bansheesandrider

The silencers are definetely NOT Toomeys, they look like maybe FMF or Answer. Old Toomeys have nothing on them, T5s were the first to be embossed with an insignia.

There is LSR which is Lone Star Racing, ASR which is American Star Racing, and there is Laeger's. They are 3 seperate companies.

Those are way to narrow to ride sand. Out in the dunes you want a wide tire to stay up on top, not a narrow tire to cut in. I would go with a 21x7-10 or a 22x8-10 on a 5 or 6 inch wide wheel. Also, most spindle mount wheels will be too fragile to dune on because they were cut to weigh a minimal amount and don't have much strength left. Alot of people run a .125 wheel(blue label) but I would recomend a .160 or.190 thick wheel(red or black label), the extra few ounces are weigh more durable and you will have alot less problems with leaks. I went back to the factory wheels on my bike and have had zero problems with leaks since I did it. This has been my expierence after 22 years of riding sand.

If you are going to chrome your frame, you need to have it done by someone who is certified to chrome airplane parts. During the chroming procedure there is a reaction process called Hydrogen Embrittlement that occurs, this will make your frame more prone to cracking. Airplane chromers modify their process to reduce this effect from happening, but it does still occur to a lesser degree. It is also ALOT more expensive than regular chrome. Because of this, I would never buy a used frame that has been chromed, you don't know if it was done right. I would recomend finding a powder color that goes with your color scheme or the so called chrome powder.

Putting bigger carbs and/or intakes on a stock motor will just make it loose bottom end power. When I am improving a Banshee, I recomend these mods in this order: better air filter by putting on pods or Toomey 2:1 setup or adding a Pro Flow plate and a K&N to the stock airbox, pipes, increase compression by cutting stock head or getting a coolhead, bumping the timing by modifying the stock timing plate or buying a plate from Chariot,The next step would be reeds-either get your stock cages ported and put Boyesen petals on them or go for some VForce 3s. Now you are ready for a port job to match your riding style and where you ride. Now you can think about bigger carbs- I bored my stockers out to 28mm and jetted accordingly, this lets me find parts or jets at ANY dealer or ATV shop because stock jets, parts, and cables will fit. OR, you could buy some 28 or 33 carbs. In my list with more than one way to do things I listed the least expensive way to do it first. Before you port your cylinders, you are going to want to address some reliability issues- weld the crank, mod the shift star, billet impeller, heavier clutch springs, maybe a shift shaft mod, make sure your kick idler gear is tight, etc. At some piont you will want to address suspension also- at least shocks and maybe a longer swingarm and different control arms.

Was the crank welded? Do you store the bike where it is dry or does it sit out in the rain? What oil do you run and at what mix? Do you do any maintenence or do you abuse it? Bottom line is we need more info to help you.

Is the stop on the frame bent or wore? This is a common problem with Banshees. The stop should be perpendicular to the bearing hole. Most guy straighten it and weld in a gusset before they powdercoat their frame.

I guess this reinforces my point that just because you are a sponsor here doesn't mean that it is the only godd place to have work done. Hopefully now that Trinity is a sponsor they will step up and help some of the unhappy members on here solve their problems.

Technically they are metric. I would just go to a auto parts or hardware store or even Harbor Freight and buy a pre-packaged assortment.

It is a special nut with a relief cut into the back side. If you don't run the factory nut AND lockwasher you will have more and possibly bigger problems down the road. Get a new one from your dealer or buy some used ones from NYUK and you will have an extra.

X2, this stuff is the way to go, been running it for 15+ years with no problems.

There is no oil in the crankcase, it is a 2 stroke. The TRANNY oil should be on the full line on the dipstick with the dipstick sitting on thetop of the hole, NOT SCREWED IN. You should use a GOOD 2 stroke gear box oil, such as Klotz Flex Drive 30, in the tranny. It will pay off in trhe long run by giving you longer life from your gears, bearings and shift forks. I have used it for 15 years in a total of 5 Banshees, 2 Blasters and have never had a failure, not even a welded clutch ball(no pancake bearing). The reason I started using it is that it makes the bike shift better, but it is a better lubricant than motor oil, ATF, or even other gearbox oils.

OR change the bulbs to 35 watt ones!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

J arm bikes are from 87 through 1990 and A arms started in 1991. The early brakes are from 87 to 89 and they went to the new style brakes on the 1990 models, thus a 1990 has late brakes with J arms, 1 year only. As for changes to the A arm frame the only change might be the bracket for the rear brake light switch.

The reason I went to the Flex Drive is it makes the bike shift so much better, but I have never lost a bearing, gear, shift fork, or had a clutch ball weld(no pancake bearings) on me in my 3 Banshees, or the 3 or 4 others of my friends that use it. Haven't had any cluych problems either and everything looks like new when I open it up. Oil is cheaper than parts and easier than walking or towing back to camp.

Running a Banshee motor backwards will damage it, it puts the side load of the primary gear in the opposite direction where there are no thrust sufaces to load against, this leads to broken clutch covers and other problems. Also, if the kick gear hangs up at all it can break the main cases. If it is running backwards, shut it down immediately.

If you Google "Banshee service manual" there should be a PDF file that comes up of the factory service manual, it will cover ALL years. Then you should be able to save it on your computer and print what you need.

Are you sure the key is installed properly_ some times they slip out of position when you slide the flywheel on and then it will be out of time.

You will be able tell you need a top end job by the compression- when it gets below 110 psi, it is time for a rebuild. I recomend using Klotz R50 oil mixed with premium gas at 40:1. I also recomend Klotz Flex Drive 30(part number KL506) in the tranny. Get yourself a service manual and read it, also start reading the technical info and pinned threads on this website and you will get a better idea of what is going on with your Banshee and the things you need to look for, and what maintenance and repairs need to be done and when to do it.

Yes, unless you see something wrong with the hoses they should be OK. My 89 still has the original hoses on it, Yamaha makes good hoses and seals. You don't need the magnetic plug as most of what will be in the oil is clutch plate material that is non-magnetic. If you have metal in the oil, a magnetic plug is not going to save anything. Lightened flywheels are great if you are a light rider on a drag bike, but if you are not a light guy or you use the bike for anything else you want the heavy flywheel so the bike will not die if you get off the powerband. What do the chain and sprockets look like? And the one thing everybody should buy for their Banshee is a service manual.

What's been converted?????????????????? Black plugs mean you are rich, however with pipes on it you should need bigger jets than 240s unless you are at high altitude.

Did you remove the stator?

They are almost new and he is selling them, what does that tell you? You would be much better with some haulers, the AMS, or some ITP paddles, in that order!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

AS long as the black box under the fuel tank is unplugged, you don't have to worry about unplugging ANYTHING else. Yes it is called a choke tube and it connects the choke in the left carb to the right carb for starting, it is a black hose inline with the choke knob in between the 2 carbs. If it is not there, you have an air leak that causes rideability problems and will damage your engine.

Yes, that would probably work but I don't think it is ideal. You want a sealed Absorbed Glas Mat(AGM) battery so it doesn't leak acid everywhere if you crash.