bansheesandrider

You probably need bigger pilot jets. And were you adjusting the idle speed with the screws on the carb tops? Also, put the clip back in the middle groove. My wife's bike has Fattys, a 2 into 1 air filter and is stock otherwise, she is running 300 mains, 30 pilots,air screws at 1.5, clip in the middle and it runs great.

As far as I know the Haynes manual also covers the Warrior, and that sucks unless you also own a Warrior because you will have to wade through all the Warrior info also to find the Banshee info. I have never used a Clymers but everybody on here swears by them, but I think that is because it is cheaper than the factory manual. I personally use a factory manual, becuase that was all that I could find when I bought my first Banshee 21 years ago. It is a great manual, but they do cost a fair chunk of change.

I run a Magura 312 throttle with a Motion Pro cable and it is sweet. But they no longer make the 312, they do make a 314 that is supposed to be the same thing, just made out of plastic instead of metal.

I prefer to use genuine Yamaha gaskets and seal for my Banshee and Blaster repairs. Never had a problem with them and they always fit.

The plugs may be the same between a 96 and a 98 CDI box, but the 98 box has a green/yellow wire for the park brake rev limiter that the 96 box does not. However, you won't be messing with the CDI plug on a motor swap. You will be messing with the STATOR plug, of which there are only 2: 87-94 & 95-06(in the USA).

Just put Maier tank and radiator covers on the wife's bike because she wanted pink and I didn't want paint on her bike. As was mentioned the gap between the tank covers and the factory fenders is a little big. The radiator cover flares out away from the tank cover on the right side, but I think I can corrrect this with a heat gun. I think the UFO stuff is pretty decent if you can live with white, black, or blue, as that is all it comes in.

The CDI is different between 96 and 98, but the stator plug which is the one you need to worry about is the same between them. It should be a straight swap to put a 96 motor in a 98 frame.

If you want a bike that looks like a Raptor, go buy a Raptor. Banshees SHOULD look like Banshees. But, I do appreciate the effort on the graphics.

DON"T put a +4 key in it, it will just lead to problems down the road:sheared keys, loose flywheels, and damaged keyways. Spend $50 and get a Chariot timing plate off of Ebay, make sure it is a billet Chariot piece and not a cheap cast one from RM Stator or Ricky Stator. If you did JUST the head you should be able to still run on 93 octane.

You need to be more specific, there are multiple styles of plugs. 87-94 have 4 wires with a round plug, 95-96 have 4 wires with the newer style plug, 97 on have 5 wires with the new style plug. You just need to have matching plug halves and matching terminals in them, and then match the wire color on the harness side to the wire color on the CDI side. You will have a green/yellow wire left over which is the park brake rev limiter and you don't need that. Just make sure it is taped up so it doesn't short out.

What about the park brake rev limiter? What year is the wire harness and CDI box?

When you did the TORS elimination, did you unplug the actual TORS control box under the left side of the fuel tank next to the coil? If it is a 97 model or newer, you should also eliminate the park brake rev limiter. Go to the back of the bike and locate the plug for the CDI box,find the green/yellow wire and cut it out of the BIKE HARNESS. DO NOT cut it on the CDI box side of the plug. This will use the connector plug to insulate the wire from the CDI box. If you want you can open up the harness wrap and remove the unused wires.

Is it a round housing carrier? Could be an oversize drag axle, like the one from JJ&A. You definetely need to get us some pictures.

NO, you have to have your filters in place as they will affect jetting. And going to a different style filter will affect the jetting also. I would get a set of pods installed,throw in a set of 30 pilots and start with amain in the 320-340 range.Do a proper plug chop and see where your at.

I am running Haulers and I can powerslide with ANY V paddle. I will admit if you run a straight paddle you should also run a ribbed front. When I switched from the single ribbed Razorbacks to the double ribbed Sand Stars it made a HUGE difference in the bike going where it was supposed to in the tree holes.

All brands of oversize tanks have to cut the plastic, that is how they get enough room for the bigger tank. In my opinion, the Clarke tank is the best looking tank.

The roll around jack is nice for tire changes and small jobs that you need the wheels off the ground for. But, for engine work and other major jobs, I prefer an X stand. It puts the bike at a higher level and is much more friendly on your back. I have and use both. You definetely need a good torque wrench, it will prevent many stripped or broken bolts and also your bike won't fall apart while you are riding if you use some Loctite and a torque wrench on your hardware. By good I mean at least a Craftsman, or Snap On, Mac Matco, SK, Proto, etc. A good torque wrench can be sent out and tested and recalibrated. If you need an Impact, I would go with a battery powered one because you will be able to take it with you on riding trips. You should also have a flywheel puller, and a clutch hub holder tool and a good multimeter. Motion Pro makes a clutch holder that also will hold the flywheel and sprockets, it looks like a set of modifed Vise Grips. Add a set of metric sockets and wrenches, a few screwdrivers, prybars, hammers, etc. and you will be set.

A Banshee has a close ratio gearbox and a RZ has a wide ratio gearbox. This means that the RPM drop when you shift is far greater on a RZ than it is on a Banshee. This was fine on a street bike equipped with a powervalve setup, but it will suck on a non- powervalved off road machine. If you are looking for more speed you would be better off changing your sprockets.

Use the j arms, don't put the foot guards on and use everything else from your 98 and you will have a running bike.

It will depend on several things-where you want to register it, where the frame came from,etc. I live in Oregon. I bought a frame on Ebay from Maine. It came with no title as Maine does not title ATVs. I had a cop buddy run the number for me before I bought it. When I decided I should get a title before I continued with my build, I went to DMV and got the runaround. I ended up having to take a "substantially complete"bike in for an inspection, so I put all the parts I had for my build on the frame and put the wheels and plastic from my other bike on it and took it in. After filling out all the forms, them inspecting it, paying multiple fees and jumping through ALL their hoops, they sent it to the main office for approval and in about a month, I got a title in the mail. So, check with your DMV and have the number ran before you buy it.Good luck!

I am not positve about this, but I believe that Electrosport is the actual manufacturer of the Moose stators.

They are routed to the front up high to keep water and shit out of your crankcase and tranny. That is the driest and cleanest place on the bike. If you route them with the carb overflow, do you want them sucking in shit?

From what my buddy was saying, it sounded like they were jacking bike at gunpoint and riding off, leaving you stranded.

Has anybody heard about the SoCal gangs invading Glamis and jacking people for their bikes,RVs and other toys, My cop budddy was telling me about this tonight, he said it is getting to be a real problem down there. Anybody have any feedback or stories to tell?

The leak could be comming from the shift fork rail plugs or the neutral switch( the plastic plate behind the sprocket). If the play in the bearing is to much you will need to split the cases.