bansheesandrider

Do brand new replacement cases(and frames for that matter) have numbers stamped in them when you buy them through parts? If not, just tell the cops that is what you have. Also, on the early year bikes, the engine number does match the frame number, but on later years they don't. M89 has matching numbers, but the 96 we bought new for my wife did not match.

This would be way more work than it is worth. Once you drilled the holes in the tank, you would have to come up with the threaded inserts and figure out how to get them fastened into the tank so they don't turn or leak. Plus, you would probably have problemms with the screens plugging up all the time because there is always crap in the tank. Yhen you would have to build a plate to go on the original location.

You will probably have to contact whoever made your A arms as everbody's aftermarket arms are a little different from the next guy's. The ones you see online/ in catalogs are made to fit stock arms which are all to Yamaha spec, everybody's extended or long travel arms are made to the arm builder's spec, not Yamaha's.

Your post above mine said you were going to buy one!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

WTF???????????????

If you buy 795 series pistons and a coolhead with stroker domes, YOU DON'T NEED A SPACER PLATE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The wires going to your clutch lever/ park brake are for the park brake rev limiter. It is totally seperate from the TORS system and it is supposed to keep the bike from revving up when the park brake is set. It works by connecting a wire from the CDI box (at the rear of the bike) to ground when the brake is set. But sometimes the plunger sticks or miosture will short it to ground when the brake is not set. The best way to deal with it is find the CDI box connector plug at the rear of the bike and locate the green/yellow wire in the bike side of the plug. Cut this wire ON THE BIKE SIDE OF THE CONNECTOR as close to the plug as you can. This will use the connector body to insulate the wire from shorting to ground and activating the rev limiter. If you wanred to, you could even remove the terminal and wire remnant from the connector. If you really want to clean up the wiring on your bike, you can remove the harness and unwrap it, remove the green/yellow wire and all the wiring for the TORS system. You have to keep the main black wire in the harness but you can get rid of the black/yellow wires and I beleive there is a black wire that goes from the main wire to the TORS box. If you are going to do this I would get a wiring diagram and read the electrical tech info on here. Good luck.

You don't have to take it out, you just unplug it from the bike harness and check the resistance at the plug.

NONE of this applys, he has PWKs not the stock Mikunis.

DON'T use grease, it is too thick. I prefer a product called Tri Flow. It is a teflon based lube that sand and dirt won't stick to.

Mine definetely failed because it was not welded. It had spread open and took out the thrust washers and then the rod big end bearing failed. If it had been welded it never would have spread and took out the bearing.

You need a bore job and new pistons and rings. With 68 psi, it is not putting enough squeeze on the air/fuel mixture to make it fire.

It's a free country, do what you want. But, I have seen enough people leave the dunes on a stretcher or in a body bag that were innocent bystanders or just in the wrong place at the wrong time that I am going to wear the proper safety gear.

He's probably such a good rider that he doesn't need a helmet either!

My first crank let go with just pipes and filters done to the bike. It cost me over 700 bucks to fix all the damage and that was in 1991. I had to repair the crank and have it trued and welded, have the head domes remachined, bore the cylinders and new pistons and tore it apart and put it together myself. If you want to chance it go ahead, but if it lets go it will trash your new pistons and damage some of your other parts. If you send it to a good builder for trueing(first) and welding(second), he will be able to tell what it needs, but he might say it looks OK but you should rebuild it for peace of mind. It all depends on how old it is.

I know the weld needs to be cut, but if you read this thread it sounds like you want him to just beat on it till it is true. Nothing was said about cutting the weld. I have been playing with Banshees for over 20 years and a professional mechanic for 25 years, it's not my first rodeo.

How is it going to change if he already has it welded?

If you go with a stock stroke(54mm), long rod(115 mm) crank you can use the 795 series piston and NO other mods are required. If you go to a 4mil stroker(58mm) long rod you will need to use the 795 series piston AND have your dome cut to clear OR use a spacer plate. Cut domes are preferable over the spacer plate. Your port job may or may not be correctable for the stroker. The stock stroke long rod won't really add any power, it is more for reliability and less internal stress on the motor.

What kind of bulbs are they? If they are HID you will have to do a DC conversion. IF they are LEDs I am not sure, some LEDs will work on AC and some need DC. If they are standard incandesant or halogen bulbs they will work with no modification.

It should have been trued before it was welded, Now it is going to have to be cut apart, then trued and rewelded.You definetely need to send it to someone that does this work, NOT some hack working out of his basement or garage. AND if it is not true, you don't want to riun it as it will tear up other stuff costing you ALOT more money and time.

Go to the back of the bike and find the plug for the CDI box. On the bike side of the plug, cut the green/yellow wire. This will eliminate the park brake rev limiter and insulate the wire to prevent further problems.

Were you torqueing it to INCH pounds or foot pounds, it is supposed to be inch pounds? You were using a torque wrench at the proper spec weren't you?

Bad shift shaft or bent shift fork or your shift shaft eccentric moved and is out of adjustment. Pull your clutch cover and check things out. Make sure that everything is adjusted per the service manual that you should have.

The harnesses break down as follows: 87-94, 95-96, 97-01, 02-06(USA). I believe the 97-01 and 02-06 harnesses use the same style connectors, but the tailight connnector is different as they added the brake light in 02. The 02 up harness will have extra wires for the brake light and the swithes for it, but the CDI,stator and switches should all plug into it. If you are running the small tail light you can change the connector to match and you should be good.

What year bike is this? If it is a 97 or newer, it might be the park brake rev limiter. Make sure your park brake is released, if it still does it, try unplugging the green/yellow wire coming from your clutch lever and tape it up. If that fixes it, go to the rear of the bike and find the CDIbox connector. On the bike side of the connector,NOT THE BOX SIDE, cut the green/yellow wire as close to the connector as you can, this will eliminate the park brake rev limiter. You should also unplug the TORS control box under the left side of the fuel tank, next to the coil. That will DISABLE the TORS system. If you get a TORS removal kit you still need to do this, but it will get rid of those big carb tops and make your bike easier to work on.