bansheesandrider

Every bike jets out differently, even with the same mods as another bike. You will need to go up on your jets and do a plug chop and see how it runs. I would put a 27.5 pilot on it and probably a 300 main and do a plug chop.

No, you need to jet it properly. If it is too rich then you are wasting fuel, the hotter plug MIGHT keep it from fouling as fast but it is still not going to run as hard as it should because it is still rich. The heat range of the plug has NOTHING to do with how hot the mixture in the cylinder burns, it has to do with how the plug burns off the deposits that get on the insulator during combustion.

Not to throw water on your fire, but I lost my first crank on my bike with nothing more done to it but pipes and a K&N filter in the airbox when the bike was a year and a half old. The crank spread and took out the thrust washers for the rod and then the bearing failed causing over $700 damage and that was fixing it myself. Because of this, I weld every crank on any Banshee I own ASAP, I don't want to lose another crank and ruin all my other nice parts when it lets go- if you are lucky when it lets go all you will need to replace is the crank, pistons, and head( or domes if it is a coolhead). If you are not lucky, you may have to replace cases or cylinders.

I would recomend a die grinder with a carbide burr over a Sawzall. You will be able to grind exactly whee you need to to make the outer shell break and then you can pull it out with pliers.

I don't know what manual recomends a 7, the factory manuals I have ALL say to use an 8. All Banshees running on gasoline should use an 8, if you are running alky or nitrous will probably use a 9 as Phelps said.

A leak test insures that the motor will not suck air from anywhere other than the intake tract, because of things like poorly sealed cases(not enough Yamabond), or a gasket that did not seal up like it should have or some other problem.

Remove your clutch cover, it is right there on the end of the crank. Also inspect the key in the gear and make sure when you move the shifter, that it turns the shift star/drum. If this all checks out, then you will probably have to split the cases. If you don't know what the things I mentioned are, you need to get a service manual and start reading so you know how your bike works. Also spend some time on this website reading the technical information and some of the threads in the repair section.

Since you put on different carbs, you did away with the TORS crap at the carbs, BUT did you unplug the control box under the left side of the fuel tank next to the coil?

Which Toomeys,T3,T4,T5,T6? Usually Toomeys require a mainjet in the 280-320 area and possibly a 27.5 pilot,depending on your mods. Make sure the carbs are clean, the bowls are on the correct carb, the slides are in the correct carb,and the choke tube is in place.

Mine does this when cold but goes away when the tranny warms up. You could solve it by putting the rubber rings back in the clutch, that is why Yamaha installed them in the first place. They help the plates of the clutch seperate when you pull the lever. It doesn't hurt anything the way it is, but you do run the risk of welding the ball to the clutch pushrod if you are reving it up with the clutch lever pulled.

310 might be a little fat. My wife's bike runs FMF Fattys with a toomey 2:1 K&N filter and it is jetted 290 mains and 27.5 pilots at sea level. With your slightly higher altitude you should be just slightly leaner.

They show the plugs on the page that shows the shift drum and forks. It is part number 90334-10006-00 if you are not able to look it up yourself. And as was mentioned, they are made for 1 install and when remove they are junk, also use some Yamabond 4 when you install them to seal it up.

32:1 is 1 pint(16 ounces) to 4 gallons of gas. 40:1 is 1 pint(16 ounces) to 5 gallons of gas.

You definetely NEED to port it, but if it is ported for a stock stroke you may not be able to report it for a 4 mil later. If you are going 4 mil, you will need a crank, 795 series pistons, a coolhead with stroker domes and probably some bigger carbs. This assumes that you already have pipes. You will also want to bump the timing, but you can mod the stock plate to achieve this. Then there is shift mods, a billet impeller to keep it cool, a heavier clutch(at least heavier springs) and the list goes on forever. You can build a pretty strong bike by adding pipes, cutting and chambering the stock head, getting the cylinders and reed cages ported, installing Boyesen reeds, boring the stock carbs to 28mm, welding the stock crank, adding 3 Toomey springs to the clutch, modding the shift star and timing plate, and adding a +4 swingarm. This would be within your budget and will fly right up Choke Cherry Hill. All of this assumes that your stock crank and clutch are in good shape, and you get a deal on a swingarm or have your stocker lengthened($150 exchange at Cascade).

You get what you pay for. If they are cheaper, they either are heavier or won't hook up as good or will come apart on the first ride.

Try Extreme Billet Sports Inc. Also, I believe Cascade will custom engrave, but they might have a minimum quantity.

Are you talking about an o ring for the clutch cover? If so, it goes on the water pipe. If you are talking about at the clutch basket there is no O ring there. As far as the cushion rings go, aftermarket clutches do NOT use them and they can be eliminated from the stock clutch also. Yamaha put them in there so the cluch plates would seperate when you pull the lever and the clutch won't drag, I also think it was left over from the RZ350 days when you don't want a dragging clutch trying to move the bike at a stoplight.

NO, Banshees through the 1990 model all had J arms. The 1991 model is when the put A arms on them.

Who modded the shift star? Did they grind too much off? Is the roller and spring reinstalled properly? Did you adjust the shift shaft correctly? Is the hook on the shift shaft too sloppy? If you want help, we need info.

The voltage regulator on a Banshee ONLY regulates the lighting circuit. The CDI box regulates the ignition circuit.

Most of the plugs are different between 90 and 02, but the only one that affects a motor swap is the stator plug. I would recomend just swapping the stator out on the motors so you have the correct stator for the year of the chassis as that way the bike will not look cobbled together and be more appealling to a buyer. As far as TORS is concerned, just leave the control box unplugged, It has a 3 wire plug and is on the frame under the left side of the gas tank beside the coil.

No, they took the sensible route and have what they call rider fit guidelines, so as long as the rider fits the bike they are on it doesn't matter what the recomended age is. The only bad thing is in the next couple of years they are going to require hands on training for riders under 16 and the training course people still go by the age recomendations.

All Banshee swingarms are the same, 87-88 used a carrier that had 4 short bolts like you have, 89 on used the style with 2 long bolts. You should be able to put that carrier on your swingarm, you may need to spread the ears on the swingarm a little. I know you can retrofit the 2 bolt carrier to an 87-88 swingarm, so it should work the other way also. If you are going by part numbers for different year bikes, they are different because the 87-88 swingarmm is painted white and the later swingarms are usually silver. Yamaha uses different part numbers for different colors, but they are the same swigarm under the paint.

Make sure all your grounds are connected, a wire might have been on a screw for the plastic and you missed it.

Make sure the float height is correct. Or, take them back to the shop and have them make it right.