bansheesandrider

It is 100 percent rider preference. I used to think if you learned to ride on a motorcycle like I did you would prefer a twist and if you learned to ride on an ATV then you would prefer a thmb throttle. But there are several guys on here that ride both and prefer a thumb throttle on their ATV. Alot of it depends on your riding style and arm strength. Some people roll their wrist when riding whoops and that results in grabbing a handful of throttle with a twist. All that being said, when I put a twist on my daughter's Blaster( she was 12 at the time and had only ridden with a thumb to that point), she went from having to stop every 10 minutes to riding for an hour with out stopping and she has not had a problem in the 10+ years since. My wife and I both prefer a twist(we ride dunes) but there will be plenty of people on here that will say don't do it. All you can do is try it and see if it works for you, if it doesn't you can change it back.

ALL Banshees came from the factory with a key switch, and for that matter with TORS. If it did not have a key switch, then it was a dealer mod. My father in law bought a Banshee from Bay Area Yamaha and they unplugged the TORS before the sold it to him. What wire(s) exactly do you have the toggle switch hooked into? What is the Red/Black wire in the harness connected to? What is the Black/White wire connected to? Is the TORS system still there? Did you buy a harness for a 2002 or is it from some other year? Was it a brand new harness from a dealer or some hacked on POS from Ebay?

I would have the stock crank welded, because stock stroke cranks from Hot Rods do not come welded so you would still need to get it trued and welded. The only problem with a stoch crank is that the press fit is not tight enough and eventually the crank starts spreading apart. When it does that, the thrust washers and needle bearings get damaged and then the pieces go through the motor and tear up all kinds of parts. When my bike was stock except for a set of pipes the crank let go and it cost me over $700 to fix it. As long as you stay with the stock stroke and a bore of less than 66mm, you can port, bump timing and compression, add reeds, bigger carbs, pipes and even run small amounts of nitrous on a stock crank that is in good shape and trued and weldede with no problems.

I have bought 4 Banshees new and 1 Blaster new , plus my riding buddie have bought at least 4 other Banshees new and EVERY one of them had a master link. The non masterlinkk chains usually come on streetbikes.

It does if they have been cut, I just took a set of cut T3s off my wifes bike because she wanted more bottom and mid power.

Is the basket grooved? Did you have the pressure plate aligned properly with the hub? I recomend using a quality clutch set with good heavy springs and Klotz Flex Drive 30 tranny oil.

A helmet is design to break in a crash so your head doesn't. You need to just step up and BUY a new hemet and quite trying to blame the manufacturer foe a faulty product, which it wasn't. That is what warranties are for- faulty products.

Or even better oil from Rocky Mt.- 1 gallon of Klotz R 50 for $39.99

EVERY STOCK Banshee chain I have seen in 22 years has a master link. His post count says he is new here so never assume anything.

He listed FMF Fattys.

Make sure you do 1 carb at a time as you don't want to get the float bowl on the wrong carb. Also, make sure the Oring that seals the seat to the carb is good and is a snug fit when you put the seat in the carb body.

Why go to all that work with a chainbreaker or grinder or sawzall, just find the master link and pop it apart. If I have to shorten the new chain, I usually use a grinder and a hammer & chisel to get rid of the excess.

Send your stock bolts to a chromer, thats what I did and that is what Cascade does. They use Oregon Plating.

Mine is spliced into the wire from the stator to the light switch, works perfect.

With a drill and an E Z Out. Odds are you will ruin the hub because it is soft aluminum and the screw is harder steel. You could take it to a machine shop, but by the time you pay them, you could probably just buy a new one. Depending on how flat it broke and how good you are with a center punch, if you are very careful you should be able to drill it and extract it. Make sure you use the correct special screws from Yamaha and I would STRONGLY recomend a torque wrench when you put it back together. Good luck.

BULLSHIT!!!!!!!!! to do it correctly you have to split the cases because there is a rib on the outside of the seal that fits in a groove in the cases. You can pull the seal out with screws and clean out the rubber from the groove, but there are only 2 ways to get the seal back in- split the cases and do it right, or grind the rib off the new seal and coat it with Yamabond and drive it in. The second method should only be used in an emergency to get through a riding trip.

Yes it goes away when you properly tighten the nuts, but you don't want to tighten it the way the service manual says. You have to adjust the preload on tapered bearings and the stock method will put WAY TOO MUCH preload on them. FYI, tapered bearings are alot more durable than the stock setup- when I was running the stock setup I was replacing my bearings every 12 -18 months. Since I went to the tapered setup, I have not replaced them in 10 years. I just give them a shot of grease after washing the bike and occasionally adjust them. Plus I can get bearings at NAPA because older Dodge 3/4 ton 4X4s use the same bearing.

If your bearing is bad, I would send the whole crank to be rebuilt. I would not take a chance on the other bearings- you don't know how wore they are or how much shrapnel has gone through them. If it is an outer bearing, you can just pull it off the crank and press on a new one aftyer splitting the cases to get the crank out. Twister should be able to rebuild it and true and weld it for around $350 plus shipping and they do great work.

No matter how it was hooked up, I had problems with mine. I actually took the bike to Trail Tech's service dept and they tried every method and trick they knew of. In the end they were baffled, I even had the guy that designed the unit working on it, so they gave me a Vector and some other goodies and let me keep the Vapor. Someday when I get time I want to try the Vapor on the wifes bike. My temp works great and so does the speedo once you get the right number loaded into the unit. I used their base number and checked it with my GPS and had to change once, I got lucky. It is similar to calibrating any other electric speedo.

JP Racing was the original owner of the Axcaliber Axle name. But after they filed bankruptcy once and were on the verge of going under again, they got bought out by Lonestar. However, Lonestar will not warranty a JP axle, they will only warranty ones with a Lonestar(LS-xxx) serial number. I had a JP Racing swingarm on my bike but had alot of problems with it cracking, even after it was repaird by a certified structural welder. I would recomend getting a G-Force if you are on a budget or if you want to go top of the line go Lonestar.

Make sure you use resistor plugs with it. I never could get my Vapor to work right on my Banshee, Trail Tech could not even get it to work right. I took my bike to them twice and they ended up giving me a Vector instead- same thing without the tach. I decided it was to hard to read the tach when I was tearing up the dunes and after riding it for 15 years, I probably knew when to shift without a tach.

Probably not, I think the recess where the bearing sits in the carrier is machined deeper that a stock type carrier because tapered bearings are taller. Therefore the spacer between the bearings will be to long.

Do you have a Pro Flow adapter on it? You do know that the lid is what holds the filter in place and if you are not running the lid or a Pro Flow adapter that not only is your filter getting wet, but dirt is getting in your engine. Remove the snorkel from the lid and drill some holes in it and install the air box vents. Or if you have a Pro Flow adapter, there is a waterproof cover for the airbox that is made out of material similar to Outerwears, check with Outerwears or K&N for it.

How did you come up with that number, by measuring? What did you use to measure? If you are repacing the pistons you should probably bore it also so everything has the proper clearances and the rings seat properly. But with that measurement, you might already be at 66mm. If you clean the piston tops, there should be a size marked on them.

You should really step up and buy a new countershaft, but if you HAVE to mickey mouse it here is what I would do. Blaster sprockets are the same size and spline, but are held on with a retainer that bolts to the sprocket. The retainer slips onto the splines and then you torn it till the bolt holes line up and bolt it to the sprocket. The bad part of this is that when you turn it, there needs to be a groove in the countershaft to let it turn. To solve this I wouldfigure out a way to cut the groove in the shaft- the best way would be to take it out and do it in a lathe, but then you might as well just replace it. Second choice would be to use a file or hacksaw to cut a groove, but I don't know if the shaft is too hard to do it that way. Third choice and the way you will probably have to go is to use a cut off wheel in a die grinder, you will probably need to wrap the shaft with tape so yuo get a nice straight groove all the way around in the right location to keep the sprocket where it needs to be. Also, use a pretty yhin cut off wheel so the groove does not get to wide. Good luck! BEFORE you do that, you might see if you can find a rethreader die and straighten out the threads on the shaft, if they are not to far gone, and then make sure you use a Yamaha not, not some hardware store nut.