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bansheesandrider

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Everything posted by bansheesandrider

  1. Skip the boost bottle. You are going to have to rejet after adding reeds, after adding filters, after adding pipes. So I would buy the reeds and K&N and sit on them until you get the pipes and then put it all on at once and jet it one time.
  2. Most individual Wiseco 2 stroke pistons come with pins but not wrist pin bearings, unless you buy a complete Wiseco top end kit. Contact FAST and see what you were suppose to get.
  3. I don't know what those pipes normally jet at but I would start with around a 320 main. With +4 timing and a milled head I would probably mix 108-110 octane 50/50 with 91 pump gas. When you get it together, Check your compression. Mine is 175psi at sea level, I run 2gals. 108 octane mixed with 3 gals. 93 octane. My timing is at +4, dune port,Boyesen reeds on ported stock cages, cut and chambered head, pipes, etc.
  4. There is moisture in the air trapped inside when the cover is put on. Make sure the grommet/boot on the wire harness is in good shape and seal it to the case with RTV. I have never had to use any extra sealant with the factory gasket and cover, however, with an aftermerket cover and/or gasket it is a different story. LOL
  5. I was talking about the rear wheel hub bolt pattern to hold the wheel on, however alot of them did get hubs with the 4x115 pattern swapped on so they would be the same as the other years. If the idler gear wobbles at all it needs a new bushing or a new gear, if it wobbles, it will eventually flip the snap ring and washer off the shaft and run them thruogh the other gears. You need to see how much clearance the hooks on the shift shaft have on the pin. The screw/pin that the big spring for the shift shaft sits on is an eccentric to adjust the shift shaft. I don't have the specs for the crank. All of this stuff is covered in the service manual, along with all the torque specs. You really should have a service manual if you're going to work on it yourself. I prefer the factory Yamaha manual myself, but alot of people on here like the Clymer's. the Yamaha manual does a really good job of showing and explaining things, I have never looked at a Clymer's so I don't know. Unfortunately, the Yamaha book is more money. Also, make sure you have a good torque wrench, follow the torque specs, and pay attention if the spec is in inch/pounds or foot/pounds. Good Luc.k
  6. 89 and 90 Banshees had a rear bolt pattern of 4x156, same as the front. All other years (87,88,91 on) were 4x115, the same as Warrior,Raptor,YFZ450,etc. JP Racing was a company based here in Portland, OR in the early 90's. From what I was told(truth?) they went bankrupt once and were about to go under a second time when they got bought by Lonestar Racing. They made frames, swingarms, J arms, A arms, etc. I don't know if they made any parts for engines. Never the less, JP is out of business so I would say you will have to see if Hinson or somebody else's cushions will fit. While your in it, pay close attention to the kick idler gear bushing, snap ring, and washer. Also, make sure the shift shaft is in good shape and properly adjusted, the side play on the connecting rods is correct and the crank is properly trued and welded. Good luck on getting it running.
  7. STAY THE FUCK OUT OF FARMER'S FIELDS. Your out there tearing up his livelihood, and giving every ATV rider a bad name. Riding where your not authorized just makes it harder for us to keep the riding areas that we do have. Furthermore, I live on a farm and I get tired of having to build fences to keep assholes like you out, and having to bounce through the tracks people make. It's hard enough to make any money farming without dumbasses tearing out our crops.
  8. I had a dealership mechanic tell me the only way to do it was to grind off the rib, coat the seal with Yamabond, push it in and let it set up. He was a pretty good wrench and he did NOT recomend doing this but he had done it so someone could finish their weekend at the dunes, it was a temporary fix. You might as well bite the bullet, split the cases and replce ALL the seals. It definetly pays off in the long run to do it right.
  9. Yes i realize this is an old thread, but thought I'd add my .02. I tried to put a Vapor on my Banshee back in January and had this same problem. I was running resistor plugs, I tried the 9V trick, I unhooked the power wire, etc. However, mine would only do it when the bike was cold- before it would display the temperature. I took the bike to Trail Tech and they said they had never had this problem, but they did replace the temp sensor, no charge, and sent me on my way. I swapped the sensor at home, but still had the problem. So, back to Trail Tech the bike went. They tried modifying the battery holder, the tried another Vapor unit, changing the way it was sensing RPM, anything and everything their guys could think of. Finally, I said I could live without the tach, so they gave me a Vector unit. It works perfectly and I have it wired into the voltage regulator wire. I ended up leaving Trail Tech with my Vapor unit, the new Vector unit, their wiring terminal kit and crimpers and a complete spare set of sensors and wires. I'm going to try the Vapor on my wife's Banshee eventually. I really like the Vector, trying to read the tach on the Vapor was to hard when you're riding, and I am happy with the way Trail Tech backed up their product.
  10. I bought a Vapor and installed it on my Banshee. I had nothing but problems with it. I tried powering it with a 9 volt battery and also tapped into the wire going to the voltage regulator. If the bike was below 100 degrees and you revved it above 7200 RPM, the vapor would reset itself.I took the bike to Trail Tech for help with this, they replaced the temp sensor, tried all the ways shown in the instructions to sense RPM, and even tried a different unit, but we could not get it to stop resetting itself. Finally, I said I could live without the tach feature, so they gave me a Vector unit instead. I have it powered by the voltage regulator wire and it works fine. They also gave me a spare temp sensor and some other goodies. They were great to deal with and I will deal with them again.
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