bansheesandrider

You are talking about the ATV Safety Institute course. Oregon now has it's own Operator Permit requirement that is done by taking an online test and getting a permit card that you are supposed to carry with you when you are riding. Basically an Off Road Drivers Lisence.

Depends onn the box, most of the ones on Ebay are a rip off. I would only use a box made by Yamaha, Dyna, or MSD in that order. When I went to St, Anthony's in 2008, I had a CDI box failure. The only thing I could get while I was there was a box from Rick's Electrics. We put it on and the bike never did run right the rest of the trip. We got home and the bike sat for 4 weeks and then we went on a day trip and had to tow the thing to get it started. By the end of the day it would not even start when towing it. Trouble shot it and found the CDI box was bad again by putting a stocker back on. This was with less than 20 hours on the Rick's box. They did warranty it for me after a major hassle and I now just carry it as a spare. The Dyna is cool because you can adjust the curves by the switches or make your own curve with a laptop if you are set up for it. The ones on Ebay that say more RPM and/or hotter spark are BS and will probably fail shortly after installing.

X2 on Twister Crankshafts. They do all my cranks and I have had no problems. They are local for me and Louie even walked me thruogh one of my cranks as he did it for me.

I would do a plug chop at the RPM it is bogging at and see where you are at. My gut feeling is that you need a 27.5 pilot and your main should be in the 280-300 area and run the clip in the middle.The screw at the back corner is your idle mixture screw. On the 96 bike my wife had we had to go to a 27.5 pilot when we put a K&N 2 into 1 filter on it with stock pipes at sea level, to get rid of the bog it had(and there was no air leak, I checked).

Synthetic oil is fine as long as it is rated for wet clutch/gearbox use. The Klotz Flex Drive 30 is synthetic and it works great, never lost a bearing, gear, shift fork, or clutch ball, and the bike shifts great and the clutch doesn't slip.

There are a whole list of problems it could be, but start with the basics. Take your carbs apart, one at a time so you don't mix up parts between them, and clean them thoroghly. Put them back on and make sure that the choke hose is on as well as all the other required tubes. Also make sure that none of the wire harness is pinched, rubbed, or shorted. Does the bike still have the park brake rev limiter? If you Google "Banshee service manual" there should be a pdf file of the factory service manual come up. You can find parts diagrams at several websites such as CheapCycleParts.com or Chaparal Motorsports or several other OEM parts sites.

That is why professional builders turn the motor over after every single piece is put on.

1.5 turns means 1 full turn and then another 1/2 turn(360 degrees +180 degrees). Also, the fuel pouring out of your carb could be caused by the o-ring on the outside of the seat being bad and letting fuel into the carb around the outside of the seat instead of through the seat and needle. If you take the retainer off the seat and turn the carb over and the seat falls out, the o-ring is bad. The seat should stick in the carb and have to be pulled out.

Maybe or maybe not. MY expierence has been that I use the Klotz and have NEVER had a problem with it. But alot of guys on here swear by ATF and alot of guys on here are welding clutch balls.

I have never seen a set of cases that had epoxied holes from the factory. Sounds like somebody has been there before.

No, on a mechanical water temp gauge you can not shorten the tubing. You will just have to coil the excess tubing up and tuck it out of sight. You would have to come up with some kind of fitting to go in the upper radiator hose as there is nowhere on the engine to screw in the probe.

Guys are running Type F and then they have to put a pancake bearing in it to prevent the clutch ball from welding to the pushrod. I have run Klotz Flex Drive 30 in my bikes for almost 20 years and have never lost a gear, bearing,shift fork, or clutch ball in a total of 7 bikes. It is expensive but I change it every 25-30 hours of riding, I do have an hourmeter on my bike.

Does it actually co into another gear? Or is it just the shifter goes down and comes back up? That is normal for a Banshee, think of the shift lever as a ratchet and the shift drum as what is turned by the ratchet. But the drum has a stop built in and won't let the lever get another bit when it is in first so the lever can go down and back up without actually shifting the drum/gears. Hope this explains it for you.

We ride at sea level and my wife's bike runs Fattys, Toomey 2:1 K&N filter with a 27.5 pilot and 300 mains, her old bike with the same setup ran 290 mains and 27.5 pilot.

1/4 inch is way too much play in your clutch basket, the stock basket is not repairable so you need to get an aftermarket basket and install your gear on it.

WRONG- get a GOOD tester, remove BOTH plugs and kick it till tne needle quits climbing with the throttle wide open. That is how they teach you to do it in mechanics school, at least it was 25 years ago when I went. You also want to make sure the tester has the check valve right at the end of the fitting that screws into the head, as that can affect the reading also.

I looked at CheapCycleParts.com, and they show the same part number for an 87 or a 97.

Yes it is the heat that builds more pressure, not more RPMs, the water pump is not that efficient of a pump that more RPM will build more pressure. A built motor generates more heat, because to make power you burn more fuel and when you burn more fuel you release more energy which is more heat.

I have found that when you have this condition, you need to replace the axle AND the hubs as the splines in all the parts are actually wore. If you replace just the axle or just the hubs you are installing worn parts against new parts which causes premature wear on the new part. My plan of action would be to tighten your axle nuts and run it until the play gets too bad and then replace everything.

Looking at the damage, I would be very susicious about the rod bearing on the crank on the damaged side. Get the cylinder off and see if there is play in that rod. The damage looks alot like when my crank let go. You will probably want to split the cases anyway just to make sure you get all the shrapnel out and to look EVERYTHING over and see what you have. Whatever you do, DO NOT HALFASS it together because it will just bite you later.

87 cases and cranks are the same as all the others, so you can use anything that fits the other years.

Have you removed the park brake wire, it could be moisture in the switch shorting it out and engaging the park brake rev limiter when it is wet. Go to the CDI box plug at the rear of the bike, find the green/yellow wire in the BIKE side of the connector, cut the green/yellow wire off of the bike harness connector( not the CDI box side of the connector). This will remove the park brake rev limiter from the bike and you won't have problems with it shorting to ground when it is wet and engaging the park brake rev limiter.

I would not reuse them- it is worth it for peace of mind.

Why spend the money putting new paddles on old used casings, especially used Skat Trak casings? If they were high quality ATV tire casings it might be justifable, but alot of older Skat Trak tires that were not from the Extreme line were originally buffed off lawn tractor tires. I would just buy new tires and be done with it.