firebanshee

I thought on my timing plate on my bike were that red arrow is would be -10deg and the center long line would be zero and the top line +10deg i was just wondering because i am not sure.

Is that red arrow in the pic really pointing at 0 degrees?

There are 5ohm resistors in stock banshee spark plug boots and when they go open your bike misses under load or in power band i have had experince with this serveral times.I have had to change them on my bike and some of my buddies i replace them with a ngk boot.I do realize that there are resistors in some plugs like the BR8es but not in a B8es.There are alot of people that dont relize that there are resistors in the boots.

Sounds to me like you could possibly need to change your spark plug boots,your resistor could be blown.

It doesn't have to do with how much space you are taking up as to do with how much air fuel mixture you are compressing into the combustion chamber.Since your motor is bored out to 65.5 it will pull in more air fuel mixture into the cylinder than a bore that is 64mm.So you are shoving a larger volume of air fuel mixture into the combustion chamber that is why when i would choose a dome for a motor that is bored out bigger i start choosing bigger domes to keep my compression were i want it which i usually shoot for about 185ish.If you put a 19cc dome on a motor that is bored 100 over it would be like running a 16cc dome on a 64mm motor.

From my personal experiece you need to at least mix your fuel 50/50 with race gas and 93 octane with anything 20cc and smaller as previously stated, since your motor is bored out to 65.5 this also plays a role.When you increase your bore size it increases the amount of air that you pull into your cylinder thus raising your compression, so with your 18cc dome and your bore i think you need race fuel reguardless of your timing.The more compression you keep in your motor the more torque you will have for your woods riding.

I use to run a short rod 4mil stroker crank and it would rev up faster than my long rod but i broke alot of piston skirts, adding more oil to your fuel will not fix this problem of being unreliable.With the longer stroke it changes the working angle of the rod it is about geometery not about friction.If you have an agressive port job with big ports this helps amplify the problem because it lets the piston rock back and for more in the bore were the long rod will put less sideways force on the piston. I have a box of broken pistons to prove this.

I plan on drag racing only, at comp hill in florence on the sand and at dune fest in winchester bay and also at our local track in albany oregon which is 300ft sand drags i am a bigger rider i weigh 250 so i am after alot of torque i am not intrested in peak horse power as much as i am in alot of torque so i can get off the line better.Right now i have my bike at the dyno so we can try some different things but if i dont like the numbers i see i am going to change my set up even though i really like my 4mil cub. I was told that a 4 mill super cub set up right and ported right produces quit a bit more torque than my cub. I dont want to make money my deciding factor on what i want to build within reason i still want to stay married :biggrin: i

Also when you go back together you need to make sure not to get sealer in the bolt holes otherwise when you bolt it together it will hydraulic it in the bottom of the bolt hole and could crack your case or break out the bottom of the hole.

If you remove your rad grill and put foam around your rad and put your shroud back on this will help a whole lot because it forces the air to go through the rad instead of around it the air will take the path of least resistance and just go around the rad and out the side vents of the tank shroud i ride in the sand and found this helped me out alot i use to have the same thing happen to me when i would do lots of hill shots when you dont have alot of air flowing over your rad.

How do you think a 4 mil super cub compares to a 10mil cub ?

I do have admit that i did see a couple of fast zillas one day out at comp hill in florence but they had street bike motors in them,so i guess there is a way to make zillas fast and reliable. :biggrin:

I definatly agree that there are alot of strong running 10 mill cubs out there i have gotten beaten by some of them but i guess the point i was trying to make was if you set up your 4mill properly that it will run right with the 10mills or beat them. So i had it explained to me best when i wanted to up grade to a 10mill cub that i should save my money until i can buy something that will way out perform what i have allready gotten, he told me that he would gladly take my money and help me upgrade to a 10mill cub but i should wait and buy something that would beat the 10mill cub and the 4mill cub which makes sence to me because if i sold all my 4mill cub stuff and went 10 mill cub and then a 4mill cub came along and beat my 10mill cub i wouldnt be very happy so in my case i think i will wait and save my money like they always say you have to pay to play hahahah.

I have been told by a couple of reputable motor builders that if i wanted to go 10 mill that i should use a dm or twister cylinder or one that uses a 250r style reed cages. I currently run a 4 mill cub on alky and have been making plans to go 10 mill and wanted to use cub cylinders and have been told that i should consider a different cylinder to get the most power.

I think that if you are going to a 10 mill you should go away from the cub cylinder and go to a cylinder that uses bigger reeds because the reeds on a cub cylinder are about max out with a 4 mill stroke.

Thanks, i have heard they make more torque than some of the other pipes out there which is what i am after i just havent seen alot of people running them were i ride which is ok by me i really like the look of the pipe.

I was wondering if any one out there has had much experience with wicked big bore out of frame pipes or have had them dynoed and how do these compare to shearer or cpi. I am building a 4 mill super cub and got a good deal on these pipes and was wondering if these are worth trying or should i stick with my original plan on going with shearer with carbon fiber silencer?