bansheesandrider

Yes, it is fixed now, but you will have more problems in the future so you should still get a manual and read up as much as you can so you can communicate your future problems efficiently.

Your port timing NEEDS to match your stroke- so if you go with a 4mil stroker, you will need to get it ported to match. A long rod crnk will not make any more power over a stock rod crank, assuming they are both the same stroke. It will make the motor more reliable. To get to a 68mm bore, you will have to install big bore sleeves in the stock cylinders and they will reduce the size of the transfer ports so much it won't have any power. Depending on what is done now, I would put on a set of pipes, a better filter(pods or 2 into 1), bump the compression(coolhead or cut and chamber the stock head), bump the timing(modify the stock plate or Chariot timing plate), and jet it accordingly. When you are due for a top end, you will need to decide if you can afford to port and/or install a stroker crank. If you can afford to buy a crank and new domes for the cool head in addition to getting it bored AND ported then you would be set up with a 4mil. If you can't get the crank and domes, then just get it ported and you will still like it. BUT, if you port for stock stroke, you may not be able to port those cylinders for a 4mil later, so you would have to buy different cylinders and have them portrd for the 4mil later. If you cut and chamber the stock head and port the stock cylinders, it will still LOOK stock to the casual observer.

NO, don't use and impact wrench, you will either not get it tight enough or you will overtighten it and damage the threads on the crank eventually. The correct way of doing it is to make sure the key is properly seated and put some Loctite on the threads, and then tighten it with a torque wrench to the proper spec per the service manual. If you reead the FACTORY service manual it will tell you how to do this properly.

Since you are obviously inexpierenced, you need to get a service manual and read it, you should also read as much of the technical info on here as you can so you become familiar with the parts on your bike and the correct name and function of each. This will enable you to properly describe your problem to us in the proper terminology so we can help you quickly and clearly.

There are 2 ways to take off chrome- sand(grind) it off, or take them to a chromer and have them do it, which costs as much as having them rechromed.

The shorter tires have less sidewall flex and will give you a more solid feel in the corners, this would be good for MX. The taller tires will give you a little more ground clearance at the expense of a little wiggle in the corners, this would be better for trails or cross country riding.

Are you sure your crank is OK? Usually scoring of the case is caused by the rod bearing being bad in the crank and the rod itself drags on the cases. Or could it be previous damage? Either way it is OK to run.

The blue wire is for the tail light. If you are keeping the tail light then you need to splice it to the yellow also. If you are not running a tail light you can remove it or just tape it up.

With the clip installed in the switch as it would be when you are riding the bike, connect an ohmmeter to the 2 wires and check the reading- it will either be infinite(open) or close to zero(closed).

Your throttle is NOT something you want to have Mickey Moused together. A stuck throttle can cause serios injury to you and your bike, and a broken bike in the middle of nowhere sucks. Buy the right cable and/or throttle housing and set it up right.

What you bought will work OK, but the best stuff to put in is Klotz Flex Drive 30(part number KL506). I have ran it for years in at least 4 different bikes and I have never had a problem with my tranny and clutch. I have not had problems with shift forks, bearings, gears, etc. I have never even had any problems with clutch balls welding to the pushrod. It is a little expensive, but expensive oil is still cheaper than buying parts or having a ride cut short. It is also a litttle hard to come by, I order mine from Rocky Mountain ATV as my local shop that carried it closed up.

Looks to me like this is a middle man for the Electrosport stators, just like Moose Racing. Are you having problems with one or do you just want to know if they are OK to buy? So far, I have not heard anything bad about Electrosport stators.

If both headlights are burned out on both high and low beams, there is a good chance that your voltage regulator is BAD and is putting to much voltage to the bulbs and blowing them.

Which style kill switch do you have- normally open or normally closed?

You need to rejet it anyway if you just put pipes on. We need to know what pipes, other mods, elevation, gas/oil mix you are running. Every bike jets out differently depending on these things.

12mm head bolts are 10mm threads WRONG, 12mm head bolts are 8mm threads!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

MY recipe has always been: better filter, pipes, bump the timing, more compression by either cutting and chambering the stock head or going with a cool head, in that order. You could do the timing and compression mods fairly cheap first, BUT anything more than that you need to get a set of pipes so you can get more air in and out of the engine. Pipes DO NOT shorten cylinder life, but the fact that the bike will be ridden harder will cause more wear on the entire bike if it is not properly maintained. After you do the initial set of mods I mentioned, you will want to port the cylinders and improve your reeds-my bike has ported reed cages with Boyesen reeds. Until you start increasing displacement you don't need to go to a carb that is bigger than 28mm= on my bike I just had the stockers bored out from 26mm to 28mm. Also, you will not see any major power increase from boring the cylinders bigger- if you see a power increase from dong that, it means your top end was tired and the power is coming from having rings that seal and better compression. If you make a big jump in bore size, like from 64mm to 66mm or bigger, you will see an increase, but not from the usual cleanup bore. Also, the cheapest power increaser is to make sure your bike is PROPERLY maintained, lubed and jetted.

The last time I answered a redundant post(about the park brake rev limiter and TORS) I first reminded them to use the search function and then wrote a long paragraph explaining it once again. People need to do a little research BEFORE they ask questions and supply the basic info we need so we have a starting point to help them. I am always willing to help someone out if they can tell me what I need to know to start out.

I got excellent service from them when Kevin and Becky were the owners, but since they sold out it has gone downhill. I got a seat from them in January, I supplied half of the vinyl in the seat because they could not get what we wanted and they still charged me the full normal price for it. This was after spending over 300 on silencers and other parts when we ordered the seat and another 300 when we picked up the seat. They do have nice chrome, but if you go directly to Oregon Plating you will get the same thing as that is who does it for Cascade. Because they are local and they do have alot of nice stuff, I do business with them, BUT it is not nearly the company that it used to be.

You will still need to pay for the boring on top of that and it probably includes low quality gaskets.

Small carbs give you better throttle response and fuel mileage, bigger carbs give you more top end power and suck more fuel so a tank of fuel won't go as far. Depending on your finacial situation, you could buy bigger carbs or you could just get the stockers bored to 28mm. If the bike has enough power just make sure you are jetted properly and ride it.

Since you didn't use the search, I will walk you through this. The wire going to the clutch lever HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH TORS! It is a park brake rev limiter controlled by the CDI box. The only proper way to get rid of it is to cut the green/yellow wire IN THE BIKE HARNESS at the CDI box plug. The rev limiter is engaged when that wire is connected to ground, so you don't want it accidently shorting to ground. If you have a problem related to the park brake rev limiter, the bike will usually start and idle fine, BUT runs bad when you rev the throttle. If you are talking about the black/white wire going to the left handlebar, that is the wire to the kill switch and it shuts off the engine by connecting to ground, so it should be connected to the kill switch and nothing else. TO DISABLE THE TORS SYTEM, ALL you need to do is unplug the little black box under the left side of the fuel tank next to the coil. That will disable the TORS so it will not be the reason if you don't have spark. The TORS removal kit just gets rid of the big carb tops and cleans things up so it is easier to work on.The TORS system uses a logic box that if it does not see the proper signals from the switches in the carbs and thumb throttle, it kills the spark and shuts down the engine. This is to prevent a runaway if you let off the throttle and the carb slides do not close. If the TORS malfunctions, the bike won't start at all. NOW, since you put an alternative fuel in it and it started and ran briefly, that should have told you that you have spark, and are not getting fuel to make it run. You need to make sure there is fuel in the tank and getting to the carbs. If it is, then you need to tear apart your carbs, ONE AT A TIME so you don't mix up any parts, and clean and adjust them. You really need to get a Clymers or factory service manual and spend some time on here reading the forums and technical information.

Where and how do you ride? What is your timing set at? How is your bike ported? Is the porting setup for the 4mil or stock stroke? What carbs do you have now?

Racing at the bowls, my stock Banshee would eat my buddy's 250R 3 wheeler and beat the 4 wheelers. My buddy had pipes, cut head, bigger carb, etc. I had 2 other buddies, 1 with a TRX250R that was opened up to 290 or so and the other 1 had a Banshee. They went through various stages of builds, the 250 always had more done to it to just keep up. Everytime the 250 got close to hanging withe the Banshee, the Banshee guy would add something more, he never had more than pipes, a cut head, and bumped timing. AND, the guy on the 250 was way lighter.

That and running your mix at 40:1 with a good oil such as Klotz R50!!!!!!!!!