bansheesandrider

Could be the rubber plugs on the bottom of the cylinders leaking and the coolant is following the stud through the cases.

This sounds like a TORS problem. Has the TORS system been deactivated? Try unplugging the little black box under the left side of the fuel tank, next to the coil. You should definetely get a TORS removal kit if you have not already done so.

NO, you need to split the cases because the crank seals have a rib that runs around the outside that fits in a groove in the case.

My bike was doing the same thing. The problem was the check ball in the cap vent was sticking and not letting air in the tank so fuel could flow. The next time it does this yank the hose off the petcock and see if fuel is flowing.

No they are not. Once I took the foot guards off my wife's 97 A arm bike, her actual footpeg is the same as the pegs on my 89 Jarm bike,except for the stop for the kick starter.

Before you give them away, go on a website and see how much stock wheels cost. They are expensive and that is probably why your buddy wants them. Since I put my sand tires an stock wheels, I have had no problems with bead leaks or any other leaks, nor have I had a bent wheel.

First it is a 7 year old post and second, you can just unplug the TORS box under the fuel tank to eliminate the TORS system, you don't have to remove everything.

Your caliper slide pins or even the caliper piston are froze up. Rebuild the caliper and make sure the pins it slides on are free and the boots over the pins are in good shape. If your boots are bad you will have to get boots for a Honda TRX250R as Yamaha does not sell the boots seperately and the Honda uses the same caliper.

Actually it is 87-94 to work with the plug on your engine.

TORS can be DISABLED by just unplugging the little black box under the left side of the fuel tank next to the coil, nothing else needs to be done to disable it. The delete kits get rid of the funky carb tops and make it easier to work on the carbs.

A milled stock head does add compression just like a Cool Head, but it does not add coolant capacity, which may or may not cool the bike better. If the head you have is from Pro Design, you will have to remove the head studs from your old cylinders and install them in your new ones. If it is a cool head from one of the other manufacturers you may not have to change the studs. I run a cut and chambered stock head on my bike and have been happy with it for almost 20 years.

You will need a coil for a Banshee, either a stocker or a Dynatek. I don't think a 428 chain is big enough, I would use a 520.

YES it works, I have done it twice on my 89. I would not have posted it if it did not work.

As far as I know, Yamaha DOES NOT offer a kit. They only sell the individual pieces. It depends on your dealership, if they are ATV oriented they may stock it, if they are street oriented, then you will be ordering. My local dealer, which is the biggest in the Portland metro area did not stock one part for a Banshee when I bought my first one new in 1989.

I have been running one on all of my Banshees for about the last 20 years. I have a K&N element on mine because we ride sand. The K&N used to be an option from Toomey, but I don't think they offer it anymore. I like it because you can adjust it to clear your pipe and there is only one filter to clean and oil. I know it gives more performance over the airbox setups, I did not notice much of a change when I switched from pods to the 2 into 1 setup, but my pods were on the small side. Some guys on here say the pods give more airflow. If you run a waterproof Outerwears on it, it will help it from cutting out when water is splashed on it.

Yea, buy a kickstarter repair kit from Cascade or some of the other vendors on here and rebuild it. Also, if you do a search on here, there is a thread about an alternative way of fixing it.

Whatever pipes you put on, MAKE SURE THEY HAVE SILENCERS! Even drag pipes use silencers, and the ATV segment has enough morons doing things like riding where they shouldn't, hit and run, and loud pipes that give us a bad name. We are continuously fighting for land to ride on and the big complaints are noise and damage to plants and land.Everybody needs to do their part and keep their bikes quiet. It does not do any good to have mega power if there is no place to use it.

Look closely at most of the XXXX Saver tires, if you can read it they say " Max Speed 25 MPH".

The green/yellow wire is the park brake rev limiter wire and is only on 97 and newer bikes. It comes from the CDI box, not the stator and goes to the clutch lever, techically the park brake part of the clutch lever.

If you unplugged the throttle wires and did not unplug the control box that is your problem. Once the box is unplugged you can also unplug the wires on the carb. The TORS delete kits have nothing to do with the wiring, it is a new throttle cable, 2 new carb tops with adjusters and the good kits have a drill and tap and 2 idle screws. Also, I would stay away from stuff from RM Stator, they don't have the best reputation on BHQ. Some of their stators have been known to be bad right out of the box brand new.

I have always ran NGK in my 2 strokes, but occasionally I would have to run a Champion in it if I had to buy a plug on a Sunday. The only place that was open on a Sunday only carried a Champion. If I ran a Champion, it would only last for the one day, but NGKs would last forever in the same setup. Also, I tried them in the Torino street machine that I used to have and a month later it was running like crap. A new set of Motorcraft plugs and nothing else and it was running perfect again. That has been my expierence with Champions and that is what is wrong with them in my opinion.

The boxy look and the twin headlights are what make it look like a Banshee. That is why I don't like the Fullbore plastic or the Maier Raptor conversion.

Yea, buy a factory cable that is the right length instead of that POS Terminator cable.

I think you need to find a better hardware store as I have been able to get all the bolts I have needed for my Banshee at the local ACE hardware. The only one I can't get there are the swingarm and A arm and the long motor mount bolts. Yes the bolt you want to go through the plastic is special because of the large head but several vendors offer fender bolt kits. With the exception of the fine threaded bolts that screw into the bottom of the cases, all of the bolts are standard metric thread sizes.

NO, the wires going to the clutch lever are for the park brake rev limiter. All you need to do is disconnect those wires where they plug into the chassis harnes. The park brake rev limiter is controlled by the CDI box only, IT IS NOT CONNECTED TO THE TORS in any way, other than the black wire connects to the ground circiut which the TORS is also connected to. But if you just unplug the switch wires at the harness the only thing that will change is that you could rev the bike wide open with the park brake set if it is still on the bike. There is ALOT of misconception of what the TORS is and how it works. It is a Throttle OverRide Shutdown- it does not limit revs, it shuts down the ignition system if the carb slide are not in the idle position and the thumb throttle is in the idle position. It is also known for a high rate of failure and that is a legitamite reason to get rid of it. It can be disabled by unplugging the little black box under the left side of the fuel tank next to the coil. Oh yeah, to run the ASV lever you will also have to get rid of the park brake cable. But they are great levers, I have them on my bike and love them.