bansheesandrider

Yes, it would seem that you need to go up on your pilots, but I think you also need to go down on your mains. My wifes bike at sea level and setup similar to yours ran 290 mains and 27.5 pilots.

The crank should be TIG welded, not MIG welded. You can do the sfift shaft mod yourself, there is a thread on here about it. There is also a roller kit that has a lighter spring for the shifter. I also run Klotz Flex Drive 30 oil in my tranny, it makes it shift much better than it did with motor oil, ATF, BelRay GearSaver, or Honda tranny oil. It is a little pricey though.

Early bikes did, but the later ones did not match the motor to the frame.

YES you would be crazy not to true and weld your crank. I had my first crank seperate on my bike with nothing more than pipes on it. It cost me over $700 to repair the damage. You can true and weld the stock crank, you don't have to g to a 4 mil stroker crank to have it trued and welded. Also, if you port your motor for a stock stroke, you may not be able to use the cylinders on a 4 mil as the port timing may not work out with the longer stroke.

FYI, and I don't know for sure, but I believe that Electrosport is the supplier to Moose. They both used to have the exact same picture on their websites for the stator. Also, the outputs and wiring are the same and I have been told that Moose BUYS their parts from other sources and puts their name on it. That being said, most people think that a Moose stator is OK.I would definetely stay away from Ricky Stator and also RM Stator stuff. I would buy a used OEM stator before buying a New aftermarket one, but there are no high output OEM stators.

Yes there is a BUSHING in the case and it could be wore too much, letting the shift shaft move around in the seal causing it to leak. Also if the shaft is grooved it will leak. I normally replace the bushing when I have the cases split. If I was doing the repair, I would replace the bushing, shift shaft, and seal with NEW parts.

The ONLY thing you have to do to disable theTORS system is unplug the control box, everything else can stay hooked up. The TORS eliminator kit just gets rid of the big bulky carb tops and provides a new way to adjust your idle once the carb tops are gone. The 93 Banshee that my father in law bought brand new from a dealer came with the box unplugged because that dealer was tired of fighting it on all the bikes he sold, so he just started unplugging them when he did predelivery setup.

The TORS will not prevent rider error, it is only designed to prevent the engine from continuing to run at more than an idle once the thumb throttle is closed. It failed without warning because that is how modern electronics fail, because everything is solid state they work OK until they don't work at all.

No, that is the park brake rev limiter and as you can read from his follow up, it was the TORS system. They are 2 seperate systems and have 2 different sets of symptons, problems and repairs.

If it was the park brake rev limiter it would miss and sputter when he tries to rev it. He said it dies when he tries to rev it and that is what the TORS system does, it cuts the ignition completely when the throttle and carb switches are not in the right sequence or it is screwed up. He unplugged the TORS box and it solved the problem. TORS is a stand alone system and the park brake rev limiter is built into the CDI box.

If you are running stock stroke/110 rods you need 513 series pistons and nothing else. If you are running stock stroke/115 rods, you need 795 series pistons and nothing else. If you are runninig a 4 mil crank/110 rods you need to either have a 2mm spacer plate OR stroker domes and use the 513 series piston. If you are running a 4 mil crank with 115 rods, you need to have either a 2mm spacer plate OR stoker domes AND the 795 series piston. The 795 series piston corrects for the added length of the longer rods and the spacer plate or stoker domes correct for the additional rise of the stroker crank.

Do you still have the park brake rev limiter hooked up? Go to the CDI box plug and on the bike harness side, cut the green/yellow wire. DO NOT connect the wire to anything else, Make sure you cut it on the bike side of the plug,not on the CDI box side of the plug, that way the plug acts as an insulator to keep the wire from shorting to ground. That is what the switch does, connects the green/yellow wire to ground to engage the rev limiter. This is one of the things that should be done to all Banshees that have it, just like removing the TORS system. The switches are known to short out when they get wet and then the CDI box thinks the park brake is set and limits the revs.

X2, only use a stock box or a Dyna, all others are a joke.

The springs and valving are going to be to soft for a Banshee. A Blaster is about 50 pounds lighter than a Banshee, does not have the power and speed of a Banshee, and most Blaster riders do not weigh as much, nor are as aggresive as Banshee riders. If a Banshee shock is an upgrade on a Balster, that tells me that a Blaster shock on a Banshee is a downgrade.

When I went to mechanic's school many years ago, I was taught the proper wat to do a compression test on ANY engine was to warm up the engine and remove ALL the spark plugs.I have always done it that way and on my personal bike I got 185 psi after the rings were seated doing it that way. So, how was the compresssion transfering from 1 cyl to the other if my compresion was that high? How would it transfer anyway as they are two seperate cylinders and it is certainly NOT the spark plug that seperates one cylinder from the other? If the plug is out of the second cylinder it lets the motor turn over easier as the second cylinder has no resistance from compression and you are only wanting to read the compresion in the cylinder the gauge is installed in. Yes there is a groove in the airbox, but the lid has 2 fingers that come down and hold the filter into the groove.

All you have to do to DISABLE the TORS on a Banshee is unplug the little black box under the left side of the fuel tank next to the coil. If you want to remove it, you need a kit with a cable, carb tops, cable adjusters and an idle screw kit. If the box is unplugged, you don't even need to unplug the carbs or thumb throttle.

The factory Banshee service manual is an EXCELLENT manual, the drawback to it is that it is expensive. If you can get a free download of that I would get it. Most guys on here say to go with Clymers because you can buy one for around $30 whereas the factory manual is more like $75. I have not used a Clymers as I have a factory manual myself. It has all the info I have ever needed.

You should not bore stock cylinders for more power, you should only bore the stock cylinders to restore proper cylinder clearances. You can go .100 over on stock cylinders but you might have overheating issues and/or head gasket problems.

First, do you have the aluminum adapter plate in your airbox for the filter? If you don't and you don't run the lid, you are sucking dirt in past the filter because the lid is what holds the filter tight to the airbox in the stock setup. Second, check your compression- use a high quality compression gauge, remove both plugs, hold the throttle wide open and kick it until the needle quits climbing.Stock bikes should be around 120 if it is below 100 it might be time for a top end. If the compression is good, then clean your carbs and check your jetting. Let us know what your setup is- pipes, porting, compression, altitude and any other modifications to the bike. When you clean the carbs, only take 1 apart at a time as some parts are different between the left and right carbs. Also make sure the black hose between the carbs is there. It is not the fuel line, it is directly inline with the choke on the inside of the left carb, it is how the choke works for the right carb and if it is not there it will cause an air leak and poor running and hard starting.

87-89 use the early style spindle and caliper, 90 on use the late style spindle and caliper. J arm bikes are 87 through 90 and A arm bike are 91 on. So as you can see, the 1990 J arm bikes had the later style spindle and calipers. You just have to make sure that your calipers match your spindles and you can use either style on either type of suspension arm. And if you want to put YFZ450 calipers on your Banshee, you need the late style spindle for them to bolt up.

My stockers are bored to 28mm. They work great, but I can't really tell you how much of a difference just boring the carbs made because they were done by JD Racing when they ported my cylinders and reed cages and the rest of my performance work.

Or the idler snap ring could have come off and gone through the gears and tore up a tooth, causing the tick.

This topic has been covered multiple times, you should use the search function. There have been many at length discussions about both premix oil and tranny oil.

There is not a lot of material there in the frame to hold the HeliCoil. That is why they strip out in the first place.

Brandon sent me an email last week saying that he hoped to have impellers at the end of this week and that they would include a coated shaft now.