firebanshee

Switch the plug wires and see if it moves to the other side if it does it could be a spark plug cap(blown resistor)or a bad coil.

I have modded stock timing plates,if you slot the holes to were the washer on the top bolt of the timing plate is even with the left edge of the plate that is real close to +4deg.You can get plates for not much money and then you know exactly were you are at and you can play with your timing if you want.I like more timing and slightly less compression. Hit up one of the site sponsers for the pods,with your motor the smaller ones should be good.6 inch ones. You can get your head shaved .035 and still be safe for 93 octane.You can have your head shaved and get it rechamberd to 19cc domes and run race fuel and still be all stock looking.Around 160psi at sea level is were you need race fuel. Since you are running the Vito's power pistons then you should not run ported cylinders with them,the pistions simulate a port job. Those R-2 pipes sound like a good pipe but i have never been around them.T-5s are a good pipe for what you want, but CPI,Vito Fat Bastards,Shearer,and Rockets are Great top end pipes.Also i see that Jim at Passion Racing is making a new inframe pipe called Snipers.Alot to choose from. Some 35mm carbs would also be a nice add on, or get the stock ones cut to 28mm if you want to stay with the stock style carb.

I broke a rod on my 4mil.

Yea,there is no need to mod the ignition,except for the timing plate, that is a very good mod to do, one of the first mods you should do,set it at +4 for a gas motor.I think you can retard the dynatech,they are programmable.Who did your port work and what other mods are you doing to your bike? By the way welcome to the HQ

I think you are mistaken, it's been coverd 1000001 times

I run bone stock ignition on my drag bike except for my timing plate.Alot of guys like dyno tech,they have different timing curves that you can change with dip switches,also nology coils are good coils.That is what i would buy if my coils failed.

I just got my 14 over arched swing arm from Tim at Stellar and thing is freaking AWSOME. The craftsmen ship and workman ship is perfect,along with the customer service.

Get dual pipes.

T-6s are not a good mod.imo,they are better than stock, but there are sooooo many other pipes out there that will run circles around them.Plus T-6s are for non ported bikes.T-5s are good pipes,and work great with porting.Just say NO to the 2 into 1.If you want a trail or woods bike then run smaller dual carbs and pro circuits,and bump the timing to +4 and a 21cc dome at sea level for premium fuel and a 19cc for race gas.

That would do it, im glad you found it.

I tried to pm you but it wouldn't let me.Will these fit a standard banshee spindle?If they will i would buy them.

Sweet,is that your new DM?

I like the extreem hauler the best,they don't fold back as easy.

You could check your flywheel,maybe it came loose and now your timing is off?

Polishing the intake will hurt performance,the air and fuel will not atomize properly with a polished intake.On the exhaust side it can help stop carbon build up,If you go through all that trouble just get them ported and get rid of those T-6s.imo.

I just used high temp engine paint,but i run alky so my cylinder does not get near as hot as a gas motor.

I don't use the clutch to shift up and down when i am riding,even on a non overide.

The 110 rods revs quicker but are less reliable,with the longer stoke they side load the piston more and can break skirts.You also do not need to run a 795 series piston, you can run a standard banshee piston.I use to run a short rod crank and it did break skirts.Long rods alot more reliable,need a 795 series piston or a blaster piston.

I wouldn't get the SSTs they don't work good on ported motors,i think you would like the T-5 or the R-2.

If it were me i would run T-5s, but i think the DMCs are close to the T-5s.They are both mid to top pipes,i don't know about the DG pipes.

Do you have the that half circle retaing clip in the case that goes in the groove cut in the outer bearing race?The retainer goes in the bottom case half and sits in the groove on the bearing to keep it were it belongs.The other bearing should have a little pin sticking out of it that goes in a notch.

Oh! like they drive a dragster to the track.I don't think so.

You should always jet richer and work your way to the leaner side.So i would start with the 340s.

Just say NO!!! to the T-6s they are junk.imo