bansheesandrider

If you played with the rod adjustment then that is probably the problem. Try adjusting the rod again, just adjusting it should not screw up the M/C. If you had lines unhooked then you need to bleed it.

Wrong, all Banshee thumb throttles have the TORS switch in them. my 89,96,97 and my friends 87,93,94,95,99, 02s all came with it.

OR buy a shaft and fix it correctly. That way you can pull everything else apart and see what else is about to let go and give you MORE problems!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Remember, your Banshee can travel farther in 1/2 hour than you can walk in a whole day.

i didnt do a leak down test yet. but it leaking on the kicker side wich holds the oil so in my other shees when that seal went out it smoked and kinna leaked oil from the exhaust manifold. so i dont see how it would be lean on that side. This thing has the classic signs of an air leak- you can have a leak on the right side at somewhere OTHER than the crank seal. Head gasket, reed gasket, base gasket, etc. The fact that you MELTED a piston says the you have a lean condition.

X2 on the 2 ounces, that is 64:1. I would at least use 3 ounces, that would put you at 43:1. At 60:1 you probably roasted a piston or rings. Do a leakdown on it before you pull it apart. Did you take the reed cages out of the cylinders, what do the pistons look like?

If it is toed out it will turn better, BUT if it is toed in then it will be more stable and track better at high speed. With the rider's weight on the bike I would set it at 1/16-1/8 toed in.

Yes the air is thinner and that requires less fuel, there is also less atmosheric pressure so the cylinders do not fill as good so you want to squeeze it harder to get maximum Bang out of it. Back in the 40s and 50s they used to offer high altitude pistons for cars, which were what we now call high compression pistons. So yes as your altitude goes up your dome cc's should come down to compensate for the lower atmosheric pressure. If he is actually getting 98 octane fuel he will be fine with that setup.

I would like to know what makes those Namura pitons "high compresion", they look just like the stock pistons to me. They probably call them that becuase your compression goes up when you bore it and install them and end up with a better ring seal. I always thought you could not get high compression pistons for a 2 stroke because when you start changing the piston top to get high compression, you fuck up the port timing in a 2 stroke.

I will ask it the second time, are you checking it on the trigger bumps on the flywheel?

Piston stops are meant to be used to stop the engine in the same position when you turn it clockwise and then counter-clockwise while setting up a degree wheel, That ia the only thing they are for. To keep things from turning you should use a flywheel/ hub holder, or a rag, or the Motion Pro tool that fits between the gears, or if you have to, a penny or some other soft metal. If you are putting metal between the gears, I would not use an impact as it is still possible to break a tooth off.

If you have not had it apart, then yes you probably need new bearings. If you have had it apart, then did you get the collar that the seal rides on below the bearing back in? The nut will tighten up against the shaft but not against the bearing if this collar is missing.

YES

He said the plugs are wet. You might want to make sure your cases and/or pipes are not flooded with fuel. Take the plugs out, turn the bike upside down and roll the engine over with the kicker to see if fuel comes out. When the fuel quits coming out, put the bike right and let it sit for awhile with no plugs to air out. Then install new plugs and see if it will start.

Yes, they are a one time use so you will need to get new ones from Yamaha. They are shown on the same parts diagram as the shift forks and the part number is 90334-10006-00. I have never seen any at the auto parts store that were small enough. If you reuse them and they come out while riding, you will lose your tranny oil and have to haul it back becuase with no oil in the tranny you don't want to tow it and have all the bearings and gears turning without oil. Not worth reusing to save $7.

RM Stators are just as bad as Ricky Stator. I would recomend a used factory stator before I would use a new aftermarket one. The only aftermarket one that I have not heard bad things about is Electrosport/Moose. Does your flywheel rattle at all? If you have good blue spark and it is in time, then you don't have an electrical problem. Have you checked compression and your reeds? Also, have you tried new spark plugs?

NO, don't flip your reeds around. If you turn them around and start flexing them in the opposite direction they will snap off. If they are out of spec, buy new ones.

Nobody uses a timing light because the flywheel is not marked. Yes a Banshee fires both plugs at the same time when 1 piston or the other is at Top Dead Center(and the other piston is at Bottom Dead Center).

If you have spark, why do you think you have an electrical problem? An engine requires 3 things to run- spark, which you have; an air/fuel mixture, did you see if there is fuel in the tank and carbs; and compression, what is yours?

Also check the O ring on the outside of the seat as they get wore down or compressed and then they don't seal the seat to the carb body. Then the fuel runs into the float bowl uncontrolled and out the overflow tubes.

You should be using a digital voltmeter, the voltage coming out of the stator on the ignition circuit probably won't light up a test light but will show on a digital meter set on a sensative setting.

One thing that is never addressed on here as a performance improver is maintainence- make sure everything is adjusted properly and correctly lubed and assembled correctly- including correctly torqued with a torque wrench. That way everything will turn freely and smoothly and it will take less energy to move the bike so it will be faster. Also make sure you use good quality lubricants. If the bike is completely stock and you can only afford 1 mod at a time, I would get a set of pipes first. Then improve your air filter by either going to pods or adding a pro flow adapter and removing the lid from your air box. The next step is to increase your compression by cutting and chambering the stock head or buying a Noss head with replaceable domes, and then bump your timing- this can be done for free if you read the thread on here about modifying you stock timing plate or you can spend $50 for a BILLET plate from Chariot. At this point you are going to want to address some reliability issues- weld your crank, heavier clutch springs, a billet water pump impeller, make sure you kick idler gear bushing is good, etc. You may also want to improve your shifting by grinding the star and/or putting in an easy shift kit. You can also do the FAST mod to the shift shaft( there is a thread for this also). You are also going to want to address the suspension by at least getting better shocks and maybe different control arms and maybe a longer swingarm. While you are in the motor, you may want to port the cylinders-you can port the reed cages also and add better reed petals or you can buy V Force reeds.I would not worry about going to bigger carbs until you have the bike ported. From here you will be looking at strokers and big bores and spending lots of money.

A service manual. That way you can minimize the economic impact of everything in your Banshee future.

It would if it was bad. Just welding a crank does not get rid of any play in it. Welding it is a preventative measure so you don't have trouble down the road.

Because with the timing advanced that much and the compression that high, you are going to have pre-ignition and/or detonaton with pump gas. Race gas has higher octane, which will keep this from happening. Pre=ignition and detonation cause all kinds of problemms: spark plug loosening, holes in pistons, collapsed ring lands, damaged crankshaft bearings, blown head gaskets.

You need to get a TORS delete cable from Motion Pro. The TORS delete cable is different from both the factory thumb throttle cable and the twist throttle cable. It will hook up a stock thumb throttle to the TORS delete carb tops. AND you will have to resync your carbs.