bansheesandrider

From what I have heard, 58swingarm is OK. Stay away from 2manysprees on Ebay.

I have never used the Clymers manual, but the factory manual is awesome.It has diagrams showing the proper routing of every cable and wire on a Banshee. It also has EVERY possible spec there is for a Banshee. It also shows all the correct lubricants and where you should be using Loctite.

Pipes should always be the first mod for power on a Banshee. But after adding pipes some people want more low end and a cut head is an easy way to get that. If it is a smoking deal, I would buy it and then find a way to get some pipes.

A previous owner might have put his name on it to make sure he got back HIS OWN crank from a rebuilder. That was what my father in law did when we welded the one in his 3 month old Banshee.

If you are going to do any performance mods, you do not want a stock bottom end. Before you start making power you need the bike to be reliable. After all, the bike can go farther in a half hour than you can walk in a day. And, when a bottom end fails it damages all your parts in the top end. That being said, split the cases, look everything over, have the crank rebuilt if needed and definetely have it trued and welded, make sure the kick idler bushing, shift shaft claw,and clutch basket cushions are all ggod. Then either buy a modded shift star or mod it yourself, or buy an easy shift kit, maybe do the shift shaft mod or get one from FAST, install a billet impeller in the water pump, Make sure the clutch is in good shape and maybe install some heavier springs. Also, make sure your carbs are clean, properly jetted and put together correctly, some parts are different between the 2 carbs so only take 1 apart at a time. If that stuff is done, then you should have a solid running bike that will hold up to some power. I would get a service manual and do the work yourself, that way you save money and know what makes it work so if it ever does fail on the trail you can possibly get it runnig and get back.

Before everybody starts tooting Rick's ELECTRICS horn, I had a CDI box from them that failed with less than 10 hours of ride time on it. They did replace it under warranty, I bought it because it was the only thing I could get while I was on my trip to St. Anthony's. I put a stocker back on and just carry it for a spare now.

Not the crossover/boost bottle, but thechoke crossover tube. It is the black rubber hose between the 2 carbs inline with the choke knob.

DON"T use a ProDesign head, they are overpriced and you have to change the studs. Get a head from Noss, less money and they use the stock studs. You should ABSOLUTELY get your crank trued and welded since you are on a budget. If your crank lets go, which it WILL do if it is not welded, it will damage your new pistons and head, your cases and possibly even more. Then you will have to buy it all again plus a new crank. With the cylinders off you should be able to tell if it has been welded by looking, but if you split the cases you will get a chance to see if there are any other problems. It is ALWAYS best to build it reliable BEFORE you build it fast. Also, you might want to do some shifter mods, a billet water pump impeller, and check your clutch basket, shift shaft and kickstarter idler gear while you are in there.When my idler got sloppy and the clip came off I had to buy an idler gear, a crank gear, a water pump gear and a new clutch basket because they all got damaged. The other thing to think about is when your bike fails, how long of a walk is it back to your truck.

I am not positive about this, but from your picture it looks like the plug might be missing and what you are actually lokking at is the end of the shift fork rail. If so, you need to get a plug in there. If the plug is in there then I would tip the bike up on its side, clean the hole REALLY WELL so there is no oil left in there and then seal it up with some RTV silicone sealer.

Good luck on finding a tap, it is 27mm LEFT HAND THREAD. You can try a 3 jaw puller or cut it apart to get it off if you are going to get a different one. If you are replacing it, you would be better off with a used OEM Yamaha one than a new aftermaerket flywheel.

Which Banshee pattern- 87-88 4 bolt or 89 on 6 bolt?

My crank let go with a stock motor that had a set of pipes on it and nothing else.I bought the bike brand new 16 months later I had a $750 repair bill, doing all the work myself. I was warned to get my crank welded, but I thought I would be OK with a stock motor. All the Banshees that I have bought since that one have been torn down and had the crank welded ASAP.

Yes, there should be some side clearance,BUT, if 1 side is signifcantly larger than the other, then your crank is probably seperating. That means it is time to split the cases and have the crank rebuilt, trued and welded.

You can just buy an LED bulb to go in the stock tail light housing- it is a 194 bulb if it is an early bike without a brakelight and if you have the big tail/brakelight it is an 1157 bulb. That way you don't have to do any splicing.

I put mine in the middle so grease goes to both sides equally. I used a 90 degree zerk so it is easier to get on and it is pointed to the side of the bike at a slight angle for access.

Automatic transmissions have between 2 and 6 wet clutch packs in them, so why wouldn't ATF be compatible with an ATV clutch? But I do prefer Klotz Flex Drive 30 for my Banshees, it just makes it shift better and I have never lost a clutch, gear,bearing, or even welded a clutch ball with it.

I think this is being overanalyzed.Of course your radiator is going to be hotter after you bump the timing. Why you ask- because you bumped the timing to get more horsepower and to make more horsepower you have to make more heat. So if you have more heat, your radiator is going to be hotter.

Yes they actually made the spindle change ion the 1990 models, so 1990s have jarms with the late style spindles. You can use your early spindles with A arms, but if you want to add YFZ(dual piston) calipers to it you will need to have the late style spindles.

THIS TOPIC HAS BEEN COVERED HUNDREDS OF TIMES, USE THE SEARCH BUTTON!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

According to my TrailTech temp gauge, my Banshee runs at 185-200 degrees when I am moving across the dunes. You can't hold your hand on the radiator at that temp and I would consider thst to be running normal. When I am racing the hil or doing tree shots or hillclimbs it can go up to 215 or more but that is when I do something to cool it off. Also, the hotter you run it, the shorter your ring life will be.

I put the Toomey bronze bushings in my 89 Banshee in about 1991 and they have been in there ever since. My bike gets greased regularly and the bushings are still tight. Much better than the stock plastic bushings it came with.

No shit, I wanted to know exactly what blueranger did to determine it was out of time- Did he stick something down the plug hole of each cylinder to determine when they are at TDC and BDC?Does he have the crank out so he can see if it is out of phase? From what I read in this thread, it sounds like he has had a timing light on it and the marks dont line up so he thinks the crank is twisted. But as I said before, the triggers and the supposed marks are both on the flywheel so that won't be accurate.

Exactly how did you determine one side is out of time?Both the triggers and the timing marks(?) are on the flywheel so that would not tell you if it is out of time. If the crank is twisted it will shake badly.

My take on RDZ is that somehow this site has done him wrong in the past and he wants to be a "fountain of misinformation" to everybody. Everything he posts is wrong or confusing or just pure nonsense. This is just my opinion, maybe I am wrong, but anymore I usually just skip reading his replies to any posts.

I prefer factory gaskets and especially factory seals. I also prefer the factory style head gasket over a thick copper type gasket.