration, right?

bend? lol.........the pickup mount holes are slotted. throw a sparkplug box flap, or business card between the pickup and flywheel node, and tighten the screws...the card should be able to slide in and out, but not have extra room. if the tabs are bent, it will change as you tighten it. as for rs junk......that is something that they have become. story tells they were actually decent products some years back, which is where they 10yo rs comes into play. nowadays, they use the cheapest of the cheap wire, glue, and attatchments. the wire is also smaller than the rated output on the ignition windings....along with chaotic wraping. imho, there is one good thing from rs and alike......the frame. it does give a nice starting point for wrapping a good stator.

well, the shift star is screwed to the drum, so you check to se if that can be moved in/out. it will be stiff so, you have to use a prybar of sorts. actually, you can bacload a stock trans as much as you want. the forks get bent by forcing it in gear, or missing gears. if you have ever heard it grind going in, that is when it can happen. of coarse, there is also simply wear, i wnich case the gear can move freely on the fork to a limit. the detent/star sets where the gears will be and there is no adjustment for that. however, there is an eccentric screw, which is the slotted stud between the shift arm, that you can adjust to center the shifter. now, the clutch cover is actually what keeps the shift shaft from moving in/out. if it's pretty worn and the shifter moves in/out a good amount with the cover on, you can ditch the gasket and use blue rtv on there to tighten it up

ah, yes, you have to rejet for temperature and humidity changes. if it suddenly started dramatically affecting 3rd on up, then i would look into the crabs needing a cleaning, or float adjustment. normally, it is noticeable in 5-6 first, which is due for 1-2 size change, and effects the lower gears as it gets worse.

oh, matt beat me to the technical term. yes, what you describe is simply a cantilever setup, no matter what the specific design is called. you could make your own and call it a "suck-my-balls link" but it would still be a cantilever. there has been many forms, but all it does is transfer the travel force elsewhere. 2 main points of doing this- first, to change leverage and increase travel from, or decrease load on a shock, and 2nd- to move the mass of the shock away from the wheel, which increases responsiveness of the individual wheel, for more contact time. the same reason to run a lighter wheel/rim assy, and lighter arms. maybe you can draw it out in mspaint, or something. idk for sure, but i think most 250r's already have a cantilever rear, like the ltr250, only they work a bit differently, and the other end of the shock is back on the arm. there is one major downside to having this type of cantilever setup, though. there is more links to wear out and increase suspension chatter, like having a worn out shock, or joint long before any one part is actually worn out. i would like to see what you are referring to with the "dual stage" setup. you can get shocks with dual and triple stage springs "triple-rate" same with the shock valving. it does bring up a kind of idea in my head......

you need to start by pulling the clutch cover and seeing what is going on. it is possible the drum retainer (plate that slides in behind the star) is loose, which will throw the forks out of allignent, but most likely there is a bent, or really worn fork. if the drum is in all the way, and it's hitting the neutral tenant on one of the star peaks, then the gears aren't staying where they should. that's in the fork system. btw, you have to split the cases to find, and fix that problem. there are worse things that can happen with bad forks, like locking it in 2 gears at once, and popping out. both of which can destroy the whole trans cluster.

first thing, verify your light on a good running car or truck

lol, both methods can work great, and can end in horrible failure.........i've done both, and yes, some dents do need over 100psi glowing bright red. i don't even bother using a gauge, i have a blow nozzle with a big rubber stopper on the end of it to plug the flange end, and an expansion quick-plug for the other. the pipe has enough volume that you can give it some quick shots after it's already heated up to push the dent out with the minimum pressure. thinner constructed pipes work best with the low-heat, onless there is a sharp crease, or it's in the header portion, which is generally pretty thick. the ice method works good without damaging the chrome......but, you can bust the pipe wide open, so watch the pipe closely as it's freezing....

i don't know about flat track, but there is a good choice for every condition, use, and build level.....how built is the motor, and how far will it be built? if you are not going to port, i am going to have to say t-6 as well, but if you are, then pro-circuit for a real aggressive stock stroke, or 4mill/7mill, and sst for stock stroke ported. you want to get a pipe that matches efficiency with what you build, and how you are going to, and going to be able to use the power.

predet is a retarded word already...... oh, and stock heads range 23-25cc, usually, and yes, you can get 24, 25 etc domes for your coolhead.....they can custom cut just about anything for it. i just figured you would have your old stock head laying around....

if it's trouble going both in/out 5th&6th, i would try running atf type f in it and see if it starts to get better......could be build-up from lack of use. describe the symptoms better...........could be a number of things, but i do know 5th and 6th is the same fork, and mesh speed is real slow in comparison to the other 4 gears........and, yes, 2nd usually sees the most wear/abuse

welcome to the site, man. yah, we have a few aussies on here. three of them frequent the shoutbox, actually. the only ways to tell right away what year it is, is that in 87-88, or 89, they had upper j-arms, which are the thick single peice ar, and after that, all the way to present, they are all a-arm. in up to 95, they were all round toyota electrical plugs. 95-96, the electrical kinda changed. i can't remember, but i believe the plugs changed to the newer rounded-square toyota plugs, and 97-present are the same plugs, plus it has park-brake wires and some little shit. i forgot what youear, but i think 2001 added a brake light to the tail, so it will have switches in the hand, and foot brake levers. plastics changed every year, but they get swapped often. the singel sure way to tell, is to just decode the vin number, which is located stamped into the frame just below the stator cover round part. i think you can find that link on the technical docs page. go to the home page and you will find a lot of reading. there is a huge market, and endless possibilities for rebuilding that thing, whatever riding style, power level, bone stock restore, etc, and it's dirt cheap to do in comparison. there are some verry important things though. you need to get familiar with your jetting. it's actually relatively easy once you stop telling yourself it's complicated. you need to know about the T.O.R.S., which you can disable by unplugging the little blac box under the gas tank..............those are the big 2 startesrs, and i'm sure you will find the rest as you learn the machine. they are actually really easy to take care of, and super cheap to fix. good luck, and everyone likes pics anyways. why not say hi in the shoutbox..........

haha, like your action-packer 4-stack bottle? truth be told, i actually don't have my stockker welded, and it's still running fine with 20cc domes and +5.5 and dyna....but i'd bet it's separating......which still works fine. but that doesn't say that it won't let go at any time. i have a couple strokers, spare cases, and spare cylinders, etc, so i'm not too worried anyways. so, basically, no, you do not have to, but yes, more compression and timing increases load, and this chances of failure.........i think everyone agrees that it is a judgement call, until you go big.

not true. the bolt can, and does rock in the threads, and it will chew them up and wiggle loose. if anything is extruded more than the head of a screw, you want 2x diameter, or at least 2-1 on the point of force with deflection, which is what we are talking about there. i would find out what the caster is going to be before welding it all

omho, no....with an unported 66mm bore and -2mm deck, you would need 24-25 to push pump. 23, would be a far streatch for 93 and stock timing..... i would bolt the stock head on and see what ou get, then cc it and get domes based on those readings.....

x2........21cc's should kick some high compression, but un-ported with recessed domes, and bore size can bump it quite a bit. what's your info?

the problem with a jaw puller, is that it can actually make the taper grab tighter as you pull....the best thing is pulling it from the canter. either weld a puller on, or a bell, or some sort of pipe fitting that you can make a puller out of. if it's stuck on there. drill the flywheel next to the taper to relax it and try again. it should pop after that, even if you have to smack the end of the puller tward the crank

yah, you will get 100 different answers, and really , there is a lot more out there that push the stock crank beyond what everyone testifies to, but it's all luck of the draw. i say, if you need "race gas' then you need it trued and welded, but really, any stock crank needs welded.........

you measure at the tires, and take into account what the toe adjustment was at the time of measurement? the toe will effect your reading because of the knuckles SAI ("kingpin angle") the sai you cannot change, unless you run the reamer at an angle, instead of strait out, but that runs a high chance of snapping the bit, or at least one or 2 cutting edges. with the new ball-joints, you will be able to adjust the camber, but what you really have to get more precise is the caster. usually, 3-4 degrees is a good all-around dirt, but you can go as much as 7 if you ride more low-speed technical turning and such. it will ba a little harder to turn, but bite better it sounds like you may like it set at 5 degrees.....

didn't you measure your caster/camber before tearing it apart? you need to set your geometry angles before welding it up........ you have to stage it on the bike with the spindles atatched to the gjoints, then tack in place and weld it up off the bike......... i can help you out where to set it if you need. just need to know conditions and style of riding

x2. there might be meat, but most likely it will be by the exhaust, which could read abnormally high, instead of mean temp......still concidering the nic.........it was you, dave, that mentioned coolant beaing able to instantly pit the plating, so that's what i'm going off of. i ride mostly trails to get to my favorite hill-climbs, and my rides can go for 4 days, since i do 3weeks on-3off and don't have to stick to normal week-ends. i bring a bunch of tools and supplies with me so i can fix shit that breaks, from flywheel coming off, to whatever. i'd like to know i can go back to camp and replace an o-ring and keep going, if i ever have to......can you tell me- what is the likelyhood that a blow o-ring would screw up the plating, in all honesty.....1:100, 1:10, 3:4? i'm just worried about having to pack it up for a long peroid for something so simple...... if i can really get the life you claim out of it, that would be great

is this one sentence? you have to look at what chrome is there.......the sitngers, i would paint. the pipes can be cleaned, but once the chrome has been removed, you are not gonna polish it back on. that's not to say that once the rust is gone the chrome won't look good, just that if it's peeled off it's gone

if you want the most power, send your whole motor......that way the builder has exact measurements to build it for you. you will get the best squish, and exact por timings, etc, plus you know it will be assembled right, and pass the leak-down. then, you can just finish putting it together(side covers, clutch, flywheel, etc(you can pull most of that stuff of to save shipping wt.) and tune it with your bolt-ons.

for 300bones, i'd really just check the condition of your current crank and slugs/bore......then get on the phone with a builder or 2 and probably just get your stockers ported for some real power