firebanshee

I run the sand and LOVE the pod filters(K&N clamp on)when the air box is removed i use the mounting tabs and put zip ties through the holes and around the filters to help support them.

When you replace the plugs you should put on new spark plug caps also.Just unscrew the spark plug wire ends off the wires and trim the end of the wire and screw the new ones on.They have an internal resistor inside of them that fail and cause runability issues,this is a common problem.I like to change mine about once a year before they fail.They only cost about 5$ apiece,NGK sells good replacement ones.If you don't replace them with a resistor style cap then you need to make sure and use a resistor style spark plug,there has to be a resistor in the system or you will damage the cdi.I have resistor caps and plugs but i have heard you can use one or the other with no damage.Older banshees ran a b8es plug which is non resistor and newer ones run br8es,which is a resistor plug.

X3 for new plug caps.

Why dont you try to talk byro12 into running a single carb set up, T-6s,throw away his coolhead and shave his stock one,then run your hacked up port job you keep talking about, he would be hauling ass then.

Yes,if they are already ported you need to see if they can be reported for the crank.If you have cylinders that are ported aggressively you cant report them.

I will stick with REDLINE,he to is a site sponser.

T-5s will run circles around T-6s on any motor, hands down i have tried it.T-6s SUCK ASS.

You will definitely want a duneable override,one of the best mods you can do on a bike like that.Without one you won't be happy.

You do not want a drag port if you trail ride.Get a 4mil crank and have your cylinders ported to match your riding style.If your budget doesn't allow for the crank just go for a good port job.

T-6s suck ass compared to T-5s.T-5s work great on ported and non ported motors,if you are looking for a mid to topend pipe.T-6s don't work on ported motors,just buy T-5s and be done with it.

Spark plug caps?Blown resistor inside the caps?

You would see no benifit from switching fuels,your motor doesn't need race fuel.You don't need race fuel till about 160.

X-2, The 10mil costs the same to build as the 7mil,maybe cheaper since there are more of them,go with the 10mil.

Are you sure it didn't fail because of the resistors in the boots? VERY common problem, coils don't fail that often.I replace boots about once a year.Boots cost about $5 a piece.Take off the boots off the wires and check them by themselves.5 k ohms

Everyone is entitled to there opinion,but T-6s.I think they are a waste of time.imo.Pro circuit is a proven pipe in woods riding with alot of potential.

Also it depends on tire size and the number of paddles you run, if you run paddles.I like 22 inch tall tires for ground clearance so i like the 13 tooth for sand,plus i weigh 235.

Worn rings won't cause a knocking sound.If you had a loose rod bearing it could cause low compression and a knocking sound.You could have a worn bore or a collapsed or a broken piston skirt.With a piston problem the noise is usually louder when it is cold.Do you have the top end torn apart?The knock could be worn clutch basket cusions,the big gear on the back of the clutch basket is it really loose?It will move back and forth some.If you throw a top end kit on your motor and the kock is in the side cover when you are done you will still have the knock.

Change your spark plug caps.Unscrew the factory ones of the ends of the plug wires and install new NGKs.They have resistors inside of them that blow and cause you to lose your spark when the power band kicks in.Your bike will idle and run with blown resistors but wont run properly under a load.

Sounds like the pin in the piston that locks your piston rings in place.The pin were the ring gap goes.

X2 remove the TORS.

You need to run a mix.You can not compare jetting changes from av gas to race gas,they are different fuels.You wont notice more power by mixing race gas it will just keep you from destroying your motor.

firebanshee, on 28 May 2010 - 10:28 PM, said: Make sure were your coil mounts you have all the paint cleaned off,that is were your coil grounds it has to make good contact there. i have not taken the paint off where the coil mounts.. its starts right up and sparks great until i ride it. once i take it for a ride its like it the spark is diminished UMMMMMM, like i said clean off the paint, obliviously it is not working properly under a load.The coil HAS to be grounded there to work right.What about were the ground wire goes by the cdi?You have to have good grounds.

Make sure were your coil mounts you have all the paint cleaned off,that is were your coil grounds it has to make good contact there.

FREEDOM OF SPEECH.