bansheesandrider

I would definetely NOT leave out the plates behind the clutch basket. One of them is designed with a cavity in it to collect and direct oil onto one of the tranny bearingsand the gears under the clutch cover. It needs to be in there to get maximum life from your bearings and gears.

I have those hangers from Cascade and I think they suck. They are just stock hangers that Cascade drills and puts screws through before they send them to the chromer. After I washed my bike the first time they were on there, rust began pouring out around the screws. Cascade basically said tough titty brcause I bought them when Kevin and Becky owned it and Chris was not going to warranty them.

If your tire is a 20X11-9, that means the TIRE is 20 inches in diameter, it is 11 inches wide across the sidewalls when mounted on the recomended width rim and it fits on a 9 inch diameter wheel. None of this will tell you what size wheel you have except for the wheel diameter. You could put the listed size tire on a 9X8,9X9,or a 9X10 wheel. Whells are listed by diameter first and width last. So lokk at your tire sidewall to find the diameter and then take a tape measure and measurehow wide the WHEEL, not the tire, is at the point where the tire connects to the wheel, that is called the bead. Any decent tire or ATV shop should be able to figure this out.

Umm, nobody has brought this up yet, but if you are going to go with a 4 mil, you need to have your cylinders ported for a 4 mil. The port timing is different for a 4 mil and you may or may not be able to correct it for a 4 mil if it has already been ported for a stock stroke motor. If you do go 4 mil, I would recomend going long rod, it puts less stress on everything with the longer rod and you just have to run a 795 series piston instead of a 513 series. You will still need the stroker domes or a plate to compensate for the stroke, the 795 series piston just compensates for the long rod.

Sometimes a forced change in jobs and income, and becoming a grandparent cut into the riding time. But, i still buy the best equipment so when i do go riding I can make the most of the time!

I have a J arm bike and I was going to swap to an A arm frame. But, I ended up with so many parts that now I am going to do a ground up build with the A arm frame and just keep my J arm bike.

Obviously you are not a true Banshee rider because you do not have the "money is no object when it come to my bike" attitude that most of us on here has.Once you ride sand with a set of paddles you will never ride it with knobbys again, it makes that much difference. And if you live close to a good sand riding area, you might even quit riding on dirt altogether. My Banshee has not been on anything but sand for the last 18 years. Unfotunately, the last few years my trips to the sand are getting fewer and farther in between,life is getting in the way of riding. But that does not keep me from buying the best of what I need to go riding.

If you are using factory Yamaha gaskets put them on dry, if you are using another brand then I don't know as I only use Yamaha gaskets on my quads. As for loctite, do not use it on the head nuts because you will need to retorque the head after it has gone through a heat cycle, retorque it a couple of times. I usually retorque mine until it quites moving when I do it. Everywhere else on the bike I use red or blue Loctite,depending on the location and size of the fastener. I use loctite everywhere because I ride in the sand and if there is Loctie in the threads it prevents corrosion from getting in and actually makes it easier to take aprt than if there was no Loctite in there. I don't know about the Clymer's manual, but if you had a genuine Yamaha service manual it will show you where you need to use Loctite along with what grease to use and where to route your cables, wire harness, and hoses, along with a torque spec for just about every nut ,bolt and screw on the bike.

CDI boxes breakdown as follows: 87-94,95-96,97-06. 95-96 boxes are the same as the early boxes except the connectors are different, if you change the connectors you could use one of them. The 97 on boxes are different because that is when the park brake rev limiter was added, you could use one of them if you splice on the early connectors and don't hookup the green/yellow wire for the rev limiter.

NO, the voltage regulator will NOT affect spark. It only controls the voltage in the lighting circuit and when it goes bad the voltage goes way high and burns out your light bulbs. You need to get a good service manual and it will tell you how to check out the stator and coil. If those check out then you need to swap out the CDI box and seee if that makes it spark. Also, look over your wire harness for damaged or shorted wires. I believe I read that this is a 1990, they do not have park brake rev limiters, that was added to the 1997 and later models.

Problem with that chart is it does not tell you the length or hardness.

In the rear on all years EXCEPT 89-90. In 89-90 the rears are 4x156 as is the front on ALL years. It is measured the same as all other vehicles, the number of studs and the diameter of the bolt circle. As there are an even number of studs you measure from the center of a stud to the center of the stud directly across from it.

I recently tried to get new motor mount bolts at the local hardware store(which has a VERY large selection) and they did not have the corrcet size, they did not go that long in 10mm. Also, on Ebay there are some guys selling boxes of bolts from Banshee part outs that are fairly cheap.

Toomey makes a 2 into 1 filter that is 1 big filter. Or get the dimensions of your carbs and the available space in the frame and go on K&N's website and search for something that will work.

Grounding the orange wire is a good way to damage the CDI box. You are much better off grounding the black/white wire.

If you only have 10 minutes of run time on a fresh topend then your rings have not fully seated yet. Since your plugs say one side is rich and the other is close, I would carefully break it in, making sure to retorque the head. Then I would make sure it is correctly jetted and ride it. This is assuming you have done a leakdown test and it passed.

Make sure you retorque the head a couple of times after it is warmed up.

You should be OK as long as you don't weigh 250+ pounds and he only weighs 95 pounds.

This is the problem!When you set the parking brake, the switch is closed and the 2 wires are connected activating the park brake rev limiter. Cut the wires apart and it should work. I would recomend removing the green and yellow wire from the bike wire harness completely, it will prevent problems like this from happening in the future.

The Cascade mounts are the only style I know of, somebody else makes a knock off copy of them. When I had Maier plastic(the old style) on my bike I went through 2 sets of the Cascade braces, both sets broke off right outside the mounting bolt. I gave up on them and went back to stock plastic and have had no problems since. One thing I used to do while the bike was not being ridden was put a block of wood on the seat and run a bungee cord over it to each fender so it was pulling up on the fenders. This was only with the Maier fenders.

DO NOT ADD new links to an old chain, it will cause the chain to have tight spots and loose spots. This will overstress the chain and lead to a broken chain and broken cases.

TO properly check the fluid level the dipstick is supposed to sit ON TOP of the threads per the genuine Yamaha shop manual and also the owners manual that came with the brand new 89 and 96 models I bought. Also, it actually takes about 1.8 quarts to fill the transmision. The oil does not have to be warm or hot but it does help it drain out faster and better. I usually warm up the tranny and pull the plug out of the transmission and let it sit overnight to drain out completely.

The lack of exhaust O rings will not make it smoke. My vote is a crank seal improperly installed or damaged during assembly. A leakdown test should show this.

Absolutely, I did not think about that. Are the 2 yellow wires the same type of wire or does it look like one of the yellows was added by someone?

It is not the voltage regulator. The regulator only controls the lighting circuit voltage, it has nothing to do with the ignition side of it. Double check ALL of your wiring.