bansheesandrider

I prefer factory gaskets and especially factory seals. I also prefer the factory style head gasket over a thick copper type gasket.

That looks like the connector on my 97 harness. Minkia38 strikes again.

You should be able to rotate the filter on the 2 into 1 adapter so it clears your pipes.

I ntried to run one on my bike but had problems with it. First, I WAS running resistor plugs and it did not make a difference. Whenever the bike was cold if you revved itup at all the Vapor would reset. I even took the bike up to TraiTech twice- the first time they gave me all new sensors and even a new Vapor unit, along with trying EVERY trick they knew to get it to work. When I got home and the bike was cold again it, still did it. The next time I took it to them, they ended up GIVING me a Vector unit and let me keep the Vapor.. I had decided that it was to hard to read the tach when I was riding the dunes and as long as I had the hourmeter, temp and speedo, that was all I really wanted and needed.

I prefer the Cascade CSFX silencers- they look better and there is very little power loss. My bike is less than 90 db with them. They are available from Cascade Innovations.

I use the 2 into 1 filter on all my Banshees, with a K&N element and an Outerwear on it. I did not notice a difference in power when I switched to it from pods, but when I made the switch I had a pretty mild build also. I switched because with 3 Banshees and a Blaster, it was too many filters to clean. I have never had a problem with cracked boot on the 4 different Banshees I have had a 2 into 1 filter on over the 21 years I have had Banshees.

4mm sounds small, it should be more like 8-10mm. It should just barely fit inside the shaft, if it is too small it is not going to center properly and give you more problems. Remember, it is always best to use the right parts the first time so it does not cost you more to fix it the second time.

It is not the same company. The FullBore that does plastic is in Portland, OR. The link is to a company on the East Coast.

NO, you want the tester on Ohms, which is both AC and DC. On ALL years Banshees you want to test the secondary by going wire to wire, not wire to ground as the manuals say. That is because a Banshee fire both cylinders at the same time, twice every revolution. Banshees and cars that are distributorless ignition(with coil packs) send the spark out one wire to the plug, it jumps the gap to the ground electrode and travels through the metal of the head to thepaired plugs ground electrode where it jumps the gap to the center electrode and travel back to coil on the other wire. That is why you have to check it wire to wire. The way the manual says is the way to check a single cylinder coil OR a coil that is used with a distributor.

Don't sweat the green/yellow wire. That just means the box is meant for a 97 up bike with the park brake rev limiter. Most everybody cuts that wire off anyway. As stated, Ricky Stator and RM Stator CDIs and stators are junk and are known to be bad out of the box brand new.

After the cylinders are installed on the cases, lay a straight edge across both of them at the same time and make sure the deck heights are equal. If your cylinders are 2 different heights the head will never seal. Also, a stoch head that has been cut too much will never hold a gasket, the metal is to thin to be solid enough to haold the gasket.

The switch you are talking about is actually for the park brake, it is a rev limiter to keep you from riding the bike with the park brake on. It should have a green/yellow wire coming out of it, although some years are different I am told. If you go to the back of the bike where the CDI box plugs into the wire harness, you can cut the green/yellow wire where it comes out if the plug ON THE BIKE HARNESS SIDE, not on the CDI box side of the plug. This will enable the plug to insulate the wire so it does not short to ground and enable the rev limiter in the CDI box. Also, this is a TOTALLY SEPERATE system from the TORS system which has it's own control box.

If you use a solvent tank and a brush, make sure it is a clean solvent tank. You don't want to be washing dirt and crud into your bearings with the solvent. After it is clean, you will need to lube the bearings to keep them from rusting. If you are installing the crank right away, just use some of your premix oil and make sure it gets into the balls and races.

If the clips are not in there all kinds of carnage will happen. The crank and tranny shafts will NOT be held in the proper location and will rub on other parts and the cases and cause damage. Also, it may take out the cranks seals, causing an air leak and then a meltdown. Good luck.

2 stroke heads are not ported, on a 2 stroke you port the cylinders. 2 stroke heads are modified by milling the deck surface and/or modifying the combustion chamber for a better burn of the air/fuel mixture. If both are done to the head it is called "cut and chambered".You pipe choice will be determined by your riding style and where you ride. As for your coolant leak, it could be a bad O ring or the sealing washers under the nut depending on the brand of cool head.

You put that street bike motor in a Banshee and you will have a very fast quad that HANDLES VERY POORLY, and won't be good for anything but going very fast in a smooth straight line. You won't be able to jump it, go fast through whoops or even corner very good.

That is why they wear out the bushings sooner.

Yes, J arms do wear out the bushings quicker. I had to go to the Toomey brass bushings in my 89(all that was made at the time) back in about 91, my wfe's 97 still has the stockers in it.Everybody is confused about the brake/spindle thing. As I said before, 1990 J arm bikes have the later style brakes/spindles, so it is not a change because of the arm type. Oh yeah, my wife bent an A arm just as easily as I bent a J arm.

He said he put a 2 into 1 setup on, so that rules out stock jetting along with the choke tube problem.However since he burned a hole in a piston and it is hard starting, I would agree he has a jetting problem. But you can't suggest stock carb jetting to him. Somebody familiar with a 2 into 1 setup needs to chime in here AFTER he tells us what carb he is running and ALL other mods he has.

Your pressure plate is out of time with the inner hub. If you look on the pressure plate, there are some arrows on it. They need to line up with the arrow on the inner hub. I think ou just need to take the pressure plate back off, rotate it one bolt on the hub and reinstall it. You should then be good.

Really? How about the windows are there to let the intake charge into the CRANKCASE, as all 2 strokes do. The top of the piston only opens and closes the exhaust, transfer, and if it has them, some boost ports. Unless you had a slipper style piston, the bottom if the piston would never get high enough to open the intake ports. As far as balance is concerned, most Banshees are out of balance anyway, because the forged Wisecos do not weigh the same as stock cast pistons. As long as both pistons weigh the same it is not going to really matter. If you go to The Two Stroke Shop's website there is a post about how out of balance a stock Banshee is. I used to run hand lightened Wiseco pistons with the windows matched to my intake ports. Then my builder closed up shop, so I started running the standard ProLite pistons and I did not notice any real difference in my mild build.

Wiseco is the only brand of piston I would use. If you have wiseco pistons use wiseco rings, if you have stock pistons, use stock rings. If your pistons are not stock or Wiseco, then you should bore it and put wisecos in it. As long as the bike is jetted properly, I have never had a problem with Wiseco pistons( if the bike is nott properly jetted, it is not the pistons fault that it melted from being lean, or the rings stuck from being carboned up from too rich). Dn't be a cheapskate when it comes to your Banshee, if you buy cheap, inferior parts for your bike, you will only have to fix it twice instead of once.

There are only 4 ignitions worth using on a Banshee-PVL for the drag race boys, Dyna or MSD if it meets your criteria, or the OEM CDI box. The oem is the most reliable, all other aftermarket electrical components are usually unreliable.The Nology and Dyna coils are OK. Timing keys are not the best solution on Banshees, but are a cheap way to go. I personally would go with a stock CDI box and an adjustable timing plate. JMHO< good luck.

Did you check the stator and coil with an ohmmeter? RM Stators have been known to be bad right out of the box brand new.There is a ground wire in the harness that connects to everything but the voltage regulator. There is a ground wire where the voltage regulator bolts on,there is a ground terminal on the stator itself, the off/run switch gounds to the handlebars. Guys on here say you need to have bare metal where the coil bolts to the frame, BUT I rode mine for 5 years with the coil mounted to a rubber insulated wire harness loom clip wrapped around the frame when the mount broke off. It ran just fine that way.

I believe if you look very close, there is a + and - by the terminals. The kicker is most Banshees came from the factory with the orange wire on the - terminal and some peolple on here say that they should be changed to orange on the +, and claim it will run better. I know it does make a difference on a car coil used with a distributor.