firebanshee

Are you SURE the slides are going down ALL the way.

No,the paddles worked good,you might be able to pull a 15 tooth up front, mine did no problem with a 2nd gear launch.I will probably go to a 14 paddle with the longer swinger and bigger motor.You could try posting it up in the drag forum maybe get more response.

I would drop to a 330 and do another plug chop,looks pretty close though.I usually had best luck with a 27.5 pilot.

I use Redline alky pre mix.

The jetting sounds pretty close,are the cylinders you are running ported? if so are they ported for a non stroker crank set up?You can't take a set of cylinders that were ported for a stock stroke and get them to run right on a stoker motor.You also will not get your motor to run right with spacer plates(as stated in the other post).If your cylinders were never ported then you should get them ported for the set up you are running and get cut domes.

I ran a +12 on my 4mil with 15-42 gearing 12 paddle extreem 72 inch rollout and dune raced it and track raced it,ran 4.17s, worked good,i weigh 235.Going to a 558 cheatah and having Stellar build me a +14 arched swinger.I just race mine at the hill on the dunes, so i don't do any tree shots on this bike.I went so long on the swinger because i can't run my wheelie bar at the dunes.

ATF type F

If you have spacers under your cylinders instead of cut domes or cut head for the stroke, then your port timings are out of wack.I would not use spacers.imo.Also what is your compression? If it is to high then that will kill your over rev.You need to shoot for about 180psi for a race gas motor.

Has the bottom of the cylinder been decked to change port timings?

You would see power gains all the way across the board with dual carbs,singal carb setups suck,imo.Some guys like them, i have ridden them and don't like'm.I have NEVER been outran by one.

It could be your spark plug caps(blown resistors)if you have the factory ones i would put new NGK ones on,are you sure your problem is jetting? If you pull the choke on does it make it better or worse?340s sound like you would be in the ball park.Are your carbs clean?

Good choice imo, what filters do you run?with pods you would need about a 330main and 27.5 pilot.@ sea level.

T-5s,coolhead with 21cc domes for 93 octane fuel,+4 timing,pod filters and jet for set up,330 mains 27.5 pilots,1.5 on the air screw.@ seal level.

I run a standard weight flywheel on my drag bike and my dune bikes,I am a bigger guy and it helps me on my launch and also helps keep the motor from falling out of the pipe as easy.Also i think on my set up it helps me hook up better.I have ran lightend flywheels and on my setups the stock flywheel works better for me.So it depends on your set up,i have seen lightend flywheels work for other people and yes it will let your motor rev quicker. Remember a 300ft drag race is usually won or lost in the first 60 feet.

Bad plug caps? Blown resistor?

I run a 37x13.50x18 open country toyo and air them down to 15psi in front and 12psi in the rear and pull a fully loaded toy hauler with 100gal of water on board in the sand.I also air the trailer down to 18psi.

Are you getting spark?Did you check the reeds?

My buddy just used a big fan that goes in a computer tower and put it in the lower big holes on the front rad shroud.You just need to hook up the headlight wire to the red wire on the fan and ground the black wire on the fan,then when you turn on the headlight switch to the low or the high (depends on if you use the green or yellow wire)the fan will come on.

You need air flow across the radiator no matter what you have in your bike for coolant.I you are running the piss out of your bike with not much air flow it will overheat.I had a buddy wire a computer fan to his low beam headlight wires so when he turned them on the fan came on to help stop it from heating up.

It's always cool to get head

I think it was the old ones.

If you run your bike without a rad. cap does your coolant circulate when you rev your engine?If not you may need a new impeller if it doesn't circulate very well or if not at all you could need a new gear.(the white plastic one under the clutch cover.

I think the pro design cool heads suck.You have to get different studs,which mean you could pull the threads out of your cylinder when chanfing them and they don't have the proper coolant flow.They allow the coolant to just shoot across the top of the domes instead of making it go down into the cylinders and up and across.The NOSS is a good cool head, You would need a 21cc dome to run pump gas at sea level.

I think geckos are the worst paddle tire ever made.imo

You need to rejet, i would put a 300s in it. Always jet up then drop down if needed,you will lean your motor out.