bansheesandrider

Yes, the lowers are definitely Warrior ball joints. You can get them at a Yamaha dealer, or CheapCycle Parts.com or Bike Bandit. The application is a 1987 Yamaha Warrior ATV.

My bike shifted OK with BelRay GearSaver, it shifts better with Klotz. The whole reason that I discovered the Klotz was that the dealer I was getting my BelRay from was always out of it when I went in to get some. As Dajogejr said, I know what works for me and it is Klotz. I also know ATF did not work for me. That is one of the good things about our country- you are free to make your own choices. Because I work on so many different bikes I keep plenty of the Klotz on hand and whenever I order from Rocky MT, I throw a few quarts in the order as long as it is coming ground anyway.

When mine came off, the clip and washer ran through the gears in the clutch cover- I had to buy a new clutch basket, crank gear, water pump gear and idler gear plus all the washers, snap rings, lock tabs and gaskets to put it back together. This was one of the few breakdowns I had while at the dunes and since we were there for a week, it cost a fortune to buy all those parts locally, because I did not want to sit around camp all week. Collateral damage can be expensive- just something to think about.

Car trannys have coolers and filters.When I ran ATF(and motor oil) I had problems with the way it shifted and glitter in the oil when I drained it. I even tore it down but could not find a problem. Put it back together, it still did not shift very good and there was still glitter in the oil when I drained it. When I started running Klotz it shifted better than it ever did and there is no glitter. As for what I know and how much I spend, well I have had my 89 since day 1 and have built it from the ground up 3 times, I stopped counting how much money I have sunk into when I hit 20 grand, and that does not include oil, plugs and gas. I also have had 2 other Banshees for my wife and I am the mechanic for about 5 or 6 other Banshees that I ride with. When we go to the dunes, it is very rare for any of the bikes I am resposible for to break down. Also, I have been a professional mechanic for over 25 years so I think I know my way around things. As was already said, I don't think that after spending thousands of dollars to build a bike that it makes sense to buy the cheapest oil you can for it. This doesn't apply to 2 strokes, but I have taken apart motors that had cheap oil in them and found all kinds of problems that were caused by crappy oil. I have taken apart axles, transmissions and differentials that were comletely destroyed because the cheap no name oil that was used in them did not provide adequate lubrication and protection. I have seen first hand the benefits of using good high quality lubricants and I think it pays off in the long run to use good stuff and change it at the proper interval. I happen to think that oil is a VERY essential part of your engine/ tranny. Like I said before, I have never lost a gear(except a kick idler bushing),bearing, shift fork or clutch ball in the 21 years I have owned my Banshee or the 14 years my wife has had one or the 20 years of Blasters I have had between my wife and kid. I am just stating that when I ran ATF in my bike it shifted poorly compared to how it shifts with the Klotz, and as expensive as the Klotz is, I think that it provides an excellent value for the money. Alot of drag race guys swear by ATF and that is their choice, but if you stop and figure out how little time they get out of the ATF before they change it and compare it to how long you can run the Klotz, I would bet the cost per mile/hour is probably in favor of the Klotz and you get zero wear and better shifting out of it. I did not mean to offend anybody by saying they could not afford expensive oil, I just meant that we should use the best stuff on our pride and joys.

X2 If the bushing is wore, the clip will never stay on.

All Banshees squeak at one time or another. Mine will squeak right after I grease it and when it is dry as dirt it will be quiet. Idoudt that the coolant leak is causing it. But I would get rid of the overflow bottle like most people do.

Well, as I said before, when I ran ATF I had all kinds of glitter in the oil when I drained it and the bike shifted like crap. Since I have been running the Klotz there is no glitter and it shifts great. Furthermore,even though none of our bike have pancake bearings, I have never had a problem with welding a clutch ball to the pushrod in my bike or the 2 Banshees we have had for the wife, or even in the kid's Blaster, and both of them like to hold the clutch in and let the bike coast down hills. Like I said, I have an hourmeter on the bike so I run it 20 hours and drain it. It could be in there even longer from the way it looks when it comes out, but oil is cheaper and easier than bearings and gears. Besides, nothing but the best for my toys. If you can't afford to buy oil, why do you own a Banshee?

You have the size of the OEM bearing listed in your post. The Wiseco bearing is the same as the OEM bearing.The bearing has to fit the rod and the wristpin which are both stock or stock sized.You can use the Wiseco pin in stock pistons because it is a 16mm diameter pin just like the Yamaha one. But, I was told the Wiseco pistons have a different size groove, requiring a different circlip. But, I could be wrong.

I am just outside of Portland. Hoping to get on the sand next month maybe. This economy and the new jobs for both the wife and I are really cutting into my riding.

Wiseco has .010,.020,.030,.040,.050,.060 for sure and possibly.080 and.100.

I can get a crank from Twister for 350 and since they are 40 mins from me and all the other cranks and machine work I got from them, I think I will stick with them.

You need to use NEW Yamaha clips with the OEM pistons and NEW Wisco clips with Wiseco pistons. I would NOT reuse any base or head gasket- once it has been tightened down and ran through a heat cycle it will NOT conform to a new surface. If I was doing a repair ot in the boonies using the same parts then I would reuse them, but you are installing a different set of cylinders against your old cases and head. You really need to have new gaskets. The gaskets and wrist pin clips won't cost more than $60. You can use the Wisce wrist pin, it is the same size as the stocker.

Anybody know anything about the welded cranks that Minkia38 is selling on Ebay? He says they are custom built in Cali. for him but he hasn't told me where the pieces come from.

I just got an email from Brandon and he hopes to have the Mull Engineering impeller available in a week or so and it is now going to include a coated shaft.

I have been using it for about 18 years in my Banshees. First I used motor oil like the book says, it shifted like crap and there was glitter in the oil when I drained it. I evev split the cases but found no abnormal wear or the source of the glitter. Then I tried ATF, it still shifted like crap and there was still glitter. Then I tried BelRay GearSaver, it shifted OK and the glitter was less. Then my dealer was out of GearSaver so I tried the Honda gear oil, it shifted so bad that I drained it out after 1 short ride. After that I tried the Flev Drive 30 because I was already using Klotz premix oil and liked it. With the Klotz it shifts awesome, there is no glitter in the oil when I drain it and I have never lost a clutch,bearing, shift fork, or had a clutch ball weld to the pushrod(no pancake bearing). The only draw back is it is spendy and I have to mail order it from Rocky Mt. as no local vendors carry it. I have an hourmeter on my bike and change it every 20 hours, it usually looks pretty good coming out.

I have taken out 2 ProDesigns that the shaft was heavily wore. I would go with the Mull, but it has been unavailable since the spring.

No, the spindles are different.

Why are you running B7ES plugs. ALL Banshees except those on alchohol should run a B8ES, BR8Es, or equivalant. I would switch to the B8ES and make sure the jetting is correct, someone may have been trying to correct the wrong jetting with a incorrect spark plug. The factory plug is still made it is a B8ES or BR8es and that is the most poular 2 stroke plug in the world. Iridium plugs should work but I have never seen the need for them in the 21 years that I have owned a Banshee.

A Banshee should look like a Banshee. If you want your bike to look like a Raptor, go buy a Raptor. I could live with the rears with a race cut front, but the stupid looking Raptor front on a Banshee is UGLY. Yes, I know it says it is for a Banshee, but it is Raptor styling.

Your loose pipe is leaking at the pipe/silencer connection. You might need a new hose at the connection/clamp. It needs to be high temp silicone hose to last.

Do you want to remove the shift SHAFT or the CLUTCH arm? From the direction this thread is going it sounds like you are talking about the clutch arm. Try levering it out gently, if the pushrod, ball and retainer are removed, it should come right out. The pushrod is about 6 inches long and is inside the shaft after the ball, it is out? If it won't come something is damaged.

No, they have a built in battery.

The Vapor has a tach and warning lights that the Endurance does not. I had a Vapor but had problems with the tach and the unit resetting. I took the bike to TrailTech twice and they could not fix it. In between the 2 trips I decided that the tach was useless when riding because it was too hard to read and watch the trail. They ended up giving me a Vector which is the same thing as a Vapor but without a tach, it has the warning lights and hourmeter and maintenance reminders which is what I really wanted. It works awesome.

Just want everybody to know that going by the directions that this is NOT in the ODNRA, it is north of town and the dunes are south of town. There are some private places to ride north of town, this must be one of them.

Your pegs were probably modified. I bought my 89 and my wife's 96 brand new from the dealer and the pegs were the same.The pegs on the 97 I bought used for my wife also match up to my 89. I also just looked it up on CheapCycleParts.com for an 89 and 96 and they are the same part numbers. That being said, I have since moved the pegs on my 89 back and down so it is easier to stand up from a sitting position. The peg now comes out from between the 2 mounting bolts instead of being in front and above the bolts.